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THE 



STM^MGEK IM FRJLJVGf % 



OR, 



A TOUR 



DEVONSHIRE TO PARIS. 



BY 



JOHN CARR, Esq. 



BALTIMORE: 

PRINTED FOR G. HILL, NO. 104, BALTIMORE STEEETj 
By JOHN WEST BUTLER, SOUTH GAY STREET. 

1805. 



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'jQJiy iV&SI SUTLER^ FfilNTEM. 







1 HE little Tour which gave birth to the 
following remarks, was taken immediately 
after the exchange of the ratifications of a 
peace, necessary, but not inglorious to my 
country, after a contest unexampled in its 
cause, calamity, extension, vicissitudes and 
glory ; amidst a people, who, under the in- 
fluence of a political change, hitherto unpa- 
ralleled, were to be approached as an order of 
beings exhibiting a moral and political form 
before but little known to themselves and to 
the world, in the abrupt removal of habits 
and sentiments, which had silently and unin- 
terruptedly taken deep root in the soil of ages. 

During a separation of ten years, we have 
received very little account of this extraordi- 
nary people, which could be relied upon. 
Dissimilar sensations, excited by their prin- 
ciples and proceedings, ever partially and 
irregularly known, have depicted unaccord- 
ing representations of them, and, in the 
sequel, have exhibited rather a high-coloured 
fanciful delineation, than a plain and faithful 



iv .PIl.EFA;eE. j 

resemblance cJf tlTe^origTRaL. . Many are the 
persons v\ ho have beeii thas^jJiigied. 

These fugitive sketches, in which an at- 
tempt is made to dehneate, just as they oc- 
curred, those scenes, v^^hich, to mij mind at 
least, v^^ere new and interesting;, were ori«;i- 
naJly penned for the private perusal of those 
whom 1 esteem ; and by their persuasion 
they are now offered to the public eye. 
Amongst them I must be permitted to in- 
dulge in the pride and pleasure of enumera- 
ting William liayley, Esq. a name flimiliar 
and dear to every elegant and polished mind. 
Enhghtened by his emendations, and sup- 
ported by the cherishing spirit of his appro- 
val, I approach, with a more subdued appre- 
hension, the tribunal of public opinion ; and 
to my friends I dedicate this humble result 
of a short relaxation from the duties of an 
anxious and laborious profession. If, by 
submittino' to their wishes, I have erred, I 
have only to offer, that it is my first, and 
shall be my last offence. 

JOHN CARR. 

TOTNES, August^ 180?. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Torr Ahhev. — Cap of Vhcrtv. — Anecdote ofEn^lUh Preju- 
clue. — File Ships. — Suuthatnpton River. — Netleji Ad-' 
dej/. --------- page 9 

CHAPTER II. 

Fi-enrh Emlprants, — Scene on the Quay of Southaivptcm.—^ 
Sail for Havre . — Acred Fre7?eh Priest. — Their respect ff^j/e 
Co)idmt in F.ncr\ind. — Their Gratitude. — Make the Port 
of Havre. — Panic of the Ev/i^rauts. — Landiv^ described. — ' 
Hold de La Faix. — Brtalfa.it Knife, — Municipaliii/. p. 1 4, 

CHAPTER in. 

Passports procured. — Coins. — Toum of Havre. — Carts. — 
Citoi/en. — Hot! f cur. — Deserters. — Prefect de Marine.—^ 
Vn'/e de Sand-wieh.' — French Farmers. — Sir Sidney Smith. 
' — Catherine de Medicis. — Light Hua-'ics. — Rafh, p. 28 

CHAPTER IV. 

Cheap traveUincr to Paris. — Diligences. — French Postilions, 

— Spanish Postilions. — Norman Horses. — Hclbec. — Na- 

tildes of Cnuu. — Ivetot.'— Return of Religion. — Santerre. 

^'-—Jacobin. — The Mustard-put. — Kaiioiiat Property, p. 39 

CHAPTER V. 

A Fenmte French fib. — Military and Civil Procession. — Ma- 
dame G ' — The Review. — Mons. I' Abbe — Bridge of 

Boats. — The Quay. — Exchange. — Theatre. — Rouen. — 
Cathedral, — St. Ouens^ — Prince of iValdec.—Maid of 
Orleans. -- -- -- -- p. 43 



vi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

First ComuVs AdvertisetnenL — Something ?ndf'cuIom.<—Eggs* 
— Crinihwl MUitari/ TnbunaL — French Ftmale Confidence^ 
— Toxvn House. — Convent of Jesuita.— 'Guillotine, — Gjv- 
ernor IV . - - - _ - - _ p, 58 

CHAPTER VH. 

Filial P/etu, — St. Caiherine^s Mount. — -Madame Phillope.>— 
Gc^neral RnJ/iu^s Trumpet.' — Gentroaity ^ — Love Infectioua, 
-"Masons and Gardeners. - - - - - P« 70 

CHAPTER YIIL 

Earh/ dinner. — Mante. — Frost. — Duke de Sully > — Approach 
the- Capiial. — Norman Barrier. — Pons.-'— Hotel de Rouen, 
— Palais Royal. - - - - - - -p. 80 

CHAPTER TX. 

French Reception. — Voltaire. — Restaurateur. — Consular 
Guard. — Music. — Pcfefian Horses. — Gates of the Palace. 
— Gardens of the Thuilleries. — Sfafuts. — The faithful 
Vase. — The Sabine P niure.-^Monsieur Perreoaux.—-' 
Mnrquis de Chatelet. — Madame Perregaur, — Beaux and 
Belles of Paris, - - - - - - - p. 87 

CHAPTER X. 

harsje Dogs — A Plan for becoming quickh; acquainted 'with 
Paris.— Panfheon — Tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau. — 
Pobteiress of an Emigrant., — The Beauff/ of France. — 
Bcaufi/ evanescent.— -P/ace de Carousel. — •Infernal Machine. 
- — F.ruche. — Seine.'— Washei'women. — Ftsh-uwinen. — 
Baths. -----_--« p. 98 

CHAPTER XL. 

David. — Place de la Concord. — U Eglise de Madeleine. — 
Print-shops. — Notre Dame. — Musemn, or Palace of Arts, 
>—'HqU of Statues. — Laocoon. — Selvidere Apollo. — Socra- 
tes, - p. 10?) 



CONTENTS. vii 

CHAPTER XII. 

Bonaparte. — ArtWery. — A//-, Pitt.—- Newspapers,— ^ Arch-' 
bishop of Paris. — Consular Colours. — Religion. — Consular 
Conversion. — Madatne Bonaparte. — Consular Alodest// .—' 
Separate beds. — A Country Scene. — Connubial Affection, 
' — Female Bravery, - - - - - - p. 121 

CHAPTER XlTl. 

Breakfast. — Warmth of French Expression . — Rustic Elo" 
guence. — Curious cause assigned fo/- the late extraordinary 
Frost. — Madame R. — Paul I. — Tivoli. — Frestati. p. 136 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Convent of Blue Nuns. — Duchesse de Biron. — The bloody Key, 
—Court s of Justice. — Public Library .— G obeli nes. — Miss 
Linwood. — Garden of Plants, — French Accommodation .—• 
Boot Cleaners. — Cat and Dog Shearers, — Monsieur S • 
and Family, -- - -- - --p. 143 

CHAPTER XV. 

Civility of a Sentinel. — The Hall of the Legislative Assemhh, 

— British House of Commons. — Captain Bergeret. — The 

Temple. — Sir Sidney Smithes Escape. — Colonel PhiUi-^ 

peaiix, -- -- -- -- p. 158 

CHAPTEU XVI. ^ 

A Jashionahle Poem. — Frere Richart. — Religion. — Hotel des 
Jnvalides. — Hall of Victory. — Enemies'* Colours, — Sulky 
Appearance of an English Jack and Ensign. — hidccorum, 
—The acred Captai'i. — Military School. — Cha?np de Mars, 
• — The Garden of Mousseaux, - - - - p. 1 70 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Curious Method of raising Hay- — Lurien Bonaparte^ s Hotel, 
—Oi)era. — Consular Box. — Madame Bonaparte^- Box.— 
Feudeau Tlieafrt. — 6r//f- Vue,— Versailles.— The Palace 
of the Petit Trianoiw—Tnti Grounds, - - p. 183 



viii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Bonaparte'* s Talents in Finance, — Garrick and the Madman* 
Palace of the Conservative Senate, — Process of transferring 
Oil Paintings from Wotsdto Canvas. — T/ie Dinner Knife,-—- 
Commoditcs. — Hall of the National Convention,' — T/ie 
Minister Taliej/rand^s Levee, - - - - p. I96 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The College of the Deaf and Dum^j,—- Abh^ Sicard, — Baga^ 
telle. — Police. — Grand National Librari/. — Bonaparte^ s 
Review,. — Tambour Major of the Consular Regiment.—* 
Restoration of Artillerij Colours, - - - p. ^09 

CHAPTER XX. 

Abbe Siei/es. — Consular Procession to the Council Chamber,"-^ 
10th of August^ 17!:)2. — Celerity ofMons, Fouche^s Injor" 
mation, — The txoo Lovers. — Cabinet of Mons, le Grand.^—> 
Self-prescribing Physician. — Bust of Robespierre. — His 
Lods:ings,—Corn Hall. — Museum of French Monuments, 
'"^Revolutionary Agents. — Lovers of married women . p. 222 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Picturesque and Mechanical Theatre,— -Filtrating and purify-^ 
ing Vases. — English Jacobins. — A Farewell. — Messa* 
gerie, — Mai Maison. — Forest of Evreux. — Loxver Nor- 
mandy.'— Caen. — Hon, T, Erskine. — -A Ball. — The Keeper 
of the Saehrist^i/ of Notre Dame, — The two blind Beggars, 
Ennui, — St, Lo, — Cherbourg. — England, - p. 238 

GENERAL REMARKS. « . - - p. 260 



THE 

STE^IMGEU IN FRANCE, 



CHAPTER. I. 

^Torr Ahhe?/,' — Cap of Liberty. — Anecdote of English Prefw 
dice . — Fire S/iips, — Southampton River. — Netley Abbey » 

XT was a circumstance wbich will be memorable with, 
me as long as I live, and pleasant to my feelings as often a& 
I recur to it, that part of my intended excursion to the Con- 
tinent, was performed in the last ship of war, which, after 
the formal confirmations of the peace, remained, of that vast 
naval armament, which, from the heights of Torbay, for so 
many years, presented to the astonished and admiring eye, a 
spectacle at once of picturesque beautj^, and national glory. 
It was the last attendant in the train of retiring war. 

Under the charming roof of Torr Abbey, the residence 
of George Gary, Esq. I passed a few days, until the Mega:ra 
was ready to sail for Portsmouth, to be paid off", the com- 
mander of which. Captain Newhouse, very politely offered 
to convey my companion. Captain W. Cary, and myself, 
to that port. 

In this beautiful spot, the gallant heroes of our navy 
have often found the severe and perilous duties of the 
boisterous element, alleviated b}'' attentions, which, in their 
splendid and cordial display, united an elegant taste to 
a nobie spirit of hospitality. 

B 



10 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

TORR ABBEY. -^CAP OF LIBERTY. 

In the Harleian Tracts, there Is a short, but rather 
eurious account preserved, of the sensation produced at 
the Abbey on the 5th of November, 1633, after the 
Prince of Orange had entered the bay with his fleet, orl 
their passage to Brixham, where he landed : 

'* The Prince commanded Captain M , to search 

*' the Lady Gary's house, at Torr Abbey, for arms 
♦* and horses. The lady entertaining them civilly, said 
** her husband was gone to Plymouth. They brought 
" from thence some horses, and a few arms, but gave 
*' no further disturbance to the lady or her house." 

Throughout this embarrassing interview, the Lady Gary 
appears to have conducted herself with great temper, dig- 
nity and resolution, whilst, on the other hand, the chaplain 
of that day, whose opinions were not very favourable to 
the revolution, unlike his present amiable and enlightened 
successor*, left his lady in the midst of her perplexities, 
and fled. 

In the Abbey, I was much pleased with an inter- 
esting though not very ornamental trophy of the glorious 
victory of Abouklr. The truckle -heads of the masts 
of the Aqullon, a French ship of the line, which struck 
to the brave Gaptain Louis, in that ever memorable bat- 
tle, were covered with the bonnet rouge ; One of these 
caps of liberty, surmounted with the British flag, has 
been committed to the care of the family, by that herold 
commander, and now constitutes a temporary ornament 
^i theii" diuing-room. 

* Reverend John HalforcJ. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 11 



ANUCDOIE OF ENGLISH PREJUDICE. FIRE SKIPS. 

Here we laid in provision for our little voyage, with- 
out, however, feeling the same apprehension which agita- 
ted the mind of a fair damsel, in the service of a lady of 
rank who formerly resided in my neighbourhood, who, 
preparing to attend her mistress to the Continent, and 
having heard from the jolly historians of the kitchen, that 
the food in France was chiefly supplied by the croaking 
inhabitants of the green and standing pool, contrived, very 
carefully, to carry over a piece of homebred pork, conceal- 
ed in her w^ork-bag. 

Early in the morning after we set sail, we passed 
through the Needles, v/hich saved us a very considerable 
circuitous sail round the southern side of the Isle of Wight, 
a passage which the late Admiral Macbride first success- 
fully attempted, for vessels of war, in a ship of the line. 

The vessel, in which we sailed, was a fireship ; a 
costly instrument of destruction, wdiich has never been ap- 
plied during the recent w^ar, and only once, and that 
unsuccessfully, during the preceding one. We had seve- 
ral of them in commission, although they are confessedly 
of little utility in these times, and from the immense stores 
of combustibles with which they are charged, threaten 
only peiil to the commander and his crew. 

We soon after dropped anchor, and proceeded to 
Portsmouth, in search of a packet for Havre-de-Grace. 
In the street, our trunks were seized by the custom-house 
officers, whilst conveying to the inn ; but, after presenting 
our keys, and requesting immediate search and restoration,, 
they v/ere returned to us without any further annoyance.. 



19 THE STRANGER IN :FRANCE, 



SOUTHAMPTON RIVER NEILILY ABBEY. 



Finding that the masters of the French packets were 
undetermined when they should sail, we resolved upon 
immediately leaving this celebrated sea-port, and proceed- 
ing by water to Southampton, distant about twenty-four 
miles ; whei'e, after a very unpleasant passage, from its 
blowing with considerable violence soon after we left 
Portsmouth, we arrived, in a little wherrj^, about twelve 
o'clock at night, at the Vine inn, which is very conve- 
niently situated for passengers by the packets. 

It will be not required of me, to attempt a minute 
description of the Southampton river, at a time when I 
expected, with some reason, as I afterwards understood, 
to sink to the bottom of it. An observation very natural, 
to pel sons in our situation, occurred to me all the w^ay, viz, 
that the shores seemed to be too far distant from each other, 
and that had there been less water, the scenery would have 
been more delightful ; an observation which, however, the 
next day confirmed, when it presented the Sufe and tranquil 
appearance of a mirror. 

Finding that the packet for France was not likely to sail 
immediately, we hired a boat, and proceeded down the river, 
to view the beautiful ruins of Netley Abbey, in the great 
court of which we dined, under the shade of aged limes, and 
amidst the , flappings of its feathered and restless tenantry. 

As I am no great admirer of tedious details, I shall not 
attempt an antiquarian history of this delightful spot. I 
shall leave it to more circumstantial travellers, to enumerate 
the genealogies of the worthies who occupied it at various 
^ras, and to relatej like a monumental entablature, when. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 13 

NETLEY ABBEY. 

■where, and how they lived and died ; it will be sufficient 
to observe, that the site of this romantic abode was granted 
by Henry VIII. in 1757, to a Sir William Poulet, and 
that, after having had many merry monks for its masters, 
who, no doubt, performed their maiutince laudes and noc^ 
turnce vigilicB with devout exactness ; that it is, at length, 
in the possession of Mr, Dance, who has a very fine and 
picturesque estate on that side of the river, of which these 
elegant ruins constitute the chief ornament. The church 
still exhibits a beautiful specimen of gothic architecture, 
but its tottering remains will rapidly share the fate of the 
neighbouring pile, which time has prostrated on the earth, 
and covered with his thickest shade of ivy. 

Our watermen gave us a curious description of this place, 
and amused us not a little with their ridiculous anacronisms, 

" I tell you what," said one of them, contradicting 
" the other, *' you are in the wrong, Bob, indeed you are 
" wrong, don't mislead them gentlemen ; that there Abbey 
"is in the true Roman style, and was built by a man they 

*' call ; but that's neither here nor there, I 

** forget the name ; however, its a line place, and univer- 
** sally allowed to be very old. I frequently rows gentle- 
*' folks there, and picks up a great deal about it." 

On our return the tide was at its height, the sun was 
setting in glory, the sky and water seemed blended in each 
other, the same red rich tint reigned throughout ; the ves- 
sels at anchor appeared suspended in the air, the spires of 
the churches were tipped with the golden ray ; a scene of 
more beauty, richness, and tranquillity I never beheld. 



14 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER II. 

French Emigirtnts.— Scene on the Quay of Southampton^ — ■ 
Sail for Havre. — Aged French Priest. — Their respectable 
conduct in England. — Their Gratitude. — Make the Port 
of Havre. — Panic of the Emigrants. — Landing descri-i 
led. — Hotel de la Paix.- — Breakfast knife. — Municipality. 



Di 



URING the whole of the second day after our arrival, 
the town of Southampton was in a bustle, occasioned by the 
fiocking in of a great number of French emigrants, who were 
returning to their own courtry, in consequence of a mild 
decree, which had been passed in their favour. The scene 
was truly interesting, and the sentiment which it excited, 
delightful to the heart. 

A respectable Cure, who dined in the same room with 
lis at our inn, was observed to eat very little ; upon being 
pressed to enlarge his meal, this amiable man said, with tears 
starting in bis eyes, " Alas ! I have no appetite ; a very 
*' short time will bring me amongst the scenes of my na- 
** tivity, rny youth, and my happiness, from which a re- 
*' morseless revolution has parted me for these ten long 
** years ; I shall ask for those who are dear to me, and find 
*' them for ever gone. Those v/ho are left will fill my mind 
*' with the most afflicting descriptions : No, no, I cannot 
"eat, my good Sir." 

About noon, they had deposited their baggage upon the 
quaj^, which formed a pile of aged portmanteaus, and battered 
trunks. Parties'remained to protect them, previous to their 
embarkation. The sun was intensely hot, they were seat-. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 15 



FRliNCH EMIGRANTS. 



ed under the shade of old umbrellas, which looked as if they 
had been the companions of their banishment. 

Their countenances appeared strongly marked with the 
pious character of resignation, over which were to be seen 
a sweetness, and corrected animation, which seemed to de- 
pict at once the soul's delight, of returning to its native 
home, planted wherever it may be, and the regret of leaving 
a nation, which in the hour of flight and misery, had nobly 
enrolled them in the list of her own children, and had cov- 
ered them with protection. 

To the eternal honour of these unhappy, but excellent 
people, be it said, that they have proved themselves wor- 
thy of being received in such a sanctuarj^ Our country 
has enjoyed the benefit of their unblemished morals, and 
their mild, polite, and unassuming manners, and wherever 
destiny has placed them, they have industriously relieved the 
national burden of their support, by diffusing the knowledge 
of a language, which good sense, and common interest, 
should long since have considered as a valuable branch of 
education. 

To those of my friends, who exercise the sacred func- 
tions of religion, as established in this country, I need not 
offer an apology, for paying an humble tribute of common 
justice to these good, and persecuted men ; who, from ha- 
bit, pursue a mode of w^orship, a little differing in form, but 
terminating in the same great and glorious Centre. The 
enlightened liberality of the British clergy, will unite in 
paying that homage to them, which the}^, in my presence, 
have often, with enthusiasm and rapture, offered up to the 



16 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

SCliNE ON THE QUAY AT SOUTHAMPTON. 

purity, and sanctity of their characters. Many of them in- 
formed me, that they had received the most serviceable fa- 
vours from our clergy, administered with equal delicacy 
and munificence. 

Amongst these groups were some females, the wives 
and .daughters of Toulonese merchants, who left their city 
when Lord Hood abandoned that port. The politeness and 
attention which were paid to them by the men, were truly 
pleasing. It was the good breeding of elegant habits, re- 
taining all their softness in the midst of adversity, sweeten- 
ed with the sympathy of mutual and similar sufferings. 

They had finished their dinner,, and were drinking their 
favorite beverage of coffee. Poor wanderers ! the water 
was scarcely turned brown v/ith the few grains which re- 
mained of what they had purchased for their journey. 

I addressed them, by telling them, that I had the hap- 
piness of beincr a passenger with them, in the same vessel ; 
they said they were fortunate to have in their company- 
one of that nation, which would be dear to them as long as 
they lived. A genteel middle-aged woman offered to open 
a little parcel of fresh coffee, which they had purchased in the 
town for the voyage, and begged to make some for me. 
By her manner, she seemed to wish me to consider it, more 
as the humble offering of gratitude, than of politeness, or 
perhaps both were blended in the offer. In the afternoon, 
their baggage was searched by the revenue ofncers, who, 
on this occasion, exercised a liberal gentleness, which gave 
but little trouble, and no pain. They who brought noth- 
ing into a countr}^ but the recollection of th?ir miseries. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. I7. 

SAIL FOR HAVRE.— AGED FRENCH PRIEST. 

were not very likely to carry much out of it but the re- 
membrance of its generosity. 

At seven o'clock in the evening we were all on board, 
and sailed with a gentle breeze down the river : we carried 
with us a good stock of vegetables, which we procured 
fresh, from the admimble market of Southampton. Upon 
going down into the cabin, I was struck, and at first shock- 
ed, with seeing a very aged man, stretched at his length up- 
on pillows and clothes, placed on the floor, attended by two 
clergymen, and some women, who, in their attentions to 
this apparently dying old gentleman, seemed to have forgot- 
ten their own comfortless situation, arising from so many 
persons being crowded in so small a space, for our numbers 
above and below amounted to shty. Upon inquiry, they 
informed me, that the person whose appearance had so af- 
fected me, had been a clergyman of great repute and esteem 
at Havre, that he was then past the age of ninety-five years^ 
scarcely expected to survive our short voyage, but was anx- 
ious to breathie his last in his own country. They spoke of 
him, as a man, who, in other times, and in the fulness of his 
faculties, had often from his pulpit, struck with terror and 
contrition, the trembling souls of his auditors, by the force 
of his exalted eloquence ; who had embellished the society 
in which he moved, with his elegant attainments ; and who 
had relieved the unhappy, with an enlarged heart and mu- 
nificient hand — A mere mass of misery, and helpless infirmi- 
ties, remained of all these noble qualities ! 

During the early part of the night, we made but little 
way ; behind, the dark shadowy line of land faded in mist ; 

C 



18 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



CONDUCT OF FRENCH EMIGRANTS. — THEIR GRATITUDE. 

before us, the moon spread a stream of silver light upon 
the sea. The soft stillness of this repose of nature was bro- 
ken only by the rippling of the light wave against the head 
and sides of the vessel, and by the whistling of the helmsman, 
who, with the helm between his knees, and his arms cross- 
ed, alternately w^atchlng the compass and the sail, thus in- 
Toked the presence of the favouring breeze. 

Leaving him, and some few of our unfortunate com- 
rades, to whom the motion of the sea was more novel than 
gratifying, we descended into the steerage, (for our births 
in the cabin were completely occupied by females.) As we 
were going down the ladder, the appearance of so many 
recumbent persons, faintly distinguishable by the light of a 
solitary taper, reminded us of a floating catacomb ; here, 
crawling under a cot which contained two very corpulent 
priests, upon a spare cable, wrapt up in our great coats, we 
resigned ourselves to rest. 

The next day, without having made much progress In 
our little voyage, we arose, and assembled round the com- 
panion, which formed our breakfast table ; at dinner, we 
were enabled to spread a handsome table of refreshments, to 
which we invited all our fellow passengers who were capa- 
ble of partaking of them, many of whom were preparing to 
take their scanty meal, removed from us at the head of the 
vessel. For this little act of common civility, we were af- 
terwards abundantly repaid, by the thankfulness of all, and 
the serviceable attentions of some of our charminsf oruests, 
when we landed ; an instance of which 1 shall afterwards 
have occasion to mention. The wind slackened during the 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. lO 

MAKE THE FORT OF HAVRE. PANIC OF THE EMIGRANTS. 

day, but in the evening it blew rather fresh, and about nine 
o'clock the next morning, after a night passed something in 
the same way as the former, we were awakened by being 
informed that we were within a league of Havre ; ntws by 
no means disagreeable, after the dead dullness of a sea calm. 

The appearance of the coast was high, rugged and 
rocky ; to use a good marine expression, it looked iron- 
bound all along shore. To the east, upon an elevated 
point of land, are two light houses, of very beautiful con- 
struction, which I shall have occasion to describe hereafter. 

At some litde distance, we saw considerable flights of 
•wild ducks. The town and bason lie round the high west- 
ern point from the lights, below which there is a fine peb- 
bled beach. The quays are to the right and left within the 
pier, upon the latter of which there is a small round tower. 
It was not the intention of our packet Captain to go with- 
in the pier, for the purpose of saving the port-anchorage 
dues, which amount to -eight pounds sterling ; but a gov- 
ernment boat came off, and ordered the vessel to haul close 
vip to the quay, an order which was given in rather a pe- 
remptory manner. Upon our turning the pier, we saw, as 
we warped up to the quay, an immense motley crowd, 
flocking down to view us. A panic ran throughout our 
poor fellow passengers. From the noise and confusion on 
shore, they expected that some recent revolution had occur- 
red, and that they were upon the point of experiencing all 
the calamities, which they had before fled from ; they look- 
ed pale and agitated upon each other, hke a timid and ter- 
rified flock of sheep, when suddenly approached by their 



20 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

LANDING DESCRIBED. 

Vi'" '..;,,. ' , ■ ' ' " . . . ' 

natural enemy the wolf. It turned out, however, that 
mere curiosity, excited by the display of English colours, 
had assembled this formidable rabble, and that the order 
which we received from the government boat, was given 
for the purpose of compelling the Captain to incur, and 
consequently to pay, the anchorage dues. In a moment 
we were beset by a parcel of men and boys, half naked, 
and in wooden shoes, who hallooino^ and " sacre dieuincj** 
each other most unmercifully, began, without further cere- 
mony, to seize upon evQry trunk within their reach, which 
they threw into their boats lying along-side. 

By a well-timed rap upon the knuckles of one of these 
marine functionaries, we prevented our luggage from sharing 
the same fate. It turned out, that there was a competition 
for carrying our trunks ashore, for the sake of an immoderate 
price, which they expected to receive, and which occasion- 
ed our being assailed in this violent manner. Our fellow 
passengers were obliged to go on shore with these vocif- 
erous watermen, who had the impudence and inhumanity 
to charge them two livres each, for conveying them to the 
landing-steps, a short distance of about fifty yards. Upon 
their landing, we were much pleased to observe that the 
people offered them neither violence nor insult. They 
were received with a sullen silence, and a lane v/as made for 
them to pass into the town. The poor old clergyman, who 
had survived the passage, was left on board, in the care of 
two benevolent persons, until he could be safely and com- 
fortably conveyed on shore. We soon afterwards followed 
our fellow-passengers in the Captain's boat, by which plan 
we aftbrded these extortioners a piece of salutary inform^** 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 21 



LANDING UESCRIBEO. 



tlon, very necessary to be made known to them, that al- 
though v/e were English, we were not to be imposed upon. 
I could not help thinking it rather unworthy of our neigh- 
bours to exact from us such heavy port dues, when our 
own demands of a similar nature, are so Ycry trifling. For 
such an impost, a vessel of the Republic, upon its arrival in 
any of the English ports, would only pay a few shillings. 
Perhaps this difference will be equalized in some shape, by 
the impending commerical treaty, otherwise, a considerable 
partial advantage will accrue to the French from their pas- 
sage packets. Upon our landing, and entering the streets, 
I was a little struck with the appearance of the women, who 
were habited in a coarse red camlet jacket, with a high 
apron before, long flying lappets to their caps, and were 
mounted upon large heavy wooden shoes, upon each of 
which a worsted tuft was fixed, in rude imitation of a rose. 
The appearance and clatter of these sabots, as they are called, 
leave upon the mind an impression of extreme poverty and 
wretchedness. 

They are, however, more favoured than the lower order of 
females in Scotland, Upon a brisk sprightly chambermaid 
entering my room one day at an inn in Glasgow, I heard 
a sound which resembled the pattering of some web-footed 
bird, when in the act of climbing up the miry side of a 
pond. I looked down upon the feet of this bonny lassie, 
and found that their only covering was procured from the 
mud of the high street ! — adieu to the tender eulogies of the 
pastoral reed ! I have never thought of a shepherdess since 
with pleasure. 



m THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

' ■ ■ ' —^ ■' .- ■ ■ ... ''■'":■! 

HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 

I could not help observing the ease, dexterity, and 
swiftness, with which a single man conveyed all our lug- 
gage, which was very heavy, to the custom-house, and af- 
terwards to the inn, in a wheelbarrow, which differed from 
ours, only in being larger, and having two elastic handles of 
about nine f^et long. At the custom-house, notwithstand- 
ing what the English papers have said of the conduct obser- 
Ted here, we were very civilly treated, our boxes were only 
just opened, and some of our packages were not examined 
at all. Away we had them whirled to the Hotel de la 
Paix, the front of which looks upon the v/et-dock, and is 
embellished with a large board, upon v/hich is recorded, in 
yellow characters, as usual, the superior advantages of this 
house over every other hotel In Havre. Upon our arrival, 
v^t were ushered up a large dirty staircase into a lofty room 
upon the first floor, all the windows of which were open, 
divided, as they always are in France, in the middle, like 
folding doors ; the floor was tiled, a deal table, some com- 
mon rush chairs, two very fine pier glasses, and chande- 
liers to correspond, composed our motly furniture, I 
found it to be a good specimen of French inns, in general. 
We were followed by our hostess, the porter, two cooks, 
with caps on their heads, which had once been white, and 
large knives in their hands, who were succeeded by two 
chamber-maids, all looking in the greatest hurry and con- 
fusion, and all talking together, with a velocity, and vehe- 
mence, which rendered the faculty of hearing almost a mis- 
fortune. They appeared highly delighted to see us, talked 
of our dress. Sir Sidney Smith, the blockade, the noble En- 
glish, the peace, and a train of etceteras. At length we ob-* 



THE STRAt^'GER IN FRANCE. 9^ 

BREAKFAST KNIFE. 

talned a little cessation, of which we immsuiately seized the 
advantage, by directing them to show us to our bed-rooms, 
to procure abundance of water hot and cokl, to get us a good 
breakfast as soon as possible, and to prepare a good dinner 
for us at four o*clock. Amidst a peal of tongues, this cla- 
morous procession retired. 

After we had performed our necessary ablutions, and 
had enjoyed the luxury of fresh linen, we sat down to som« 
excellent coffee, accompanied with boiled milk, long, deli- 
cious rolls, and tolerably good butter, but found no knives 
upon the table ; which, by the by, every travelled in France 
is presumed to carry with him : having mislaid my own, 1 
requested the maid to bring me one. The person of this 
damsel, would certainly have suffered by a comparison with 
those fragrant flowers, to which young poets resemble their 
beloved mistresses. As soon as I had preferred my prayer, 
she very deliberately drew from her pocket a large clasp 
knife, which, after she had wiped on her apron, she prc-« 
sented to me, with a " voila Monsieur,** I received this 
dainty present, with every mark of due obligation, accom- 
panied, at the same time, with a resolution not to use it, 
particularly as my companions (for we had two other En- 
glish gentlemen with us) had directed her to bring some 
others to them. This delicate instrument was as savoury as 
its mistress, amongst the various fragrancies which it emit- 
ted, garlic seemed to have the mastery. 

About twelve o'clock we went to the hall of the munici- 
pality, to procure our passports for the interior, and found 
it crowded with people upon the same errend. We made 



^4 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

MUNICIPALITY. 

our way through them into a very handsome anti-room, 
and thence, by a little further perseverance, into an inner 
room, where the Mayor and officers were seated at a large 
table covered with green cloth. To show what reliance is 
to be placed upon the communications of English newspa- 
pers, I shall mention the following circumstance : my com- 
panion had left England, without a passport, owing to the 
repeated assurances of both the ministerial and opposition 
prints, and also of a person high in administration, that none 
were necessary. 

The first question propounded to us by the Secretary, 
was, *' citizens, where are your passports ?'* I had furnish- 
ed myself with one ; but upon hearing this question, I was 
determined not to produce it, from an apprehension that I 
should cover my friend, who had none, with suspicion, so 
we answered, that in England they were not required of 
Frenchmen, and that we had left our country with official 
assurances that they would not be demanded of us here. 

They replied to us by reading a decree, whicb rigorous- 
ly required them of foreigners, entering upon the territories 
of the republic, and they assured us, that this regulation 
was at that moment reciprocal with every other power, and 
with England in particular. The decree of course closed 
the argument. We next addressed ourselves to their polite- 
ness (forgetting that the revolution had made sad inroads 
upon it) and requested them, as we had been misled, and 
had no other views of visiting the country, but those of 
pleasure and improvement, that they would be pleased to 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 125 

MUMCIPALITY. 

grant us our passports for the interior. To this address, 
these high authorities, who seemed not much given to *' the 
melting mood,'* after making up a physiognomy, as severe 
and as iron'-bound as their coast, laconically observed, that 
the laws of the Republic must be enforced, that they should 
write to our ambassador to know who we were, and that 
in the mean time they would make out our passports for 
the town, the barriers of which we w^re not to pass* Ac- 
cordingly a little fat gentleman, in a black coat, filled up 
these official instruments, which were copied into their 
books, and both signed by us ; he then commenced our 
**signalement,'* which is a regular descriptive portrait of 
the head of the person who has thus the honour of sitting 
to the municipal portrait painters of the departement de la 
Seine inferieure. 

This portrait is intended, as will be immediately antici* 
pated, to afford increased facilities to all national guards, 
marechaussees, thief takers, &c. for placing in ** durance 
▼lie" the unfortunate original, should he violate the laws. 

The signalement is added in the margin to the passport^ 
and also registered in the municipal records, which from 
their size, appeared to contain a greater number of heads and 
faces, thus depicted, than any museum or gallery I ever 
beheld. 

How correct the likenesses in general are, I leave to the 
judgment of others, after I have informed them, that the 
hazle eyes of my friend were described "yeux bleus" in 
this masterly delineation. 



ga THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

-_■■■ '■ ' ■ , , . ■ - I J .» 

MUNICIPALITY. 

If the dead march in Saul, had been playing before us 
all the way, we could not have marched more gravely, or 
rather sulkily, to our inn. Before us, we had the heavy- 
prospect of spending about ten days in this town, not very 
celebrated for either beauty or cleanliness, until the munici- 
pality could receive an account of us, from our ambassador, 
who knew no more of us than they did. The other Eng- 
lish gentlemen were in the same predicament. 

However we determined to pursue the old adage, that 
what is without remedy, should be without regret, and, 
.English like, grew very merry over a good dinner, consist- 
ing of soups, and meat, and fowls, and fish, and vegetables, 
(for such is the order of a French dinner) confectionary and 
a desert, accompanied with good Burgundy, and excellent 
Champaign. Our misfortimes must plead our excuse, if 
the dinner is considered extravagant. Uncle Toby went to 
sleep when he was unhappy; we solicited consolation in 
another way. Our signalements afforded us much diver- 
sion, which at length was a little augmented by a plan which 
I mentioned, as likely to furnish us with the means of our 
liberation. After dinner I waited upon a young gentleman 
who was under the care of a very respectable merchant, to 
whom I had the good fortune to have letters of introduction. 
Through his means I was introduced to Mons. de la 

M — ' , who received me with great politeness. In 

the hurry and occupations of very extensive commercial 
pursuits, this amiable old gentleman had found leisure to' 
indulge himself in works of taste, liis noble fortune ena- 
bled him to gratify his liberal incliiiatious* I found him 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 07 

MUNICIPALITY. 

seated in his compting-house, which, from its handsome 
furniture and valuable paintings, resembled an elegant cabi- 
net. I stated the conduct of the municipality towards us, 
and requested his assistance. After he had shown me his 
apartments, a fine collection of drawings, by some of the 
first masters, and some more excellent paintings, we parted, 
with an assurance that he would immediately wait upon the 
Mayor, who was his friend, and had no doubt but that he 
should in the course of the next day, enable us to leave Ha- 
vre when and in what manner we pleased. With this agree- 
able piece of intelligence, I immediately returned to the inn, 
where it induced us to drink health and success to the 
fendly merchant in another bottle of champaign. 



3S THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER III. 

Passports pt*ocured,'^ Coins. -^Toxon of Havre,'— -Carts, -^ 
Cifo^en. — HonJlew\' — Deserters, — Prefect de Marine.-'^ 
Ville de Sandwich, — French Farmers,'— 'Sir Sidney Smith,-— 
Catherine de Medicis,— Light Houses,— Rafts, 

Xf Havre had been a Paradise, the feelings of restraint 
would have discoloured the magic scenery, and turned th(5 
enlivening green to a cheerless barren brown. 

As we could relish nothing iintil we had procured out 
irelease, the first place we visited the next morning, was, 
once more, the residence of the municipaUty, where we 
found that our worthy friend had previously arranged every- 
thing to our wishes, and, upon his signing a certificate, that 
we were peaceable citizens, and had no intention to over- 
turn the Republic, our passports were made out, and upon 
an exchange of a little snufF, and a few bows, we retired. 
The other two Englishmen had their wishes gratified by 
the same lucky incident which had assisted us. 

Having changed our guineas for French money, and, as 
in future, when money is mentioned, it will be in the cur- 
rency of the country, it perhaps may not be unacceptable to, 
subjoin a table of the old, and new, and Republican coins. 
For every guinea of full weight, which we carried over, we 
received twenty-four livres, or a louis d'or, which is equal to 
twenty shillings sterling, of course we lost one shilling upon 
^very good guinea, and more, according to the deficiency 
of weight. The course of exchange and commission, with 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. eg 



our country, I afterwards found at Paris, to be one shilling 
and eight pence, in the pound sterling, against us, but the 
difference will be progressively nearer par, as the accustom- 
ed relations of commerce resume their former habits. I 
was surprised to find the ancient monarchical coin in chief 
circulation, and that of the Republic, very confined. Scarce 
a pecuniary transaction can occur, but the silent, and elo- 
quent medallion of the unhappy monarch, seems to remind 
these bewildered people of his fate, and their past misfor- 
tunes. Although the country is poor, all their payments 
are made in cash, this is owing to the shock given by 
the revolution^ to individual, and consequently to paper 
predit. 

To comprehend their money, it must be known, al- 
though the French always calculate by livrcs, as we do by 
pounds sterling, that the livre is no coin, but computation. 

MONARCHICAL COINS. 



GOLD. - 

A louis d Vr is twenty-four livres French, or 20 English, 



SILVER. 

A grand ecu, or six livre piece, - - - 5 
An ecu, or three livre piece, - - - 2 6 
The vingt quatre sols piece, - - - 10 
A douze sols piece is twelve pence French, or 6 
A. six sols piece is 6d French, or - - - 3 



30 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



COPPER MIXED WITH SILVER, 

A deux sols, or two pence French, and one penny En- 
glish, is nearly the size of our sixpence, but is copper, with 
a white or silverish mixture, twelve of these make a vingt 
quatre sols piece, or one shilling English. 

They have also another small piece of nearly the same 
size and colour, but not so white, and rather thinner, which 
is one sol and a half, three halfpence French, or three far- 
things English. 

COPPER. 

A sol is like our halfpenny, value one penny French, 
or a halfpenny English ; twenty-four of these make an En- 
glish shining. 

A deux liard piece is half a sol French, or a farthing 
English. 

A liard is a farthing French, and of the value of half a 
farthing English. 

NEW COINT. 

A thirty sols piece, is a very beautiful and convenient 
coin, worth one shilling and three pence English, having a 
good impression of the late king's head on one side, and 
the goddess of Liberty on the other ; it was struck in the 
early part of the revolution. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 31 



TOWN OF HAVRE. 



REPUBLICAN COIN. 



SILVER. 



A fifteen sols piece, is half of the above, and very 
convenient, 

COPPER. 

A six Hard is a bit of copper composition, such as the 
fine cannon are made of, and is v^crth three sols French, or 
a halfpenny and a farthing English. 

A cinq centimes is worth a halfpenny and half a far- 
thing English. 

The centimes are of the value of half farthings, five of 
which are equal to the last coin ; they are very small and neat. 

An early knowledge of these coins, is very necessary to 
a stranger, on account of the dishonest advantages which 
French tradesmen take of their English customers. 

To return to my narrative ; finding ourselves at liberty 
to pursue our route, we went from the municipality to the 
Bureau des diligences, and secured our places in the voiture 
to Rouen, for the next day. 

After this necessary arrangement, we proceeded to view 
the town, which is composed of long and narrow streets. 
The fronts of the houses, which are lofty, are deformed by 
the spaces between the naked intersections of the frame work 
being filled up with mortar, which gives them n.n appearangc 
«f being very heavy and very mean. 



3^ tilE STItANGEH IN FRANCE. 

CITOYEN. 

The commerce formerly carried on at Havre, was very 
extensive. There is here also large manufactories for lace.' 
The theatre is very spacious, well arranged, and as far as we 
could judge by day-light, handsomely decorated. The 
players did not perform during our stay. In the vegetable 
market placCj which was much crowded, and large, we 
saw at this season of the year, abundance of fine apples, as 
fresh in appearance as when they were first plucked from 
the tree. 

In our way there, we were accosted by a little fagged 
beggar boy, who addressed himself to our compassionate 
dispositions, by the appellation of " tres charitable citoyen,'* 
but finding we gave nothing, he immediately changed it to 
** mon chere tres charitable monsieur**' 

The strange uncouth expression of citoyen is generally 
laid aside, except amongst the immediate officers under gov* 
crnment in their official communications, who, however, re- 
nounce it in private for the more civilized title of ' monsieur,' 

The principal cliurch is a fine handsome building, and 
had been opened for worship, the Sunday before we arrived : 
On that day the bell of the Sabbath first sounded, during 
ten years of revolution, infidelity, and bloodshed I 

The royal arms are every where removed. They for- 
merly constituted a very beautiful ornament over the door 
of the hotel of the present prefect, at the head of the market 
place, but they have been rudely beaten out by battle-axes, 
and replaced by rude republican emblems, which every 
where (I speak of them as a decoration) seem to disfigure 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 33 



DESEKTERS. SIR SIDNEY SMITH 



the buildings which bear them. When I made this remark, 
J must, however, candidly confess, that my mind very 
cordially accompanied m)^ eye, and that a natural sentiment 
mingled with the observation. The quays, piers, and 
arsenal are very fine, they, together with the docks for small 
ships of war and merchandize, were constructed under the 
auspices of Lewis XIV. with whom this port vvas a great 
favourite. 

We saw several groups of men at work in heavy chains-. 
They were soldiers who had offended. They are dressed 
in red ]sicktts and trowsers, which are supposed to increase 
their disgrace, on account of its being the regimental colour 
of their old enemy, the English. When my companion, 
who wore his regimentals, passed them, they all moved 
their caps to him with great respect. 

The town, and consequently the commerce of Rouen, 
was most successfully blockaded, for near four years, by 
British commanders, during the late war, and particularly 
by Sir Sidney Smith. It was here, when endeavouring to 
cut out a vessel, which in point of value and consideration, 
was unworthy of such an exposure, that this great hero, and 
distinguished being, was made a prisoner of war. The in- 
habitants, who never speak of him, but with emotions of 
terror, consider this event as the rash result of a wager 
conceived over wine. Those who know the character of 
Sir Sidney, will not impute to hint such an act of idle teme- 
rity. No doubt he considered the object as included in his 
duty, and it is only to be lamented, that, during two lin- 
gering years of rigorous, and cruel cor.finement, in the dun- 

E 



34 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

SIR SIDNEV SMITH CATHARINE DE MEUICIS 

geons of the unhappy sovereign, his country was bereaved 
of the assistance of her immortal champion, who, in a 
future season, upon the shores of Acre, so nobly filled up 
the gloomy chasm of suspended services, by exploits, which 
to be believed, must not be adequately described, and who 
revenged, by an act of unrivalled glory, the long endurance 
of sufferings and indignities, hateful to the magnanimous 
spirit of modern warfare, and unknown to it, until displayed 
within the walls of a Prussian dungeon,* 

I shall hereafter have occasion to mention this extraor- 
dinary character, when I speak of his escape from the Tem- 
ple, the real circumstances attending which are but little 
known, and which I received from an authority upon which 
the reader may rely. 

This town is not unknown to history. At the celebra- 
ted siege of it, in the time of Catharine de Medicis, that ex- 
ecrable princess, distinguished herself by her personal intre- 
pidity. It is said that she landed here in a galley, bearing 
the device of the sun, with these words in greek, *' I bring 
light, and fine weather;'^ — a motto which ill corresponded 
with her conduct. 

With great courage, such as seldom associates with cruel 
and ferocious tyrants, she here on horseback, at the head of 
her army, exposed herself to the fire of the cannon, like the 
•most veteran soldier, and betrayed no symptoms of fear, al- 
though the bullets flew about her in all directions. When 
desired by the duke of Guise, and the constable de Mont- 

* The cruel imprisonment of La Fayette is alluded to. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 35 



PREFECT DE MARINE. LIGHT HOUSES. 



morenci, not to expose he^r person so mucli, the brave, but 
sanginary Catharine replied, "have I not more to lose than 
•*you, and do you think I have not as much courage ?" 

The walk through La ville de Sandwiche to the Light- 
houses, which are about two miles from Havre, is very 
pleasing. The path lay through flax and clover fields. In 
this part of the country, the farmers practice an excellent 
plan of rural economy, which is also used in Dorsetshire, 
and some few other counties, of confining their cattle by a 
string to a spot of pasture, until they have completely clear- 
ed it. 

Upon the hill ascending to the cliiFs, are several very 
elegant chateaus and gardens, belonging to the principal in- 
habitants of the town. 

Monsieur B , the prefed: de marine, has a beautiful 

residence here. We were accidentally stopping at his gate, 
which was open, to view the enchanting prospects which 
it presented to us, when the polite owner observed us, and 
with that amiableness and civility, which still distinguish 
the descendants of the ancient families of rank in France, of 
which he is one, requested us to enter, and walked with us 
round his grounds, which were disposed with great taste. 
He afterwards conducted us to his elegant house, and gave 
us dried fruit and excellent burgundy, after which we walk- 
ed round the village to the Light-houses. From him we 
learnt that the farmers here, as in England, were very respec- 
table, and had amassed considerable wealth during the war. 
The approach to the Light-houses, through a row of elms, is 



35 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

LIGHT HOUSES. 

very pleasant ; they stand upon an immense liigli perpen- 
dicular diff, and are lofty square buildings, composed of fine 
light brown free-stone, the entrance is handsome, over which 
there is a good room, containing four high windows and a 
lodging-room for the people, who have the care of the light, 
the glass chamber of which we reached, after ascending to 
a considerable height, by a curious spiral stone stair-case. 
The lantern is composed of ninety immense reflecting lamps, 
•which are capable of being raised or depressed with great 
ease, by means of an iron windlass. This large lustre is 
surrounded with plates of the thickest French glass, fixed 
in squares of iron, and discharges a prodigious light in dark 
nights. A furnace of coal was formerly used, but this has 
been judiciously superseded by the present invention. 
Round the lantern is a gallery with an iron balustrade, the 
view from this elevation upon the beach, the entrance of the 
Seine, Honfleur (where our fienry III is said to have fought 
the French armies, and to have distinguished himself by his 
valour,) the distant hills of Lower Normandjr, and the 
ocean, is truly grand, it brought to m.y mind that beautiful 
description of Shakspeare — 



-The murmuring suri^e 



That on th' unnumbered idle pebbles chafes, 
Cannot be heard so high: I'll losk no more, 
Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight 
Topple down headlong. 

We did not visit the other tower, as it was uniform with 
this. I'he woman who has the charge of the light, 
was very good humoured, and very talkative ; she seemed 
delighted to show us every thing, and said she preferred see- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ST 



ing Englishmen m her tower as friends, to the view she 
frequently had of thtm from it as enemies, alluding to the 
long and masterly blockade of this port by a squadron of 
English frigates. She carried us to her little museum, as 
she called it, where she had arranged very neatly, a con-i 
siderable collection of fossils, shells, and petrefactions. 
Here she showed us, with great animation, two British, 
cannon-balls, which, during the blockade, had very nearly 
rendered her husband and herself, as cold and as silent as 
any of the petrefactions in her collection. In this little 
cabinet was her bed, where, amidst the war of winds and 
waves, she told us she slept as sound as a Consul, 

In the basins of Havre, we .saw several rafts, once so 
much talked of, constructed for the real or ostensible pur- 
pose of conveying the invading legions of France, to the 
shores of Great Britain. I expected to have seen an im- 
mense floating platform, but the vessels which we saw, 
were made like brigs of an uncommon breadth, with two 
low masts. The sincerity of this project has been much 
disputed, but that the French government expended con- 
siderable suras upon the scheme, I have no doubt, 

I must not omit to mention the admirable mode which 
they have here, and in most parts of France, of constructing 
their carts. They are placed upon very high wheels, the 
load is generally arranged so as to create an equipoise, and 
is raised by an axle, flistened near the shafts. I was in- 
formed by a merchant, that a single horse can draw with 
ease thirty-six hundred weight, in one of these carts. 
These animals have a formidable appearance, owing to a 



38 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

■ ' ' " ' ' I • , 

ECONOMICAL HINT. 

strange custom which the French have, of covering the 
collar with an entire sheep's skin, which gives them the 
appearance of having an enormous shaggy mane. 

At night we settled our bills, which amounted to forty 
livres each, a considerable charge in this country, but we 
had lived well, and had not thought it worth our while, on 
account of the probable shortness of our stay, to bargain 
for our lodging and board, a plan generally proper to be 
used by those who mean to remain for some length of time, 
in any place in France. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 39 



CHAPTER IV. 

Cheap travelling to P aris.'— ^Diligences r^French Postilions.-'^. 
Spanish Postilions, — Norman Horses. — Bolbec. — Natives 
of Caux, — Ivetot. — Return of Religion. — Santerre*-^ 
Jacobin. — The Mustard Pot,"— -National Property, 



Bi 



►EFORE I proceed on my journey, I beg leave to 
present a very cheap mode of travelling to Paris, from 
Havre, to those who have more time at their command 
than I had. It was given to me by a respectable gentle- 
man and an old traveller, 

Sols, 
From Havre to Honfleur, by the passage-boat 10 
From Honfleur to Pontaudemar, by land - - 3 
From Pontaudemar to Labouille - - - - S 
From Labouille to Rouen, by water - - - 12 
From Rouen to Rolleboise, by land - - - 6 
From Rolleboise to Pontoise, by water - - 50 
From Pontoise to Paris, by land - - - - 30 

This progress, howfever, is tedious and uncertain. 

At day-break we seated ourselves in the diligence. All 
the carriages of this description have the appearance of be- 
ing the result of the earliest effects in the art of coach- 
building. A more uncouth clumsy machine can scarcely be 
imagined. In the front is a cabriolet fixed to the body of 
the coach, for the. accommodation of three passengers, who 
are protected from the rain above by the projecting roof of 
flie coach, and in front by two heavy curtains of leather, 



40 THE STI{ ANGER IN FRANCE. 



DILIGENCES. 

/ 



well oiled, and smelling somewhat oiTensivelj, fastened to 
the roof. The inside, which is capacious and lofty, and 
will hold six people with great comfort, is lined with leather 
padded, and surrounded with little pockets, in which the 
travellers deposit their bread, snuff, night-caps, and pocket 
handkerchiefs, which generally enjoy each others company 
in the same delicate depositary. From the roof depends a 
large net-work, which is generally crouded with hats, swords 
and band-boxes ; the whole is convenient, and when all par- 
ties are seated and arranged, the accommodations are by no 
means unpleasant. 

Upon the roof, on the outside, is the Imperial, which Is 
generally filled with six or seven persons more, and a heap 
of luggage, which latter also occupies the basket, and gene- 
rally presents a pile half as high again as the coach, which 
is secured J^y ropes and chains, tightened by a large iron 
windlass, which also constitutes another appendage of this 
moving mass. The body of the carriage rests upon large 
thongs of leather, fastened to heavy blocks of wood, instead 
of springs, and the whole Is drawn by seven horses. The 
three first are fastened to the cross-bar, the rest are in pairs, 
all in rope harness and tackling. The near horse of the 
three first, Is mounted by the postilion, in his great jack 
boots, which are always placed with much ceremony, like 
two tubs, on the right side of his Rosinante, just before he 
ascends. These curious protectors of his legs, are compo- 
sed of wood, and Iron hoops, softened within by stuffing, 
and give him all the dignity of riding In a pair of upright 
portmanteaus. With a long lash whip in his hand, a dirty 



i^Hte STRANGER IN FRA^XE. il 



FKENCH POSTILIONS. 



.nightcap and an old cocked hat upon bis lieud, lialoo- 
iiig alternately *« a gauche, a droit," and a few occasional 
sacre dieus, wh'ch seem always propeily a|/piied, and per- 
fectly understood, the'mervy postilion drives along his cat- 
tle. I must not fail to do justice to the scientific skill with 
which he manages on horsebackj his long and heavy coach 
whip ; with this comraand'ng instrument, he can reanimate 
by a touch, each halting muscle of his h'gging aninv.ls, can 
cut ofF an annoying fly, and with the loud cracking of its 
thong, he announces, upon his entiaace into a town, the 
approach of his heavy and clattering cavalcade. Each o£ 
these diligences is provided with a conducteur, who ridest 
upon the imperial, and is responsible throughout the jout- 
iiey, for the comfort of the passengers and safety of the luo-- 
gage. For his trouble the passenger pays him only thirty 
sols for himself, and fifteen more for the different postilions, 
to be divided amongst them, for these the donor is thank- 
-ed with a low bowj and many *« blen obliges," in the 
name of himself and his contented comrades. 

Our companions proved to be ^om.e of our old friends 
the emigrants, who had thrown aside their marine disha- 
bille, and displayed the appearance of gentlemen. We were 
much pleased with again meeting each other. Their con* 
Versation upon the road was vGvy interesting, it was filled 
with sincere regret for the afliictions of their country, 
and with expressions of love and gratitude towards the Eri- 
glish. They told us many little tales of politeness and hu- 
manity which they had received from my countrymen in 



4g THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

,.i. .. , ' — . ■■-■■,-.,", : : '^ 

ABBE DE LA H NORMAN HORSES. 

the various towns where their destiny had placed them. 
One displayed with amiable pride, a snuff-box, which he 
had received as a parting token of esteem, another a pocket- 
book, and each was the bearer of some little affectionate 
proof of merit, good conduct, or friendship. 

One of these gentlemen, the abbe de TH , whose 

face was full of expression, tinctured with much grief and 
attendant indisposition, with a manner, and in atone which 
were truly affecting, concluded a little narrative of some 
kindness which he had received, by saying, *' if the English 
*' and my country are not friends, it shall not be for want 
*« of my prayers. I fled from France without tears, for the 
*' preservation of my life, but when I left England, I con- 
*'fess it, I could not help shedding some." They did not 
disgrace the generous abbe — such a nation was worthy of 
such feelings. 

Our horses were of the Norraan breed, small, stout, 
short, and full of spirit, and to the honour of those who have 
the care of them, in excellent condition, I was surprised 
to see these little animals running away with our cumbrous 
machine, at the rate of six or seven miles an hour. 

We traced the desolating hand of the revolution as soon 
as we ascended the iirst hill. 

Our road lay through a charming country. Upon the 
sides of its acclivities, surrounded by the most romantic 
scenery of woods and corn-fields, we saw ruined convents, 
and roofless village churches, through the shattered case- 
ments of which the wind had free admission. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 4S 

'■!■' ■ ■ . ' = 

BOLBEC. NATIVES OF CAUX, 

We breakfasted at a neat town called Bolbec, seven 
leagues from Havre, where we had excellent cofFee, butter, 
and rolls. All the household of our inn looked clean, hap- 
py, and sprightly. 

This is the principal town of the province of Caux, the 
women of which dress their heads in a very peculiar, and in 
mv humble opinion, unbecoming manner, I made a 
hasty sketch of one of them who entered the yard of the inn 
with apples for sale. 

Such a promontory of cap and lacs I never before 
beheld. She had been at a village marriage that morning, 
and was bedecked in all her finery. The people of this 
province are industrious and rich, and consequently respec- 
table. At the theatre at Rouen 1 afterwards saw, in one 
of the front boxes, a lady from this country, dressed after 
its fashion ; the effect was so singular, that it immediately 
induced mcto distlnguijrh her from the rest of the audience, 
but her appearance seemed to excite no curiosity with any- 
other person. 

Our breakfast cost us fifteen sous, to which may be 
added two sols more, for the maids, who waited upon 
us with cheerful smiles, and habited in the full cushvois 
costume, and which also entitled us to kisses and curtsies. 
I beg leave to oppose our breakfast charge to the ru- 
mours which prevailed in England, that this part of France 
was then in a state of famine. From this town, the road 
was beautifully lined with beech, chesnut, and apple trees. 
The rich yellow of the rape-seed which overspread the 



44 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

IVETOT COUHT AN ECDOTE.— ML'ST A RD 

Surface of many of the fields on each side, was very anima- 
ting to the eye. From this vef';etable. the country people 
express oil, and of the pulp of it make calces, which the 
Norman horses will fatten upon. \¥e had an early dinner 
at Ivetot, five leagues distant from Bolbec. In ancient pe- 
riods this m'ssrable town was once the capital of a separate 
kingdom. In oar dining room were three beds, or rather 
we dine.l in the bed room. I use the former expression out 
of compliment to the pride of our little host, who replied 
with same loftiness to one of our companions, who, upon 
enterino- the room, and seeing so many accommodations 
for repose, exclaimed with the sharpness of appetite, " my 
*« good host, we want to eat, and not to sleep ;'* *' Gen- 
*' tlemen," said our mortified little maitre d'hotel, *« this 
*^ chamber is the dining room, and it is thought a very 
*' good one." From its appearance I should have believed 
him, had he sworn that it was the state room of the palace 
of this ancient princiiDality, of which this wretched town 
was once the capital. It reminded me of an anecdote rela- 
ted by an ancient English lady of fashion, when she first 
paid her respects to James I, soon after his accession to the 
crown of England. She mentions in her memoir, that his 
royal drawing-room was so very dirty, that after the levee, 
she was obliged to recur to her comb for relief I In plain 
truth, James I. and his court, were very lousy. 

Our master of the house was both cook and waiter. 
At dinner, amongst several other dishes, we had some 
stewed beef, I requested to be favoured with a little mus- 
tard, our host very solemnly replied, *'I am very sorry, citi- 
^' zen, but 1 have none ; if you had been fortunate enough to 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 45 



RETURN OF RELIGION JACOBIN. 



** have been here about three weeks since, you might have 
** had some." It was more than I wished, so I ate my beef 
very contentedly without it. With our dessert we had a 
species of cake called brioche, composed of egg, flour, and 
water ; it is in high estimation in France. 

It v/as in this town o;?/?/, that I saw a specimen of that 
forlorn wretchedness and importunity, which have been 
said to constitute the general nuisance of this country. 

In the shop of a brazier here, w^as exposed a new lead- 
en crucilix, about two feet and a half high, for sale ; it had 
been cast preparatory to the re-inauguration of the arch- 
bishop of Rouen, which was to take place upon the next 
Sunday week, in the great cathedral of that city. 

In consequence of the restoration of religion, the beg- 
gars, who have in general considerable cleverness, and 
know how to turn new circumstances to advantage, had 
just learnt a fresh mode of soliciting monc}^, by repeating 
the Lord's Prayer in French and Latin. We were treated 
with this sort of importunate piety for near a mile, after 
we left Ivetot. 

I have before mentioned, that the barbarous jargon of 
the revolution is rapidly passing away. It is only heie and 
there that its slimy track remains. The time is not very 
distant when Frenchmen wished to be known by the name 
of Jacobins ; it is now become an appellation of reproach, 
even amongst the surviving aborigines of the revolution. As 
an instance of it, a naval officer of rank and intelligence, 
who joined us at Ivetot, informed us, that he had occasion^ 



4(5 THK STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

<■ ' • „ — ' ■ ' y 

SANTERRE.— NATIONAL CONVENTION. 

" ' ' ' ' ■ ' " 

upon some matters of business, to meet Santerre a few days 
tefore ; that inhuman and vulgar revolutionist, who com- 
manded the national guards when they surrounded the scaf^ 
fold during the execution of their monarch. In the course 
of their conversation Santerre, speaking of a third person, 
exclaimed, *' I cannot bear that man ; he is a Jacobin ;'* 
Let all true revolutionary republicans cry out. Bravo ! at 
this. 

This miscreant lives unnoticed, in a little village near 
Paris, upon a slender income, which he has made in trade, 
aiot in the trade of blood ; for it appears that Robespierre 
■was not a very liberal patron of his servants. He kept his 
blood-hounds lean, and keen,' and poorly fed them with 
the rankest ofFal. 

After a dusty journey, through a very rich and pictu- 
resque country, of near eighty miles, we entered the beauti- 
ful boulevards * of Rouen, about seven o* clock in the 
eveninof, which embowered us from the sun. Their shade 
■was delicious. I think them finer than those of Paris. 
The noble elms, which compose them, in four stately rows, 
are all nearly of the same height. Judge of my surprise — 
upon our rapidly turning the corner of a street, as we en- 
tered the city, I suddenly found coach, horses and all, in the 
aisle of an ancient catholic church. The gates were closed 
upon us, and in a moment, from the busy buzzing of the 
streets, we were translated into the silence of shattered tombs 
and the gloom of cloisters : the only light which shone upon 

■* Environs of a tovsrn, planted virith stately trees. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 4T 

SINGULAR STABLES —EXPENCE OF CARRIAGE. 

IIS, issued through fragments of stained glass, and the aper*" 
tures which were formerly filled with it. 

My surprise, however, was soon quieted, by being in- 
formed, that this church, having devolved to the nation as 
its property, by force of a revolutionary decree, had been 
afterwards sold for stables, to one of the owners of the 
Rouen diligences. 

An old unsaleable cabriolet occupied the place of the 
altar ; and the horses were very quietly eating their oats in 
the sacristy ! 

At the Bureau, we paid twelve llvres and a half for our 
places and luggage from Havie to this town* 



48 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER V. 

A female F7'ench fib.-^MiUtari/ and Civil Procession,*-^ 
Madame G.-— -The RemetOt— -Monsieur I* Abbe. ^-^Bi^idge of 
Boats, — Th e Quaj/> — Exchange,' — Th catre, — Ron en,< — Ca-^ 
t/iedraL-—'St.Oue72s. — Prince of Waldcc-^Maid of Orleans, 



H 



-AVING collected together all our Inggage, and seen it 
safely lodged in a porter's wheelbarrow. Captain C. and I 
bade adieu to oar fellow travellers, and to these solemn and 
unsuitable habitations of ostlers and horses, and proceeded 
through several narrow streets, lined with lofty houses, the 
shops of which were all open, and the shopkeepers, chiefly 
women, looked respectable and sprightly, with gay bou- 
quets in their bosoms, to the Hotel de 1' Europe ; it is a fine 
inn, to which we had been recommended at Flavre, kept by 

Madame F , who, with much politeness, and many 

captivating movements, dressed a-la-Grec, with immense 
golden ear-rings, approached us, and gave us a little piece of 
information, not very pleasant to travellers somewhat 
discoloured by the dust of a long and sultry day's journey, 
who wanted comfortable rooms, fresh linen, a little coifeej^ 
and a good night's repose : her information v/as, that her 
house was completely full, but that she would send to an 
upholsterer to fit up two beds for us, in a very neat room, 
which she had just papered and furnished, opposite to the 
porter's lodge (all the great inns and respectable town-hou- 
ses in France, have great gates, and a porter's lodge at the 
entrance ) As we wished to have three rooms, we told her 

we were friends of Messrs, G , the principal merchahts 

of Rouen. She said they were very amiable men, and 



triE STRANGER IN FINANCE. 49 

A FEMALE FRENCH FIB— MADAME P ., 

were pleased to send all their friends to her house, (a little 

French fib of Madame F 's, by the by, as will appear 

hereafter ;) and she was truly sorry that she could not ac- 
commodate us better. We looked into the room, which 
also looked into the street, was exposed to all its noise, and 

very small. So we made our bows to Madame F , and. 

proceeded with our wheelbarrow to the Hotel de Poitiers 
— a rival house. It is situated in the beautiful boulevards^ 
which I have mentioned, and is part of a row of fine stone- 
built houses. Upon our ringing the bell, Madame P 

presented herself. We told her, we were just arrived at 
Rouen, that we had the honour of being known to Messrs, 
G — — , and should be happy to be placed iihder her roof, 
and wished to have two lodging rooms and a sitting room 

to ourselves. Madame P , who possessed that sort of 

good and generous heart, which nature, for its better pre- 
servation, had lodged in a comfortable envelope of comely 

plumpness^ observed, that Messrs. G were gentlemen 

of great respectability, were her patrons, and always sent 
their friends to her house (a point upon which these rival 

dames were at issue, but the triith was with Madame P- ) 

that she v/ould do all in her pow^er to make us happy ; but 
at present, on account of her house being very crowded, 
she could only offer us two bed-rooms. We were too 
tired to think of any further peregrinations of discovery ; so 
we entered our bed -rooms, which, like most of the cham- 
bers in France, had brick floors without any carpetting; 
they were, however, clean, and after ordering a good fire 
in one of them (for the sudden and unusual frost, which, in 
tii€ beginning of summer, committed so much ravage 

G 



50 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



PROCESSION.-^MADAME G.— REVIEW. 



tlirono-hout Europe, commenced the day we had first the 

honour of seeing Madame I* -) ; and, after enjoymg 

those comforts which weary wanderers require, we mount- 
ed our lofty beds, and went to rest. 

The next day we presented our letter, and ourselves, 
to Madame G — — , the amiable mother of the gentlemer^ 
I have mentioned. She received us with great politeness, 
and immediately arranged a dinner party for us for that 
day. It being rather early in the morning, we were ad- 
mitted into her chamber, a common custom of receiving 
early visits in France. 

About eleven o'clock we saw a splendid procession of 
all the military and civil authorities, to the hotel* of the pre- 
fect, which was opposite to our inn. 

The object of this cavalcade, was to congratulate the 
archbishop of Rouen (who was then upon a visit to the 
prefect, until his own palace Avas ready to receive him) on 
his elevation to the see. 

This spectacle displayed the interference of God, in thus 
making the former enemies of his worship, pay homage to 
his ministers, after a long reign of atheism and persecution. 

About twelve o'clock, which is the hour of parade 
throughout the republic, we went to the Champ de Mars, 
and saw a review of the 20th regiment of chasseurs, under 
the command of Generals St. Hiliare and Ruffin, who, as 

* Hotel, in, France, means either an inn, or private howse of 
eonsequence. ^ 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 51 

THE REVIEW. MONSIEUR l' ABBE. 

well as the regiment, had particularly distinguished them- 
selves at Marengo. 

The men were richly appointeil, and in general well 
mounted. They all wore mustachios. They were just 
arrived from Amiens, where, as a mark of honour, they 
had been quartered during the negociation. 

The officers were superbly attired, St. Hiliare is a 
young man, and in his person much resembles his patron 
and friend, the First Consul ; and, they say, in abili- 
ties also. 

Some of the horses were of a dissimilar size and colour, 
which had a bad effect ; but I was informed, upon mak- 
ing the remark, that they had lost manj'- in battle, and had 
not had time properly to replace them. They were all 
strong and fiery, and went through their evolutions with 
surprising swiftness. 

At dinner our party was very agreeable. Next to me 
sat a little Abbe, who appeared to be in years, but full of 
vivacitjr, and seemed to be much esteemed by every per- 
son present. During the time of terror^ (as the French 
emphatically call the gloomy reign of Robespierre) the 
blood of this good man, who, from his wealth, piet}^, and 
munificence, possessed considerable influence in Rouen, 

was sought after with keen pursuit. Madame G was 

the saviour of his life, by concealing him, previous to her 
own imprisonment, for two years, in different cellars uri- 
der her house, which she rendered as warm and as comfort- 
able as circumstances, and the nature of the concealment 
would allow. In one of these cells of humane secrecy, this 



59 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

BiUUGE OF BOATS. 

worthy man has often eaten his solitary and agitated meal, 
whilst the soldiers of the tyrant, who were quartered upoi> 
his protectress, were carousing in the kitchen immediately 
above him. 

Soon after our coffee, which, in this country, immedi-*- 
ately succeeds the dinner, we went to view the bridge of 
boats, so celebrated in history. This curious structure was 
contrived by an Augustine friar named Michael Bougeois ; it 
is composed of timber, regularly paved, in squares which 
contain the stones, and is 1000* feet in length ; it commenr 
ces from the middle of the quay of Rouen, and reaches over 
to the Fauxbourg of St. Sever, and carries on the commu- 
nication with the country which lies south of the city. It 
was begun in the year 1 626 ; below it are the ruins of the 
fine bridge of 13 arches, built by the Empress Maud, 
daughter of Henry I, of England, This ingenious fabric 
Tests upon I9 immense barges, which risp and fall with the 
flowing and subsiding of the tide. When vessels have oc- 
casion to pass it, a portion of the platform, sufficient to ad- 
mit their passage, is raised, and rolled over the other part. 
In the winter, when any danger is apprehended from the 
large flakes of ice, which float down the river, the whole is 
taken to pieces in an hour. The expense of keeping it in 
repair is estimated at 10000 livres, or 400 pounds sterling 
per annum, and is defrayed by government, it being the 
high-road to Picardy. Upon the whole, although this 
bridge is so much admired, I must confess it appeared to 
jne a heavy performance, unsuitable to the wealth and 

f The French feet are to the English as 1068 to 1000, ' 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 55 

THE QUAY —EXCHANGE. THEAThE. 

aplendor of the city of Rouen, and below the taste and in- 
genuity of modern times. A handsome light stone struc- 
ture, with a centre arch, covered with a drawbridge, for the 
passage of vessels of considerable burden, or a lofty flying 
iron bridge, would be less expensive, more safe, and much 
more ornamental. 

The view from this bridge up the Seine, upon the islands 
below mount St. Catharine, is quite enchanting. Upon 
the quay, although it was Sunday, a vast number of people 
were dancing, drinking, and attending shows and lotteries. 
Here were people of various nations parading; up and down 
in the habits and dresses of their respective countries, which 
produced quite the effect of a masquerade. The river Seine 
is so deep at this place, that ships of three hundred tons bur- 
den are moored close to the quay, and make a very fine ap- 
pearance. The exchange for the merchants, is parallel with 
the centre of the quay, and is a long paved building of 
about 400 feet in length, open at top, having a handsome 
iron balustrade, and seats towards the Seine, and a hicrh 
stone-wall towards the town. Over all the crreat gfates of 
the city, is written in large characters, '* Liberty, Equalitj^, 
Humanity, Fraternity or Death : ' * the last two words have 
been painted over, but are still faintly legible. 

In the evening we went to the French opera, which was 
very crowded. The boxes were adorned with genteel peo- 
ple, and many beautiful young women. The theatre is 
very large, elegant, and handsome, and the players were 
good. I was struck with the ridiculous antics and ges- 
tyres of the chief in the orchestra, a man whose office it is 
to beat time to the musicians. In the municipality box. 



54 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

ROUEN. THE CATHESTIAL. 

which was in the centre, lined with green silk and gold, 
were two line young women, who appeared to be ladies 
of fashion and consequence ; they were dressed after the 
antique, in an attire, which, for lightness and scantiness, I 
never saw equalled, till I saw it surpassed at Paris. 'They 
appeared to be clothed only in jewels and a little muslin, 
very gracefully disposed ; the latter, to borrow a beautiful 
expression, had the appearance of "woven air.'* From 
emotions of gratitude for the captivating display which they 
made, I could not help offering a few fervent wishes, that 
the light of the next day might find them preserved from 
the dreaded consequences of a very bitter cold night. 

Rouen, upon the whole, is a fine city, very large and 
populous. It was formerly the capital of the kingdom of 
Normandy. It stands upon a plain, screened on three sides 
by high and picturesque mountains. It is nearly two leagues 
in compass, exclusive of the fauxbonrgs of St. Severs, Cau- 
choise, Bouveul, St. Hiliare, Martainville, and Beauvisme. 
Its commerce was very celebrated, and is returning with 
great rapidity. Most of the fine buildings in this city and 
its environs, are Anglo-Norman antiquities, and were found- 
ed by the English before they left Normandy. 

The Cathedral is a grand and awful pile of Gothic 
architecture, built by our William the Conqueror, It has 
two towers, one of which is surmounted by a wooden spire 
covered with lead, and is of the prodigious height of 395 
French feet ; the other is 236 feet high. The additional 
wooden spire, and the inequality of the tov/ers, produce 
rather an unfavourable effect. During the revolution, this 
ausjust edifice was converted into a sulphur and gunpowder 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 55 



CATHEDRAI,.-— ST. OUENS. 

manufactory, by which impious prostitution, the pillars are 
defaced and broken, and the whole is blackened and dingy. 
The costly cenotaphs of white marble, enriched with va- 
luable ornaments containing the hearts of our Henry III, 
and Richard I, kings of England, and dukes of Normandy, 
which were formerly placed on each side of the grand altar- 
piece, were removed during the revolution. The altarpiece 
is very fine. Grand preparations were making for the in- 
auguration of the Archbishop, which was to take place the 
following Sunday. There v/ere not many people at mass ; 
those who were present, appeared to be chiefly composed of 
old women, and young children. Over the cliarity box, 
fastened to one of the pillars, was a board, upon which was 
written in large letters ** Flospices rcconnoissance etprospe- 
rite a. Thomme genereux et sensible," I saw few people 
affected by this benedictory appeal. 

I next visited the church of St. Ouens, which is not so 
large as the cathedral, but surpasses that, and crtry other 
sacred edifice I ever beheld, in point of elegance. This 
graceful pile, has also had its share of sufferings, durino- the 
reign of revolutionary barbarism. Its chaste, and eleo-ant 
pillars, have been violated hy the smoke of sulphur and 
wood ; and in many places, present to the distressed eye, 
chasms, produced hy massy forges, which were erected 
against them, for casting ball. The costly railing of bras?, 
gilt, which half surrounded the altar, has been torn up, and 
melted into cannon. The large circular stained window 
over the entrance called La Ptose dn Portail, is very beauti- 
ful, and wholly unimpaired. The organs in all the churches 
are broken and uselsss. They experienced this fate, in 



56 tHE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 

ST. OUENS. PRINCE OF WALDEC. 

consequence of their having been considered as fanatical in- 
struments during the time of terror. The fine organ of 
St. Ouens, is in this predicament, and will require much 
cost to repair it.* 

I cannot help admiring the good sense which in all the 
churches of France is displayed, by placing the organ upon 
a gallery over the grand entrance, by which the spectator 
has an uninterrupted view, and commands the whole length 
of the interior building. In the English cathedrals, it is 
always placed midway between the choir and church, by 
which, this desired effect is lost — St. Ouens is now opea 
for worship. 

In spite of all the devastations of atheistic "Vandalism, 
this exquisite building, like the holy cause to which it is 
consecrated, having withstood the assailing storm, and ele- 
vating its meek but magnificent head, above its enemies, is 
mildly ready to receive them into her bosom, still disfigured 
with the traces of blind and barbarous ferocity. 

Behind the altar, I met the celebrated prince of Waldec^ 
He, who possessed of royal honours, and ample domains, 
revolted in the day of battle, from his imperial master, and 
joined the victorious and pursuing foe. I beheld him in a 
shaded corner of one of the cloisters of St. Ouens, in poor 
attire, with an old umbrella under his arm, scantily provi- 
ded for, and scarcely noticed by his new friends. A 
melancholy, but just example, of the rewards due to 
treachery and desertion. 

* The ornaments of the churches of England experienced a simi- 
lar fate from the commissioners of the Long Parliament, in 1G43- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 57 

THE MAID Of ORLEANS. 

I have described these churches only generally ; it can- 
not be expected of me to enter into an elaborate history 
of them, or of any other public edifices. The detail, if 
attempted, might prove dull, and is altogether incompatible 
with the limited time and nature of my excursion. 

After we left St. Ouens, we visited the Square aux Vaux, 
where the celebrated heroine of Lorrain, Joan d'Arc, com- 
monly called the Maid of Orleans, was cruelly burnt at the 
stake, for a pretended sorceress, but in fact to gratify the 
barbarous revenge of the Duke of Bedford, the then Regent 
of France; because after signal successes, she conducted her 
sovereign, Charles, in safety, to Rheims, where he was 
crowned, and obtained decisive victories over the English 
arms. We here saw the statue erected by the French, to 
the memory of this remarkable woman, which as an object 
Df sculpture, seems to possess very little worthy of notice. 



u 



58 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER VI. 

The First ConsuVs Advertiseirient. — Somethi?ig ridiculous, — ■ 
Eggs. — Criminal Military Tribunal.' — French Female Con^ 
jidence. — Town house, — 'Convent of Jesuits,— 'Guillotine, — 
Governor W' . 

U PON looking up against the corner wall of a street, 
surrounded by parti-coloured advertisements of quack medi- 
cines, wonderful cures, new invented essences, judgments of 
cassation, rewards for robbers, and bills of the opera, I be- 
held Bonaparte's address to the people of France, to elect 
him First Consul for life. I took it for granted that the 
Spanish proverb of " tell me with whom you are, and I 
** will tell you what you are," was not to be applied in 
this instance, on account of the company in which the Con-- 
sular application^ by a mere fortuitous coincidence, happen- 
ed to be placed. 

A circumstance occurred at this time, respecting this 
election, which was rather ridiculous, and excited conside- 
rable mirth at Paris. Upon the first appearance of the 
election book of the First Consul, in one of the depart- 
ments, some wag, instead of subscribing his name, imme- 
diately under the title of the page, *« Shall Napoleone Bo- 
naparte be First Consul for life ?" wrote the following 
words, '« I can't tell.'* ~v 

This trifling affair affords rather a favourable impression 
of the mildness of that government, which could inspire 
sufficient confidence to hazard such a stroke of pleasantry. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 59 

EGGS, CRIMINAL MILITAHY TRIBUNAL. 

It reached Mai Maison with great speed, but is said to have 
occasioned no other sensation there, than a little merriment, 
Carnot*s bold negative was a little talked of, but as it was 
solitary, it was considered harmless. 

To the love of finery, which the French still retain to a 
certain degree, I could alone attribute the gay appearance of 
the eggs in the market, upon which had been bestowed a 
very smart stain of lilac colour. The effect was so singular 
that I could not help noting it down. 

On the third day after our arrival In this city, we at- 
tended the trial of a man who belonged to one of the ban- 
ditti which infest the country round this city. The court 
was held in the hall of the ancient parliament house, and was 
composed of three civil judges (one of whom presided) three 
military judges, and two citizens. The arrangements of the 
court, which was crowded, were excellent, and afforded un- 
interrupted accommodations to all its members, by separate 
doors and passages allotted to each, and also to the people, 
who were permitted to occupy the large area in front, which 
gradually rose from the last seats of the persons belonging to 
the court, and enabled every spectator to have a perfect view 
of the whole. Appropriate moral mottoes were inscribed in 
characters of gold, upon the walls. The judges wore long 
laced bands, and robes of black, lined with light blue silk, 
with scarfs of "blue and silver fringe, and sat upon an eleva- 
ted semicircular bench, raised upon a flight of steps, placed 
in a large alcove, lined with tapestry. The secretaries and 
subordinate officers, were seated below them. On the left 
the prisoner was placed, without irons, in the custody of 



§Q THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



CKIMINAL MILITARY TRIBUNAL. 



two gen&d*armes, formerly called marechaussees, who had 
their long swords drawn. These soldiers have a military- 
appearance, and are a fine, and valuable body of men. I 
fear the respectable impression which I would wish to con- 
vey of them will suffer, when I inform my reader, that 
they are servants of the police, and answer to our Bow- 
street runners. The swiftness with which they pursue and 
apprehend offenders, is surprising. We were received with 
politeness, and conducted to a convenient place for hearing 
and seeing all that passed. The Accusateur-general, who sat 
on the left, wore a costume similar to that of the judges, 
without the scarf. He opened the trial by relating the cir- 
cumstances, and declaiming upon the enormity of the of- 
fence, by which it appeared that the prisoner stood charged 
■with robbery, accompanied with breach of hospitality ; 
which, in that country, be the amount of the plunder ever 
so trifling, is at present capital. The address of the public 
accuser was very florid and vehement, and attended by 
violent gestures, occasionally graceful. The pleaders of 
Normandy are considered as the most eloquent men in 
France, 1 have heard several of them, but they appear to 
me to be too impassioned. Their motions in speaking 
frequently look like madness. He ransacked his language 
to furnish himself with reproachful epithets against the mis- 
erable wretch by the side of him, who, with his hands in 
his bosom, appeared to listen to him with the greatest sang 
froid. The witnesses, who were kept separate previous to 
their giving their evidence, were numerous, and proved ma- 
ny robberies against him, attended with aggravated breaches 
of hospitality. The court entered into proofs of offences 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 61 

CRIMINAL MILITARY TRIBUNAL. 

committed by the prisoner at different times, and upon 
different persons. The women who gave their testimony, 
exhibited a striking contrast between the timidity of English 
females, confronting the many eyes of a crowded court 
of justice, and the calm self-possession with which the 
French ladies here delivered their unperturbed testimony. 
The charges were clearly proved, and the prisoner was 
called upon for his defence. Undismayed, and with all 
the practised hardihood of an Old Bailey felon, he calmly 
declared, that he purchased the pile of booty produced in 
the court, for sums of money, the amount of which he 
did not then know, of persons he could not name, and 
in places which he did not remember. He had no 
advocate. The subject was next resumed, and closed soon 
after by the official orator who opened it. The court reti- 
red, and the criminal was re-conducted to the prison behind 
the hall. After an absence of about twenty minutes, a bell 
rang to announce the return of the judges, the prisoner re- 
entered, escorted by a fJe of national guards, to hear his 
fate. The court then resumed its sitting. The president 
addressed the unhapp}^ man, very briefly, recapitulated his 
offences, and read the decree of the republic upon them, by 
which he doomed him to lose his head at four o'clock that 
afternoon. 

It was then ten minutes past one ! ! The face of this 
wretched being presented a fine subject for the pencil. His 
countenance was dark, marked, and melancholy ; over it 
was spread the sallow tint of long imprisonment. His 
beard was unshorn, and he displayed an indifference to his 
fate, which not a little surprised me. He immediately re- 



69 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 

CRIMINAL MILITARY TRIBUNAL. 

tired, and upon his return to his cell, a priest was sent for 
to prepare him for his doom. 

At present, in the provinces, all criminal offences are 
tried before military tribunals, qualified, as I have described 
this to be^ by a mixture of civil judges and bourgeois. 

It is one of the peculiar characteristics of such tribunals, to 
order immediate punishment after conviction. In the present 
instance, the fate of the offender was well known, for his 
crimes were many and manifest ; and, as the interval allowed 
by military courts, between the sentence and its fulfilment, 
is so very short, the administrators of the law had postponed 
his trial for five months from the period of his commitment, 
for the purpose of affording him an indulgent procrastina- 
tion. This mode, although arising from merciful motives, 
is, I am awafe, open to objection ; but it would be unfair 
to comment upon laws, which prevailed in times of revolu- 
tion, and are permitted only to operate, until the fine fabric 
of French criminal jurisprudence, which is now construct- 
ing, shall be presented to the people. To the honour of 
our country, and one of the greatest ornaments of the Brit- 
ish bar, the Hon. T. Erskine, in the year 17S9, furnished 
the French with some of these great principles of criminal 
law, which it was impossible to perfect during the long sera 
of convulsion and instability v/hich followed, and which 
will constitute a considerable part of that great, and hu- 
mane code, which is about to be bestowed upon the 
nation, and which will, no doubt, prove to be one of the 
greatest blessings, which human wisdom can confer upon 
human weakness. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 63 

THE TOWN HOUSE. 

Its foundation is nearly similar to that of our own. 
The great and enlightened genius whose name I have men- 
tioned, has provided that the contumacy of one juryman 
shall not be able to force the opinion of the rest. 

After the court had broken up, I visited the town 
house, which, before the revolution, was the monastery of 
the Benedictines, who, from what appeared of the remains 
of their establishment, must have been magnificently lodged, 
and well deserved during their existence, to bear the name 
of the Blessed. The two grand stair-cases are very fine, and 
there is a noble garden behind. Upon entering the vesti- 
bule of the Council chamber, formerly the refectory, I 
thought I was sroing; behind the scenes of a theatre. It 
was nearly filled with allegorical bamners, pasteboard and 
canvas arches of triumph, altars, emblems of liberty, and 
despotism, and all the scenic decorations suitable to the 
frenzied orgies of a republican fete. Thank God 1 they 
appeared to be tolerably well covered with dust and 
cobwebs; 

At the end of this noble room, seated upon a high 
pedestal, was the goddess of Liberty, beautifully executed in 
marble. " Look at that sanguinary prostitute,'* cried 

Mons. G , to me, pointing to the statue, " for years 

have we had liberty and bloodshed, thank heaven ! we are 
now no longer free.'*'' Upon which, he wrote his name 
in the First Consults book, which was here lying open 
upon a table, for the purpose of receiving the suffrages of 

the department. The laconic irony, and manner of the 

speaker, afforded me a tolerably good display of the nature 



64 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

CONVENT OF JESUITS, 

of the blessings conferred upon the French, by their late 
political philosophy. 

From this place I proceeded to the ci-devant Convent 
of the Jesuits, built by one of the munificent Dukes dc 
Bourbon. It is a magnificent oblong stone building. 

In the centre of the court was a tree of liberty, which, 
like almost all the other trees, dedicated to that goddess, 
which 1 saw, looked blighted and sickly. I mention it as 
a fact, without alluding to any political sentiment what- 
ever. It is a remark in frequent use in France, that the 
caps of liberty are without heads, and the trees of liberty 
without root. The poplar has been selected from all the 
other trees of the forest, for this distinguished honour, from 
a whimsical synonymy of its name with that of the people. 
In' French, the poplar is called peuplier, and the word 
peuple signifies people. 

This fine building is now converted into an university 
of learning, and the fine arts. From the small number of 
students, I should suppose the fashionable fervor of study 
had not as yet reached Rouen. 

The professor of philosophy, with great politeness, sent 
a young man to show me the museum of pictures, for 
which purpose the church of the Jesuits, is at present used. 
There are several paintings in it ; the only fine one was a 
dying Jesus by Vandyke, which was exquisite. Upon my 
expressing my admiration, a young student near me, said 
" oui Monsieur c'est tres jolie." This misapplied remark, 
from an easy and natural combination of sound, could not 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE^ Kjo 



GUILLOTINE. 

fail of seeming a little singular as applied to such a subjectj 
but every thing that pleases in France is ties jolie. From 
this painting, 1 was, by importunity^ led to view the other 
parts of the collection, which were composed of large pic- 
tures, by French masters ; and so natural is local preju- 
dice, every where, that 1 was almost held down before the 
works of the de^i artists of Rouen, upon which, as I am at 
liberty /itre, 1 shall beg to make no commenti 

In the students' room, beloWj were some paintings, 
curious and valuable only from their great antiquity, and 
a few good copies by the pupils. A picture was pointed 
out to me as a very fine thing ; the subject was a fat little 
cherub, with a full flowing wig, fiddling to St. Francis, 
who, from his gloomy appearance, seemed not to possess half 
the musical genius of a dancing bear. 

Upon my return through the market place, I beheld, 
the miserable wretch, at whose trial I v/as present in the 
morning, led out to execution. He was seated upon the 
bottom of a cart, stripped above to his shirt, which was 
folded back ; his arms were pinioned close behind, and his 
hair was closely croppedj to prevent the stroke of the fatal 
knife from being impeded. A priest was seated in a chair 
beside him. ..,-_^- - 

As the object of my excursion was to contemplate the 
manners of the people, I summoned resolution to view this 
gloomy and painful spectacle, which seemed to excite but 
little sensation in the market place, where its petty traffic 
and concerns proceeded with their accustomed activity, and 

I 



66 THE STRANGEll IN FRANCE. 

GUILLOTINE. 

the women at their stalls, which extended to the foot of the 
scaffold, appeared to be impressed only with the solicitude 
of selling their vegetables to the highest bidder, 

A small body of the national guards, and a few boys 
and idlers, surrounded the fatal spot. Tiie guillotine, 
painted red, was placed upon a scaffold, of about five feet 
high. As soon as the criminaj ascended the upper step 
which led to it, he mounted, by the direction of the 
executioner, a little board, like a shutter, raised upright to 
receive hirn, to which he was strapped, turned down flat, 
and run into a small ring of iron, half opened, and made to 
admit the neck, the top part of which was then closed 
upon it; a black leather curtain was placed before the head, 
from which a valve depended, which communicated to a 
tub, placed under the scaffold to receive the blood, the ex- 
ecutioner then touched a long thin iron rod, connected with 
the top of the instrument, and in a moment the axe descend- 
ed, which was in the form of a square, cut diagonally, hea- 
vily charged with lead. The executioner and his assistants 
placed the body in a shell, half filled with saw dust, which 
was almost completely stained over with the brown blood 
of former executions ; they then picked up the head, from 
a bag into which it had fallen within the curtain, and hav- 
ing placed it in the same gloomy depository, lovv^ered the 
whole down to the sextons, who, covering it with a pall, 
bore it off to the place of burial. 

The velocity of this mode of execution can alone re- 
commend it. The pangs of death are passed almost in the 
jiame moment^ which presents to the terrified eye of the suffer- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 67 

GOVERNOR W . 

er, the frightful apparatus of his disgraceful dissolution. It is 
a dreary subject to discuss ; but surely it is a matter of deep 
regret, that in England, criminals doomed to die, from the 
uncertain and lingering nature of their annihilation, are seen 
writhing in the coiivulsions of death during a ])eriod dread- 
ful to think of. It is said, that at the late memorable 
execution of an African governor for murder, the miserable 
delinquent was beheld iox fifteen minutes struggling with thfe 
torments of his untimely fate 1 The guillotine is infinitely 
pi^eferabie to the savage mode, formerly used in France, of 
breaking the criminal upon the wheel, and leaving him 
afterwards to perish in the most poignant agonies. 

As I have alluded to the fate of Governor W , I 

will conclude this chapter by relating an anecdote of the 
terror and infatuation of guilt, displayed in the conduct of 
this wretched man, in the presence of a friend of mine^ 
from whom I received it, 

A few years before he suffered, fatigued with life, and 
pursued by poverty, and the frightful remembrance of his 
offences, then almost forgotten by the world, he left the 
South of France for Calais, with an intention of passing 
over to England, to offer himself up to its laws, not 
without the cherished hope that a lapse of twenty years had 
swept av/ay all evidence of his guilt. 

At the time of his arrival at this port town, the hotel in 

which Madame H was waiting for a packet to Dover, 

was very crowded ; the landlord requested of her, that she 
would be pleased to permit two gentlemen, who were 
going to England, to take some refreshment in her room ; 



6S THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

GOVERNOR W 

these persons proved to be the unfortunate Brooks, a king'* 
messenger, charged with important dispatches to his court, 

and Governor W -. The latter was dressed like a 

decayed gentleman, and bore about him all the indications 
of his extreme condition. They had not been seated at 
the table long, before the latter informed the former, with 

evident marks of perturbation, that his name w^as W , 

that having been charged in England with offences, which, 
if true, subjected him to heavy punishment, he was anxious 
to place himself at the disposal of its laws, and requested of 
him, as he was an English messenger, that he would con- 
sider him as his prisoner, and take charge of him. 

The messenger, who was much surprised by the appli- 
(cation, told him, that he could not, upon such a representa- 
tion, take him into custody, unless he had an order from the 
Duke of Portland's office to that effect, and that, in order 
to obtain it, it would be proper for him to write his name, 
that it might be compared with his hand-writing in the office 
of the Secretary of war, which he offered to carry with him. 
Governor W . still pressed him to take him into custo- 
dy ; the messenger more stongly declined it, by informing 
him that he was bearer of dispatches of great importance to 
his court, that he must immediately cross the Channel, and 
should hazard a passage, although the weather looked low- 
ering, in an open boat, as no packets had arrived,-and that 
consequently it was altogether impossible to take him over, 
but again requested him to write his name, for the purpose 
already mentioned ; the governor consented, pens and 
paper were brought, but the hand of the murderer shook so 
idreadfully, that he could not write it, and in an agony of 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 69 

GOVERNOR W . 

mind, bordering upon frenzy, he rushed out of the room, 
^nd immediately left the town. 

The messenger entered the boat, and set sail ; a storm 
quickly followed, the boat sunk in sight of the pier y and all 
on board but one of the watermen, perished ! ! ! 

The great disposer of human destiny, in vindication of 
his eternal justice, rescued the life of this infatuated delin-? 
quent from the waves, and from a sudden death, to resign 
him to the public and merited doom of the laws. 



yO THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Filial Tiety. — ^t. Catharine s Mount — Madame Phiilope.-— 
General Rufin'^ s Trumpet. — Generosity^ — hotie infectious* 
Masons and Gardeners, 



I 



Have before bad occasion to mention the humane con- 
duct of Madame G towards the persecuted abbe ; she 

soon afterwards, with the principal ladies of the city, fell 
under the displeasure of Robespierre, and his agents. Their 
only crime v/as wealth, honourably acquired. A com- 
mittee, composed of the most worthless people of Rouen, 
was formed, who, in the name of, and for the use of the 

nation, seized upon the valuable stock of Messrs. G -, 

who were natives of France. In one night, by torchlight, 
there extensive warehouses were sacked, and all their stores 
were forcibly sold In the public market-place to the best 
bidder ; the plundered merchants were paid the amount of 
the sale in assignats, a paper currency, which then bore 
an enormous discount, and shortly afterwards retained only 
the value of the paper upon which the national note was 
written. In short, in a few hours, an honourable family, 
nobly allied, were despoiled of property to the amount of 
25,000,^. sterling. Other Merchants shared the same fate. 
This act of robbery was followed by an act of cruelty. 

Madame G , the mother, who was born in England, 

and who married a French gentleman of large fortune, 
whom she survived, of a delicate frame, and advanced in 
years, was committed to prison, where, with many other 
female sufferers, she was closely confined for eleven 
months, during which time she was compelled to endure 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 71 

FILIAL PIETY. 

all sorts of privations. After the committee of rapine had 
settled their black account, and had remitted the guilty- 
balance to their employers, the latter, in a letter of 
** friendly- collusion, and fraudulent familiarity." after 
passing a few revolutionary jokes upon what had occurred, 

observed that the G s seemed to bleed very freely, and 

that, as it was likely they must have credit with many per- 
sons to a large amount, directed their obedient and active 
banditti to order these devoted gentlemen, to drav7, and to 
deliver to them their draughts, upon all such persons who 
stood indebted to their extensive concern. In the words of 
a celebrated orator,* " Though they had shaken the tree 
" till nothing remained upon the leafless branches, yet a 
*' new flight was on the wing, to watch the first buddings 
*' of its prosperity, and to nip every hope of future foliage 
«^ and fruit.'* 

The G— — s expected this visit, and, by an Ingenious, 
and justified expedient, prevented their perdition from be- 
comino: decisive. 

Soon after the gates of the prison were closed upon 

Madame G , her eldest son, a man of commanding 

person, and eloquent address, in defiance of every friendly, 
and of every aff^ectionate intreaty, flew to Paris, 

It was in the evening of the last winter which beheld its 
snows crimsoned with revolutionary carnage, when he pre- 
sented himself, undismayed, before that committee, whose 
borrible nature will be better described by m.erely relating 

* Vide Sheridan's oration against Hastings upon the Begum charge. 



72 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE* 

FILIAL PIETY. 

the names of its members, then sitting, than by the most 
animated and elaborate delineations of all its deadly deeds of 
rapine and of blood. 

At a table, covered with green cloth, shabbily lighted, 
in one of the committee rooms of the National Assembly^ 
were seated Robespierre, Collot d'Herbois, Carnot, and 
David. They were occupied in filling up the lists for the 
permanent guillotine, erected very near them, in la Place de 
la Revolution, which the executioners were then clearing of 
its gore, and preparing for the next day*s butchery. In this 
devoted capital, more blood had, during that day, streamed 
upon the scaffold, than on any one day during the revolution. 

The terrified inhabitants, in darkness, in remote re- 
cesses of their desolate houses, were silendy offering up a 
prayer to the great God of Mercy, to release them in a way 
most suitable to his wisdom, from such scenes of deep dis- 
may, and remorseless slaughter. 

Robespierre, as usual, was dressed with great neatness 
and gaiety ; the savage was generally scented, whilst his as- 
sociates were habited, en Jacobin, in the sqalid, filthy fashion 
of that era of the revolution, in the dress of blackguards. 

Mr. G — — bowed, and addressed them very respect- 
fully. " I am come, citizens, before you," said this amia- 
ble son, ''^ to implore the release of my mother ; she is 
** pining in the prisons of Rouen, without having com- 
*' mitted any offence ; she is in years ; and if her confine- 
" ment continues, her children, whose fortunes have been 
** placed at the disposal of the national exigencies, will have 



tHi: STRANGER IN FRANCfe. ti 

FILIAL PIETY 

** to lament her death ; grant the prayer of her son, restorcj 
*' I conjure you, by all the rights of nature, restore her to 
*' her afflicted family." Robespierre looked obliquely at 
him, and with his accustomed sharpness, interrupted him 
from proceeding further, by exclaiming, " what right have 
^^ you to appear before us, miscreant ? you are an agent 
** of Pitt and Cobourg (the then common phrase of re- 
*' proach) you shall be sent to the guillotine. — Why are you 

«* not at the frontiers ?" Monsieur G , unappalled, 

replied, *' give me my mother, and I will be there to-mor- 
«' row, I am ready instantly to spill my blood, if it must 
*^ be the price o'l her discharge." Robespierre, whose sav- 
age soul was occasionally moved by sights of heroic virtue, 
seemed impressed by this brave and unusual address. He 
paused, and a ter whispering a few words to his associates^ 
wrote the discharge, and handing it over to a soldier, for 
the successful petitioner, he fiercely told him to retire. 

Mr. G instantly set out for Rouen, where, after a 

long and severe journey, he arrived, exhausted with fa- 
tigue and ao^tation of mind ; without refreshment, this 
excellent man flew to the gates of the prison, which con- 
tained his mother, and presented the discharge to the gaol- 
er, who drily, with a brutal grin, informed him^ that a 
trick had been played off upon him, that he had just receiv- 
ed a counter order, which he held in his hand, and refused 
to release her ! ! ! 

It turned out, that immediately after Mr. G- had 

left the committee room, the relenting disposition, which 
he had momentarily awakened in the barbarous breast of 
Robespierre, had subsided. 

K 



74 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



ST. CATHARINE S MOUNT. 



The generous sentiment was of a short, and sickly 
growth, and withered under the gloomy, fatal shade of his 
sanguinary nature. A chasseur had been dispatched with 
the counter-order, who passed the exulting, but deluded 
G -, on the road. 

A short time after this, and a few days before Madame 

G , and her unhappy companions, were to have perished 

on the scaflFold, the gates of their prison flew open, the world 
was released from a monster — Robespierre was no more. 

This interesting recital I received from one of the amia- 
ble sufferers, in our way to St. Catharine's Mount. The 
story afforded a melancholy contrast to the rich and cheer- 
ful scenes about us. 

From the attic story of a lofty house, built under this 
celebrated cliff, we ascended that part of it, which, upon 
the road to Paris, is only accessible in this manner. When 
we reached the top, the prospect was indeed superb ; on 
one side we traced for miles, the romantic meanders of the 
Seine, every where forming little islands of poplars ; before 
us, melting away in the horizon, were the blue mountains 
of Lower Normandy ; at their feet, a variegated display of 
meadows, forests, corn-fields, and vineyards ; immediately 
below us, the city of Rouen, and its beautiful suburbs. 
This delicious, and expanded prospect, we enjoyed upon a 
seat erected near a little oratory, which is built upon the 
top of the mountain, resting, at one end, upon the pedestal 
of a cross, which, in the times of the revolution, had been 
shattered and overturned. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 75 

GENERAL RUFFIN'S TRUMPET. 

From this place, before dinner, we proceeded to la 
Montagne ; a wild and hilly country, lying opposite to St. 
Catharinci's. Here we were overtaken by a storm, upon 
which, a Icure, who had observed us from his little cottage, 
not far distant, and v^^ho had been very lately reinstated in 
the cure of the church, in the neighbouring village, came 
out to us, with an umbrella, and invited us to dinner. 
Upon our return to our inn, to dress, we were annoyed by 
a nuisance which had before frequently assailed us. I knew 
a man, who in a moment of ill humour, vented rather a re- 
vengeful wish that the next neighbour of his enemy might 
have a child, who was fond of a whistle and a drum ! A 
more insufferable nuisance was destined for us ; the person 
who lodged in the next room to mine, was a beginner (and 
a dull one too) upon the trumpet. It was General Ruffin, 
whom I have mentioned before, forcing from this brazen 
tube, sounds which certainly would have set a kennel of 
hounds in a cry of agony, and were almost calculated to 
disturb the repose of the dead. General Ruffin, in all other 
respects, was a very polite, and indeed a very quiet young 
man, and a brave warrior ; but in the display of his passion 
for music, I fear he mistook either his talent or his instru- 
ment. At one time we thought of inviting him to dine 
with us, that we might have a little respite, but after deba- 
tino' the matter well over, we conceived that to entertain an 
Italian hero, as he ought to be received by those who ad- 
mire valour even in an enemy, was purchasing silence at a 
very advanced price, so we submitted to the evil with that 
resignation which generally follows the incurable absence of 
a remedy. We now addressed ourselves to Madame 



16 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



MADAME PHI [.LOPE. 



-, to know how lon^ the creneral had learned the 



trumpet, and whether his leisure hours were generally oc-* 

cupied in this way. Madame P >, was, strange to tell, 

not very able to afford us much information upon the 
subject. She was under the influence of love. The natu-? 
ral ti-anquillity of her disposition, v/as improved by the 
prospect of connubial happiness, which, although a wid« 
ow, and touching the frontier of her eight and thirtieth 
year, she shortly expected to receive from the son of a 
neighbouring architect, who was then a minor. In this 
blissful frame of mind, our fair hostess scarcely knew wherji 
the trumpet of General Ruffin sounded. Her soul was in 
harmony with all the world, and it was not in the power 
of the demon of discord, nor even of this annoying brazen 

tube, to disturb her. Madame P well deserved to be 

blessed with such equanimity, and if she liked it, with such 
u lover, for she was a generous and good creature, 

A gentleman to whom I was afterwards introduced, 
when the revolution began to grow hot, fled with his lady 
and his children into a foreign country, where, upon the 
relics of a shattered fortune, he remained until things wore 
a better aspect, and enabled him, with a prospect of safety, 
to return to his native country. In better times, upon his 
annual visits to a noble chateau and large estates, which he 
once possessed in this part of Normandy, he was accus- 
tomed to stop at the Hotel ds Poitiers. His equipage was 
then splendid, and suitable to his affluent circumstances. 
Upon his return to France, this gentleman, harassed by 
losses, and fatigued by sickness, arrived with his lady, and 
their beautiful children, in a hired cabriole, at the eate of 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ^1 

^ 

MADAME PHILLOPE. 

Madame P . As soon as their name was announced, 

the grateful hostess presented herself before them, and kiss- 
ing the children, burst into tears of jo}'- ; when she had re- 
-covered herself, she addressed her old patron, by expressing 
iier hopes, that he had amended his fortune abroad, and 
was now returning to enjoy himself in tranquillity at home. 

*' Alas ! my good Madame P ," said this worthy 

gentleman, " we left our country, as you know, to save 
*' our lives ; we have subsisted upon the remains of our for- 
*' tune ever since, and have sustained heavy and cruel los- 
** ses ; we have been taken prisoners upon our passage, 
*' and are now returning to our home, if any is left to us, to 
** solicit some reparation for our sufferings. Times are 

*' altered, Madame P , you must not now consider me 

" as formerly, when I expended the gifts of Providence in 
*' a manner which I hope was not altogether unworthy of 
*' the bounty which showered them upon me, we must 
" bow down to "such dispensations ; you see I am candid 
*^ with you ; we are fatigued, aud want refreshment, give 
*' us, my good landlady, a, little plain dinner, such as is 
*' suitable to our present condition." 

Madame P was so much affected, that she could 

make no reply, and left the room. 

Immediately all the kitchen was in a bustle, every pot 
and pan were placed in instant requisition ; the chamber- 
maids were sent to the neighbouring confectioners for 
cakes, and the porter was dispatched all over the city for 
the chcficest fruits. In a short time, a noble dinner was 
served up to this unfortunate family, followed by confection- 
ary, fruits, and burgundy. When the repast was over. 



78 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



GENEROSITY. LOVE INFECTIOUS. 



Mons. O ordered his bill, and his cabriole to be got 

ready. Madame V entered, and in the most amiable 

manner, requested him, as she had exceeded his orders, to 
consider the dinner as a little acknowledgment of her sense 
of his past favours ; money, though earnestly pressed upon 
her, she would not receive. 

The whole of this interesting party were moved to 
tears, by this little act of nature and generosity. When 
they entered their carriage, they found in it bouquets of 
flowers, and boxes of cakes for the children. No doubt 
Madame P — ■■ — moved lighter that day than she ever did 
in her life, and perhaps found the remembrance of her con- 
duct upon this occasion, almost as exquisite as the hours of 
love, which she appeared most happily to enjoy when we 
bad the honour of being under her roof. , 

Monsieur O could not help exhibiting much feel- 
ing when he related this little event to me. I must not fail 
to mention, that all the house seemed, for the moment, in- 
fected with the happy disease of the mistress. General 
Ruffin's valet de chambre was in love with Dorothee, our 
chamber-maid ; the porter was pining for a little black-eyed 
grisette, who sold prints and pastry in a stall opposite ; and 
the ostler was eternally quarrelling with the chef de cuisine, 
who repelled him from the kitchen, which, in the person 
of the assistant cook, a plump rosy Norman girl, contained 
all the treasure of his soul. Love and negligence reigned 
throughout the household. We rans: the bells, and sacre 
dieu'djbut all In vain; we suffered great inconvenience, hit 
xrho could be angry ? In the course of our walks and con-^ 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 79 



MASONS AND GARDENERS. 

versations with the workmen whom we met, we found 
that most of the masons and gardeners of Rouen, had fought 
in the memorable, bloody, and decisive battle of Marengo, 
at which it appears that'a great part of the military of France, 
within four or five hundred miles of the capital, were pre- 
sent. The change they presented was worthy of observa- 
tion : we saw men sun-browned in campaigns, and inured 
to all the ferocity of war, at the sound of peace, assuming all 
the tranquil habits of ingenious industry, or rustic simpli- 
city. Some of them were occupied in forming the shapeless 
stone into graceful embellishments for elegant houses, and 
others in disposing, with botanic taste, the fragrant parterre. 
After spending four very delightful days in this agreeable 
city, I bade adieu to my very worthy companion. Captain 

W. C ', (whose intention it was to spend some time 

here,) and those friends, from whom I had received great at- 
tention and hospitality, and wishing the amiable Madame 

P , many happy years, and receiving from her the same 

assurances of civility, about seven o'clock in the evening I 
seated myself in the diligence for Paris, and in a comfortable 
corner of it, after we had passed the pave, resigned myself 
to sleep. 



80 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Earl^ dinner, — Manie. — -Frost. — Duke dc Sully.' — <Approack 
the CapUaL — -Norman Barrier. — -Paris. — Hotel de Rouen* 
— Palais Roi/aL 

jCjlT day break, the appearance of the country in all 
directions, was delightful. The faint eastern blush of early 
morn, threw a mild refreshing light over the moist and dew 
dripping scenery. 

The spirit of our immortal bard, awaking from the 
bosom of nature, seemed to exclaim — 

Look love, what envious streaks 

Do lace the severing clouds, in yonder east ; 
Night's candles are burnt out ; and jocund Day 
Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops. 

About eldit oVlock in the morninsf, we arrived at 
Mante, a picturesque town, built upon a fertile mountain^ 
at the base of which the Seine flowed along, rippling against 
its many islands of beautiful poplars. At this hour, upon 
our alighting at the inn, we found a regular dinner ready, 
consisting of soups, meats, fowls, and confectionary. To 
the no small siirprise of the host, I expressed a wish to have 
some breakfast, and at length, after much difficulty, procu- 
ed some coffee and rolls. 

The rest of the party, with great composure, tucked 
their napkins in the butten-holes of their waistcoats, and ap- 
plied themselves to the good things before them, with very 



THE STRANGEH IN FRANCE. Si 

EARLY DINNER.-^THE SEINE. SLAUGHTER-HOUSE. 

active address. What a happy race of people I ready for 
every thing, and at all times ; they scarcely know the 
meaning of inconvenience : In the midst of difficulty^ 
they find accommodation ; v/ith them, every thing seems 
in harmony^ 

After paying thirty sols for ray repast, a charge which 
announced our approach to the capital, I walked on, and 
made my way to the bridge over another winding of the 
Seine, at the bottom of the tov/n ; which is a light and 
elegant structure. The houses along the sides of the river, 
are handsome, and delightfully situated. The principal 
church is a fine gothic building, but is rapidly hastening 
to decay ; some of its pinnacles are destroyed^ and all its 
windows broken in. 

A small chapel, in the street opposite, which had an ap-- 
pearance of considerable elegance, was converted into a 
slaughter-house. Embosomed in woods, on the other side 
of the bridge, is a fine chateau, formerly belonging to the 
Count d' Adhemar ; here while enjoying the enchanting pros- 
pect about me, I heard the jingling approach of our heavy 
diligence, in which, having reseated m^^self, we proceeded 
upon a fine high road, through thick rows of walnut, cher- 
ry, mulberry, and apple trees, for several iniles, on each 
side of which were vineyards, upon whose promising vin- 
tage, the frost had committed sad devastation. For a vast 
extent, they appeared blackened and burnt up. It was said 
that France sustained a loss of two millions sterlings by this 
unusual visitation. 



gg THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

DUKE DE SULLY, APPROACH THE CAPITAL. 

In the course of our journey, I experienced in the con- 
duct of one of our two female companions, an occurrence, 
allied to that which is related by Sterne, of Madame de 
Rambouillet, by which he very justly illustrates the happy 
ease, with which the French ladles prevent themselves from 
ever suffering by inconvenient notions of delicacy, 

A few miles from Mante, on the borders of the Seine, 
we passed one of the venerable chateaus of the celebrated 
duke de Sully, the faithful, able, and upright minister of 
Henry IV. of F" ranee, one of those great geniuses, Avho 
only at distant aeras of time, are permitted to shine out 
amongst the race of men. Historians unite in observing 
that the duke performed all the duties of an active and up- 
right minister, under a master, who exercised all the offices 
of a great and good King ; after whose unhappy fate, this 
excellent man retired from the busy scenes of the world, and 
covered with time and honours, expired in the eighty-second 
year of his age, in the year 1641, at his castle of Villebon. 
The house is plain and large. The grounds are disposed 
after the fashion of ancient times. 

As we approached the capital, the country looked very 
rich and luxuriant. We passed through the forest of St. 
Germains, where there is a noble palace, built upon a lofty 
mountain. Theibrest abounds with game, and formerly 
afforded the delights of the chase to the royal Nimrods of 
France, Its numerous green alleys are between two and 
three miles long, and in the form of radii, unite in a centre. 
The forest and park extend to the barrier, through which 
we immediately entered the town of St, Germains, distant 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 83 

KORMAN BARRIER. 

from Paris about twelve miles, which is a large and populous 
place, and in former periods, during the rojral residence, 
was rich and flourishing, but having participated in the 
ilessings of thtTCYolution, presents an appearance of con- 
siderable poverty, and squalid decay. Here we changed 
horses for the last post, and ran down a fine broad 
paved royal road, through rows of stately elms, upon an 
inclined plain, until the distant and wide, but clear display 
of majestic domes, awful towers, and lofty spires, inform- 
ed us that we approached the capital. I could not help 
comparing them with their " cloud-cappM " brethren of 
London, over whose dim-discovered heads, a floating mass 
of unhealthy smoke, perpetually suspends its heavy length 
of gloom. 

Our carriage stopped at the Norman Barrier, which is 
the grand entrance to Paris, and here presents a magnificent 
prospect to the eye. The barrier is formed of two very 
large, and noble military stone lodges, having porticoes on 
all sides, supported by massy doric pillars. These build- 
ings were given to the nation, by the National Assembly 
in the year 1 792, and are separated from each, other, by a, 
range of iron gates, adorned with republican emblems. 
Upon a gentle declivity, through quadruple rows of elms, 
at the distance of a mile and a half, the gigantic statues of 
la Place de la Concorde, (ci-devant, de la Revolution) ap- 
pear, beyond which, the gardens and the palace of the 
Thuilleries, upon the centre tower of which, the tricolour- 
ed flag was waving, form the back scene of this splendid 
spectacle. Before we entered la Place de la Concorde, we 
passed on each side of us, the beautiful and favourite walks 



84 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

PAKIS. HOTEL DE ROUEN. 

of the Parij?ians, called les Champs Elysees, and afterward* 
on our left, the elegant pulace of the Garde-raeuble ; where ■ 
we entered the streets of Paris, and soon afterwards alighted 
at the bureau of the diligences, from which place I took a 
fiacre (a hackney coach) and about six o'clock in the eve- 
ning presented myself to the tjiistress of the hotel de Rouen, 
for the women of France generally transact all the mascu- 
line duties of the house. To this hotel I was recommended 

by Messrs. G , upon mentioning whose name, I was 

ver}'- politely shown up to a suite of pleasant apartments, 
consisting of an anti-room, bed-room, and dressing-room, 
the two latter were charmingly situated, the windows of 
■which looked out upon an agreeable garden belonging to 
the palace of the Louvre. For these rooms I paid the 
moderate price of three livres a day. Here, after enjoying 
those comforts which travellers after long journles require, 
and a good dinner into the bargain, about nine oVlock at 
night I sallied out to the Palais Royal, a suberb palace built 
by- the late duke d' Orleans, who when he was erecting it, 
publicly boasted, that he would m.ake it one of the great- 
est brothels in Europe, In which prediction he succeeded, to 
the full consummation of his abominable wishes. This palace 
Is now the property of the nation. The grand entrance is 
from the Rue St. Honore, a long street, something resem- 
bling the Piccadilly of London, but destitute, like all the 
other streets of Paris, of that ample breadth, and paved 
footway, for the accommodation of pedestrian passengers, 
which give such a decided superiority to the streets of the 
capital of England, After passing through two noble 
ppurts, I entered the piazza of this amazing pile, which is 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 85 

PALAIS ROYAL. 

built of stone, upon arches, supported by Corinthian pilas- 
ters. Its form is an oblong square, with gardens, and walks 
in the centre. The whole is considered to be about four- 
teen hundred feet long, and three hundred feet broad. The 
finest shops of Paris for jewellery, watches, clocks, man- 
tuamakers, restaurateurs,* china magazines, &c. form the 
back of the piazza, which, on all the sides of this im- 
mense fabric, affords a very fine promenade. These shops 
once made a part of the speculation of their mercenary, and 
abandoned master, to whom they each paid a rent after the 
rate of two or three hundred pounds sterling per annum. 
This place presents a scene of profligate voluptiousness, 
not to be equalled upon any spot in Europe. Women of 
character are almost afraid to appear here at noon day ; and 
' a stranger would conceive, that at night he saw before him, 
one third of the beauty of Paris, 

Under the roof of this palace are two theatres, museums 
of curiosities, the tribunate, gaming houses, billiard rooms, 
buillotte clubs, ball-rooms, &c. all opening into the gardens, 
the windows of which, threw from their numerous lamps and 
lustres, a stream of gay and gaudy hght upon the walks below, 
and afforded the appearance of a vast illumination. At the 
bottom was a large pavilion finely illuminated, in which 
were groups of people regaling themselves with lemonade 
and ices. Upon this spot, in the early part of the revolu- 
tion, the celebrated Camille Desmoulins used to declaim 
against the abuses of the old government, to all the idle and 
disaffected of Paris, It is said that the liveries of the Due 

♦ Restaurateur is now universally used instead of traiteur. 



Se THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

PALAIS ROYAL. 

d' Orleans gave birth to the republican colours, which used 
to be displayed in the hats of his auditors, who in point of 
respectability resembled the motley reformers of Chalk 
Farm. From the carousing rooms under ground, the ear 
was filled with the sound of music, and the buzzing of 
crowds ; in short, such a scene of midnight revelry and 
dissipation, I never before beheld. 

Upon my return to my Hotel, I was a little surprised 
to find the streets of this gay city so meanly lighted. 
JLamps placed at gloomy distances from each other, suspen- 
ded by cords from lofty poles, furnish the only means of 
directins: the footsteps of the nocturnal wanderer* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 8? 



CHAPTER IX. 

French Reception,' — M. Voltaire. — Restaurateur. — Coyisular 
Guard.'— 'Music. — Venetian Horses. — Gates of the Pa- 
lace.'— Gardens of the Thuilleries. — Statues. — The faithful 
Vase.'—' The Sabine Picture. — Monsieur Perrtgaux.--^ 
Marquis dc Chatelet, — Madame Perregaux. — Beaux and 
Belles of Paris. 

J. FORGOT, In my last chapter, to mention, that I paid 
for mj place and luggage in the diligence, from Rouen to 
Paris, a distance of ninety miles, twenty-three llvres and 
eighteen sols. The next morning after my arrival, and a 
good night's repose on a sopha bed, constructed after the 
French fashion, which was very lofty and handsome, and 
very comfortable, I waited upon my accomplished friend, 

Madame H , in the Rue Florentine. I had the 

honour of knowing her when in England, from very early 
years ; I found her with her elegant and accomplished 
daughter, in a suite of large rooms, very handsomely furnish- 
ed after the antique^ which gives to the present fashionable 
furniture of France, its form and character. These rooms 
composed a floor of a noble stone-built house, which con- 
tained several other families ; such Is the customary mode 
of being lodged in the capital. She received me In the 
most charming manner, and had expected me for some 
days previous to ray arrival, and was that evening going to 
her country house at Passi, a few miles from Paris, whither 
she pressed me to accompany her, but I declined it, on ac- 
count of the short time which I had before me to spend in 
Paris. Madame H was not only a beauty, but a 



88 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

VOLTAIRE. RESTAURATEUR. 

woman of wit and learning, and had accordingly admitted 
Voltaire amongst the number of her household gods ; the 
arch old cynic, with his deathlike sarcastic face, admirably 
represented by a small whole length porcelain statue, occu- 
pied the centre of her chimney-piece. Upon finding that I 
was disposed to remain in town, she recommended rae to a 
restaurateur in the gardens of the Thuilleries, one of the first 
eating houses in Paris, for society and entertainment, to the 
master of which she sent her servant, with my name, to in- 
form him that she had recommended an English gentleman 
of her acquaintance to his house, and requested that an 
English servant in his service might attend to me, when I 
dined there. This was a little valuable civility, truly 
French. This house has been lately built under the auspi-* 
ces of the First Consul, from a design, approved of by his 
own exquisite taste ; he has permitted the entrance to open 
into the gardens of the consular palace. The whole is from 
a model of one of the little palaces of the Herculaneum, 
it is upon a small scale, built of a fine white stone ; it 
contains a centre, with a portico, supported by doric pillars 
and two long wings. The front is upon the terrace of the 
gardens, and commands an enchanting view of all its beau* 
tiful walks and statues. On the ground floor, the house is 
divided into three long and spacious apartments, opening 
into each other through centre arches, and which are redou- 
bled upon the view, by immense pier glasses at each end. 
The first room is for dinner parties, the next for ices, and 
the third for coffee. In the middle is a flying staircase, 
lined on each side with orange trees, which ascends into a 
suite of upper dinner rooms, all of which are admirably 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. B9 



CONSULAR GT/ARD. 

painted after the taste of Herculaneum, and are almost lined 
with costly pier glasses. 

My fair countrywomen would perhaps be a little sur- 
prised to be told that elegant women of the first respectability^ 
superbly dressed for the promenade, dine here with their 
friends in the public room, a custom which renders the scene 
delightful, and removes from it the accustomed impressions 
of grossness. Upon entering, the guest is presented with a 
dinner chart, }iandsomely printed, enumerating the different 
dishes provided for that day, with their respective prices 
affixed. All the people who frequent this place are con- 
sidered highly respectable. The visitor is furnished with 
ice for his water decanters, with the best attendance at din- 
ner, and with all the English and foreign newspapers. I 
always dined here when I was not engaged* 

After parting from Madame H , who intended re* 

turning to town the next day, I went to see the consular 
guard relieved at the Thuilleries. About five companies of 
this distinguished regiment, assemble in the gardens exactly 
at five minutes before twelve o'clock, and, preceded by 
their fine band of music, march through the hall of the 
palace, and form the line in the grand court-yard before it, 
where they are joined by a squadron of horse* Their 
uniform is blue, with broad white facings. 

The consular guard were in a little disgrace, and were 
not permitted to do the entire duty of the palace at this time, 
nor during several succeeding days, as a mark of the First 

M 



90 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

CONSULAR GUARD. MUSIC. 

ConsuFs displeasure, which had been excited by some un- 
guarded expression of the common men, respecting his 
conduct, and which, to the jealous ear of a new created and 
imtried authority, sounded like the tone of disaffection. 
Only the cavalry were allowed to mount guard, the infan- 
try were provisionally superseded by a fine regiment of 
hussars. On account of the shortness of this parade, which 
is always dismissed precisely at ten minutes past twelve 
o'clock, it is not much attended. The band is very fine, 
they had a Turkish military instrument, which I never heard 
before, and was used instead of triangles. It was in the 
shape of four canopies, like the roofs of Chinese temples, 
one above another, lessening as they ascended, made of thin 
plates of brass, and fringed with very little brass bells, 
it was supported by a sliding rod which dropped into a 
handle, out of which, when it was intended to be sounded, 
it was suddenly jerked by the musician, and produced a 
o-ood effect with the other instruments. The Tambour 
Major is remarked for his noble appearance, and for the 
proportions of his person, which is very handsome : his 
full dress uniform on the grand parade, is the most 
splendid thing I ever beheld. The corps of pioneers who 
precede the regiment, have a singular appearance. These 
men are rather above six feet high, and proportionably 
made ; they wear fierce mustachios, and long black beards, 
lofty bear skin caps, broad white leathern aprons, which 
almost touch their chins, and over their shoulders carry 
enormous hatchets. Their strange costume seemed to unite 
the dissimilar characters of high priest and warrior. They 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 91 

VENETIAN HORSES.— GATES OF THE PALACE. 

looked like military magi. The common men made a very 
martial appearance. Their officers wore English riding 
boots, which had an unmilitary effect. 

Paris at present exhibits all the appearances of a city in a 
state of siege. The consular palace resembles a line of mag- 
nificent barracks, at the balconies, and upon the terraces of 
which, soldiers are every where to be seen lounging. This 
palace is partitioned between the First and Second Consuls, 
the third principal magistrate resides in a palace near the 
Louvre, opposite to the Thuilleries. The four colossal 
brazen horses, called the Venetian horses, which have been 
brought from Venice, are mounted upon lofty pedestals, on 
each side of the gates of the grand court-yard of the palace. 
When the Roman Emperor Constantine, founded Constan- 
tinople, he attached these exquisite statues to the chariot of 
the Sun in the Hippodromus, or Circus, and when that 
capital was taken possession of by the Venetian and French 
crusading armies, in 1206, the Venetians obtained pos- 
session of them, amongst many other inestimable curiosi- 
ties, and placed these horses in four niches over the great 
door of the church of St. Marco, Respecting their 
previous history, authors very much differ ; some assert 
that they were cast by the great statuary Lysippus, in 
Alexander's time, others that they were raised over the 
triumphal arch of Augustus, others of Nero, and thence 
removed to the triumphal arch of Constantine, from which 
he carried them to his own capital. 

They are said to be composed of bronze and gold, 
which much resembles the famous composition of the 



9^ THE STRANGER f^ FRANCE* 

GARDENS OF THE THUILLERIES. — STATUES. 

Gorinthiaii brass. Although these statues are of an enor- 
mous size, they are too diminutive for the vast pile of 
building which they adorn. The same remark applies to 
the entrance gates of massy iron, which have just been 
raised by the directions of the First Consul. The tri- 
colour flag, mounted upon the centre dome of the 
palace, is also too small. 

From the court yard I entered the gardens, which 
are very beautiful ; at about seven o*clock in the eve- 
ning, they form one of the favourite and fashionable walks 
of the Parisians. They are disposed in regular prome- 
nades, in which are many fine casts from the ancient 
statues, whicli adorn the hall of antiques, and on each side 
are noble orange trees, which grow in vast moveable cases ; 
many of these exotics are twenty feet high. Until lately 
many of the antiques, were placed here, but Bonaparte, 
with his accustomed judgment and veneration for the arts, 
has had them removed into the grand national collection, 
and has supplied their places by these beautiful copies, 
amongst which I particularly distinguished those of Hippo- 
manes, and Atalanta, for the beauty of their proportions, 
^nd the exquisite elucidation of th^ir story. Here are also 
Some fine basins of water, in the middle of which arc 
jets d'eau. 

The gravel walks of the gardens are watered every 
morning in hot weather, and sentinels are stationed at every 
avenue, to preserve order : no person is admitted who is 
the carrier of a parcel, however small. Here are groupes 
of people to be seen, every morning, reading the prints of 
^he day, in the refreshing coolness of the shade. For th^ 



•THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 9S 

THE FAITHFUL VASE.— THE SABINE PICTURE. 

use of a chair in the gardens, of which there are some hun- 
dreds, the proprietor is thankful for the smallest coin of 
the republic. 

At the bottom of the steps, leading to the terrace, 
in front of the palace, are some beautiful vases, of an 
immense size, which are raised about twelve feet from 
the ground : in one of them, which was pointed out to me, 
an unpopular and persecuted Parisian saved nearly all his 
property, during the revolution. A short time before the 
massacre of the 10th of August, 179^9 when the domicili- 
ary visits became frequent and keen, this man, during a 
dark night, stole, unobserved by the guards, into the 
garden, with a bag under his arm, containing almost all his 
treasure ; he made his way to the vase, which, from the 
palace, is on the right hand, next to the Feuillans, and, 
after some difficulty, committed the whole to the capacious 
bosom of the faithful depositary : this done, he retreated in 
safety ; and when the time of terror was passed, fearful 
that he should not be able to raise his bag from the deep 
bottom of the urn without a discovery, which might have 
rendered the circumstance suspicious, and perhaps hazard- 
ous to him, he presented himself before the Minister of the 
Police, verified the narrative of the facts, and was placed 
in the quiet possession of his property, which in this 
manner had remained undisturbed during all that frightful 
period. 

From the gardens I went to the exhibition o{ David's 
celebrated painting of the suspension of the battle between 
the Sabines and the Romans, produced by the wives of the 



94 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

MONSIEUR PEREEGAUX. 

latter, rushing with their children in their arms, between 
the contending warriors. David is deservedly considered 
as the first living artist in France, and this splendid picture 
is worthy of his pencil. It is upon an immense scale. 
All the figures (of which there are many) are as large as 
life. The principal female raising her terrified infant, and 
the two chief combatants, are inimitable. I was informed 
by good authority, that the court of Russia had offered 
J^, 7000 sterling for it, an unexampled price for any modern 
painting ; but that David, who is very rich, felt a reluc- 
tance in parting with it to the Emperor, on account of the 
climate of Russia being; unfavourable to colour. 

From this beautiful painting, I went to pay my respects 

to Mons. O , who resided at the further end of Paris, 

upon whom 1 had a letter of credit. Upon my arriving at 
his hotel, I was informed by the porter that his master was 
at his chateau, about ten miles in the country, with his fam- 
ily, where he lay extremely ill. This news rendered it 
necessary for me to leave Paris for a day and a night at least. 

From Mons. O I went io Mr. Perregaux, the 

rich banker and legislator, to whom I had letters of intro- 
duction. He lives in the Rue Mont Blanc, a street, the 
place of residence of the principal bankers, and is next door 
neighbour to his rival Mons. R , whose lady has oc- 
casioned some little conversation. Mons. P'— — 's hotel is 
very superb. His chief clerks occupy rooms elegantly fit- 
ted up, and decorated with fine paintings. He received 
me in a very handsome manner, in a beautiful little cabinet. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ©5 

MONSIEUR PERREGAUX. 

adorned with some excellent, and costly paintings. After 
many polite expressions from him, I laughingly informed 
him of the dilemma in which I was placed by the unexpec- 
ted absence of Mons. O ; upon which Mons, P , 

in the most friendly manner, told me that the letters which I 
had brought, were from persons whom he highly esteemed ; 

and that Mons. O was also his friend ; that, as it 

might prove inconvenient for me to wait upon him in the 
country, he begged to have the pleasure of furnishing me 
with whatever money I v/anted, upon my own draughts. 
I felt this act of politeness and liberality very forcibly, 
which I of course declined, as I wished not only to take up 
what money I wanted in a regular manner, but I was de- 
sirous of seeing Mons. O , who was represented to me 

as a very amiable man, and his family as elegant and 
accomplished. I was much charmed with the generous 

conduct of Mons. P , from whom I afterwards received 

great attentions, and who is much beloved by the English. 
I felt it a pleasurable duty not to confine the knowledge of 
such an act of liberality to the spot where it was so hand- 
somely manifested. The sessions of the legislative assembly 
had closed the day before my arrival, a circumstance I 
much regretted, as, through his means, I should have been 
enabled to have attended their sittings. The bankers of 
France are immensely rich, and almost command the 
treasury of the nation. Mons. P , with the well- 
timed, silent submission of the flexible reed, in the fable, 
has survived the revolutionary storm, which by a good, 
and guiltless policy, has passed over him, without leaving 
©nc stain upon his honourable character, and has operated^ 



"''■I '(V/. '),'/;/, 



f)6 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

BEAUX AND BELLES OF PARIS. 

like the slime of the Egyptian inundation, only to fructify, 
and increase his fortunes. He once, however, narrowly 
escaped. In the time of Robespierre, the Marquis de 
Chatelet, a few nights before his execution, attempted to 
corrupt his guards, and told them, if they would release 

him, Mons. P would give them a draft to any amount 

which they might choose then to name. The centinels 
rejected the bribe, and informed their sanguinary employer 
of the offer, who had the books of Mons. P-— — investi- 
gated : he was in no shape concerned in the attempted 
escape ; but, hearing with extraordinary swiftness, that 
the Marquis, whose banker he had been, and to whom an 
inconsiderable balance was then due, had implicated him in 
this manner, he instantly, with dexterity, removed the page 
which contained the last account of the unhappy nobleman, 
and also his own destiny, and thus saved his life. Mons. 
P is a widower ; his daughter, an only child, is mar- 
ried to a wealthy General, a man of great bravery, and 
beloved by Bonaparte. 

I dined this day at the Restaurateur's in the Thuilleries, 

and found the effect of Madame H 's charming civility 

to me. There were some beautiful women present, 
dressed after the antique, a fashion successfully introduced 
by David. This extraordinary genius was desirous of 
dressing the beaux of Paris after the same model ; but they 
politely declined it, alleging, that if Mons. David would at 
the same time create another climate, warmer, and more 
regular for them, they would then submit the matter to a 
committee of fashion. The women, though said, in point 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 9^ 

FRENCH LADIES. 

of corporal sufferance, to be able to endure less than men, 
were enchanted with the design of the artist, and, without 
approaching a single degree nearer to the sun, unmindful 
of colds, consumptions, and death, have assumed a dress, 
if such it can be called, the airiness of which, to the eye of 
fancy, looked like the mist of incense, undulating over a 
display of beauty and symmetry, only to be rivalled by 
those exquisite models of grecian taste which first furnished 
them with these new ideas of personal decoration. 

The French ladies every morning anoint their heads 
with the antique oil, scented ; their side locks are formed 
into small circles, which just touch the bosom ; and the 
hair behind is rolled into a rose, by which they produce a 
perfect copy of the ancient bust. 



N 



98 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER X. 

Large Dogs,'-* A Plaii for becoming quicldy acquainted mth 
Paris.— Pa?it/ieon,-—Tom5s oj Voltaire and Rousseau* — 
Politeness of an Emigrant, — The Beaut i/ of France.—' 
Beauti/ evanescent, — Place de Carousel. — Infernal Ma~ 
chine, — Fouche, — Seine,' — 'Washerwomen, — Fishwomen,-^ 
Baths, 

XN the streets of Paris, I every where saw an unusual 
number of very large, fierce looking dogs, partaking of the 
breed of the Newfoundland, and British bulldog. During 
the time of terror, these brave and faithful animals were in 
much request, and are said to have given the alarm of dan- 
ger, and -saved, in several instances, the lives and property 
of their masters, by their accustomed fidelity. 

Upon my arrival in this great capital, I was of course 
desirous of becoming acquainted with its leading features 
as soon as possible, for the purpose of being enabled to 
explore my way to any part of it, without a guide. 
The scheme which I thought of for this purpose, an- 
swered^ my wishes, and therefore I may presume to submit 
it to others. 

On the second day after my arrival, I purchased a map 
of Paris, hired a fiacre, and drove to the Pantheon. Upon 
the top gallery which surmounts its lofty and magnificent 
dome, I made a survey of the city, which lay below me, 
like the chart with which I compared it. The clouds 
passed quickly over my head, and from the shape of 
the dome, impressed me with an idea of moving in the 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 9§ 

PANTHEON. 

air, upon the top, instead of the bottom of a balloon. 
I easily attained my object, by tracing the churches, the 
temple, the abbey, the palaces, large buildings, and the 
course and islands of the river, after which I seldom had 
occasion to retrace my steps, when I was roving about, 
unaccompanied. On account of no coal being used in 
Paris, the prospect was perfectly clear, and the air is conse- 
quently salubrious. 

The Pantheon, or church of St. Genevieve, is a magni- 
ficent building, from the designs of Mons. Souffiet, one of 
the first architects of France : it was intended to be the 
rival of the St. Paul's of London ; but, though a very noble 
edifice, it must fail of exciting any emotions of jealousy 
amongst the admirers of that national building. It is a mag- 
nificent pile, and when completed, is destined to be the prin- 
cipal place of worship, and is at present the mausoleum of 
the deceased great men of France. Upon the entablature 
over the portico, is written in immense characters, ** aux 

GRANDS HOMMES — LA PATRIE RECONNOISANTE.* * Pa- 

Tallel with the grand entrance, are colossal statues, represent- 
ing the virtues imputed to a republic. Soon after the com- 
pletion of the inner dome, about two years since, one of the 
main supporting pillars was crushed in several places by the 
pressure. The defective column has been removed, and 
until it can be replaced, its proportion of weight is sustain- 
ed by a most ingenious and complicated wooden structure. 
Upon the spot where the altar is to be erected, I saw 
another goddess of liberty, with her usual appendages carved 
in wood, and painted, and raised by the order of Robes- 



100 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



TOMBS OF VOLTAIRE AND ROUSSEAU. 



pierre, for a grand revolutionary fete, which he intended to 
have given, in this church, upon the very day in which he 
perished. The interior dome is covered with two larger 
ones, each of which is supported by separate pillars and 
pilasters, and the whole is constructed of stone only. The 
interior of the lower dome, is covered with the most beautiful 
carvings in stone. The peristyle, or circular colonnade 
round the lower part of the exterior of the dome, is very 
fine, but I must confess, I do not like an ancient fashion 
•which the French have just revived in their construction of 
these pillars, of making the thickest part of the column a 
little below the centre, and kssenirig in size to the base. 
Under this immense fabric are spacious vaults, well lighted ; 
supported by doric pillars, the depositaries of the illustrious 
dead of France. At present there are only two personages 
whose relics are honoured with this gloomy distinction, 
Rousseau and Voltaire ver}'- quietly repose by the side of 
each other. Their remains are contained in tv(^o separate 
tombs, which are constructed of wood, and are embellished 
with various inscriptions. Hamlet's remark over the grave 
of Ophelia, strongly occurred to me, 

" Where be your gibes now ? your gambols ? your 
*^ songs ? your flashes of merriment that were wont to set 
*' the table on a roar ? not one now to mock your own 
^* grinning ?- — quite chapfallen V* 

At either end of the tomb of Jean Jacques, are two 
hands, darting out of the gates of death, supporting lighted 
torches, and below, (it is a little singular) are inscriptions 
illustrating the peaceful, and benevolent virtues of the en» 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. loi 

POLITENESS OF AN EMIGRANT. 

closed defunct ! Peace to their manes ! may they enjoy 

more repose than that troubled world, which their extra- 
ordinary, yet different talents, seemed equally destined to 
cmbelUsh and 40, embroil, though it would be difficult to 
name any twOylnodem writers, who have expressed, with 
more eloquence ,a cordial love of peace, and a zealous desire 
to promote the interests of humanity ! 1 

The church of St. Genevieve Is entirely composed of 
^tone and iron, of the latter very little is used. It has al- 
ready cost the nation very near two millions sterling. As 
I was returning from the Pantheon, I was addressed by one 
of our emigrant companions, to whom I have before allud- 
ed. He had just arrived in Paris, intended staying about a 
month, and then returning to Toulon. He warmly made 
me an offer of his services, and during my stay here, sent 
every morning to know if he should attend me as a friendly 
guide, to conduct me to any place which I might wish to 
see, or to prevent me from suffering any imposition from 
tradesmen. His attentions to me w^ere always agreeable, 
and sometimes serviceable, and strongly impressed upon my 
mind, the policy, as v/ell as the pleasure, of treating every 
being with civility, even where first appearances are not 
favourable, and wherfe an expectation of meeting the party 
again is not probable. In the course of the day I v/as in- 
troduced to Madame B <, who resides, by permission 

of the First Consul, in a suite of elegant apartments in the 
Louvre, which have been granted to her on account of her 
merits and genius, and also in consideration of the losses 
which she has sustained by the revolution. In her study 



10^ THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

THE BEAUTY OF FRANCE. BEAUTY EVANESCENT. 

she presented me to Mademoiselle T— , the then cele- 
brated beauty of Paris ; her portrait by David, had afforded 
much conversation in the fashionable circles ; she was then 
copying, with great taste, from the antique,t4if^hich is gene- 
rally the morning's occupation of the Fren^i'^ ladies of fash- 
ion. She is certainly a very handsome youfi^ woman : but 
I think, if the painter of France was to visit a certain western 
county of England, he would discover as many attractions 
for the display of his admirable pencil, as were at this time 

to be found in the study of Madame B . When we 

left her, Madame B asked me what I thought of 

her; I candidly made the above remark to her, ** Ah !'* 
said she, ** you should have seen her about a month since, 
** she was then the prettiest creature in all France;" how 
so, has she suffered from indisposition ? " Oh no," re- 
plied Madame B •, smilingly, " but a months you 

** know, makes a considerable difference upon the face of 
«« beauty." 

I was much obliged to Madame B- for the re- 
mark, which is greatly within an observation which I have 
frequently made, on the evanescent nature of youthful 
beauty. Madame B 's calculations of the given pro- 
gress of decay, were eighteen times more swift than mine. 
The subject of our conversation, and the busts by which 
we were surrounded, naturally led us to talk of the French 
ladies, and they reminded us, though slightly ^ of their pre- 
sent dress, Madame B~ — — , entered into a particular ac- 
count of the decorations of a lady of fashion in France. I 
have not patience enough to enumerate them here, excep 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 10! 



PLACE DE CAROUSAL. INFERNAL MACHINE. 



that the wife of a fournisseur will not hesitate paying from 
-three to four hundred pounds for a Cachemlre shawl, nor 
:from four to five hundred pounds for a laced gown, nor a 
much larger sum for diamonds cut like pearls, and threaded. 
In this costly manner, does the ingenuity of art, and the 
.prodigality of wealth, do homage to the elegance of nature. 

The entrance to Madame B *s apartments, seemed at 

first, a little singular and unsuitable, but I soon found that 
it was no unusual circumstance, after groping through, 
dirty passages, and up filthy staircases, to enter a noble hall 
and splendid rooms. 

Upon leaving Madame B , I passed the Place de 

Carousel, and saw the ruins of the houses which suffered 
by the explosion of the infernal machine, which afforded so 
much conversation in the world at the time, by which the 
First Consul was Intended to have been destroyed in his 
way to the National Institute of Music. This affair has 
been somewhat involved in mystery. It is now well 
known, that Monsieur Fouche, at the head of the police, 
was acquainted with this conspiracy from its first concep- 
tion, and by his vigilant agents, was informed of the daily 
progress made in the construction of this destructive instru- 
ment, of the plan of which he had even a copy. The 
conspirators proceeded with perfect confidence, and, as they 
thought, with perfect security. Three days before it was 
quite completed, and ready for its fell purpose, from some 
surprise or dread of detection, they changed their place of 
meeting, and in one night, removed the machine from the 
spot where it had been usually deposited. The penetrating 



104 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



INFERNAL MACHINE. — FOUCHE. 



eye of the police lost sight of them. Fouche and his fol- 
lowers exercised their unrivalled talents for pursuit and dis- 
covery to no purpose. The bafned minister then waited up- 
on Bonaparte, to whom he had regularly imparted the result 
of every day's information respecting it, and told him that he 
could no longer trace the traiterous instrument of his assas- 
sination, and requested him, as he knew it must be comple- 
ted by this time, not to go to any public places, until he 
had retrained a knowledge of it. Bonaparte replied, that 
fear only made cowards and conspirators brave, and that 
he had unalterably determined to go with his accustomed 
fequipage to the National Concert that very evening. At 
the usual hour the First Consul set off undismayed from the 
Thuilleries ; a description of the machine, which was made 
to resemble a water cask, being first given to the coachman, 
servants and guards. As they proceeded, the advance 
guard passed it unobserved, but the coachman discovered 
it just as the consular carriage was on a parallel with it ; 
instantly the dexterous and faithful charioteer, lashed hif 
horses into full speed, and turned the corner of the Rue 
Marcera. In one moment after, the terrible machine ex- 
ploded, and covered the street with ruins. The thunder of 
its discharge shook the houses of Paris, and was heard at a 
considerable distance in the country. The First Consul 
arrived in safety at the Hall of Music, and with every ap- 
pearance of perfect tranquillity, entered his box, amidst the 
acclamations of the crowded multitude. The range of 
buildings which was shattered by the explosion, had long 
offended the eye of taste, and presented a gloomy and very 
inconvenient obstruction to the grand entrance of the palace. 



THE STRANt^Eil IN FRANCE. 105 



-WASHERWOMEN. 



Bonaparte, with his usual judgment, which converts every 
event into some goodj immediately after this affair, purcha- 
sed the houses which were damaged, and the whole of this 
Bcene of ruins and rubbish is removing with all possible 
expedition j to the great improvement of this grand approach. 

Whilst I was strolling along the banks of the Seine, I could 
not help remarking that it would suffer much by a com* 
parison with the Thames, so finely described by Sir John 
Denham ; 

Though deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull : 
Strong without rage, without o'erfiowing full. 

The Seine Is narrow, and very dirty ; its waters, which 
Sire finely filtrated when drawn from the fountains of Paris^ 
produce an aperient effect upon strangers, who are gener- 
ally cautioned not to drink much of them at a time. 

The tide does not reach further than a few miles below 
Paris ; to this cause I can alone attribute, though perhaps 
jthe reason is insufKclentj that the river is never rendered gay 
by the passing and repassing of beautiful pleasure boats, to 
the delights of which, the Parisians seem total strangers. 
Its shores are sadly disfigured by a number of blacky 
gloomy, and unwieldy sheds, which are erected upon bar- 
ges, for the accommodation of the washerwomen, who, by 
their mode of washing, which is by rubbing the linen in the 
river water, and beating it with large flat pieces of wood, 
resembling battledores, until the dirt, and generally a portion 
6f the linen, retire together, make a noise very similar to that 

O 



106 ^H£ STHAN^ER IN FRANCE. 

FISHWOMEN. 

of shipwrights caulking a vessel. This is an abominable 
nuisance, and renders the view up the river, from the centre of 
the Pont de la Concorde, the most complete melange of filth 
and finery, meanness and magnificence, I ever beheld. 
Whilst I am speaking of these valuable, but noisy dames, 
I must mention that their services are chiefly confined to 
strangers, and the humbler class of Parisians. The genteel 
families of France, are annoyed by the unpleasant domestic 
occurrence of washing, when in town only Once, and when 
in the country only twice in the course of the year. Their 
magazines of clothes are of course immense, for the recep- 
tion and arrangement of which, several rooms in their houses 
are always allotted. It is the intention of the First Consul 
gradually to unkennel this clattering race of females, when 
it;^n be done with safety. To force them to the tub, and 
to put them into the suds too suddenly, might, from theif 
influence amongst the lower classes of citizens, be followed 
by consequences not very congenial to the repose of the 
government. 

To show of what importance the ladies of the lower 
class in Paris are, I shall relate a little anecdote of Bonaparte, 
in which he is considered to have exhibited as much bravery 
as he ever displayed in the field of battle. 

The poissardes, whose name alone will awaken some 
emotion in the mind of the reader, from its horrible union 
with the barbarous massacres which discoloured the capital 
with blood during the revolution, have been, from time im- 
memorial accustomed, upon any great and fortunate event, 
to send a deputation of their sisterhood to the kings and 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 107 

ANECDOTE OF BONAPARTE. 

ministers of France, and since the revolution to the various 
rulers of the Republic, to offer their congratulations, accom- 
panied by a large bouquet of flowers. Upon the elevation 
of Bonaparte to the supreme authority of France, according 
to custom, they sent a select number from their body to 
present him with their good wishes, and usual fragrant 
donation. The First Consul sternly received them, and 
after rejecting their nosegay, fiercely told them to retire, and 
in future to attend to their husbands, their children, and 
their fisheries, and never more to attempt an interference in 
matters relating to the state. Upon which he ordered the 
pages in waiting, to close the door upon them. He 
thought, no doubt, that *' Omnium manibus res humanse 
*' egent : paucorum capita sufiiciunt." — *' Human affairs 
** require the hands of all, whilst the heads of few are 
«« sufficient.'* 

These formidable dames, so celebrated for their ferocity, 
retired, chagrined and chapfallen, from the presence of the 
imperious Consul, and have not attempted to force either 
their congratulations, or their bouquets, upon any of the 
public functionaries since that period. Such a repulse as 
this, offered to a body of people, more formidable from 
their influence, than the lazzaroni of Naples, would, in all 
human probability, have cost any one of the kings of France 
his crown, I received this anecdote from the brother of 
one of the ministers of France, to whom this country is 
much indebted. Before the high daring of Bonaparte, 
every difiiculty seems to droop and die. 

Near the Pont de la Concord, is a handsome, and orna- 
mental building, which is erected upon barges, and con« 



lOS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



tains near three hundred cold and tepid baths, for naen and 
women. It is surrounded by a wooden terrace, which 
forms an agreeable walk upon the water, and is decorated 
with shrubs, orange trees, and flowers, on each side. 

This place Is very grateful in a climate, which in Sum- 
mer is intensely warm. There are other public baths, but 
this is chiefly resorted to by people of respectability. The 
price is very moderate, tlairty sols. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 109 



CHAPTER XI. 

David, — Place de la Concorde. — UEglise de Madeleine. ^^ 
Print-shops.' — Notre Dame. — MuseurUyOr Palace of Arts. --^ 
Hall of Statues. — Laocoon,'—Belvidere Apollo. — Socrates. 

JLJiJRING my stay In Paris, I visited the gallery of 
David. This celebrated artist has amassed a fortune of 
upwards of two hundred thousand pounds, and is permitted 
by his great patron and friend, Bonaparte, to occupy the 
corner wing of the old palace, from which every other man 
of genius and science, who was entitled to reside there, has 
been removed to other places, in order to make room for 
the reception of the grand National Library, which the 
First Consul intends to have deposited there. His apart- 
ments are very magnificent, and furnished in that taste, 
which he has, by the influence of his fame, and his elegance 
of design, so widely, and successfully diffused. Whilst I 
was seated in his rooms, I could not help fancying myself a 
contemporary of the most tasteful times of Greece. Tunics 
and robes were carelessly but gracefully thrown over the 
antique chairs, which were surrounded by elegant statues, 
and ancient libraries, so disposed, as to perfect the classical 
illusion. I found David in his garden, putting in the back 
ground of a painting. He wore a dirty robe, and an old 
hat. His eyes are dark and penetrating, and beam with the 
lustre of genius. His collection of paintings and statues, 
and many of his own studies, afforded a perfect banquet. 
He was then occupied in drawing a fine portrait of Bona- 
parte, The presence of David covered the gratification 
with gloom. Before me, in the bosom of that art, which 



110 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



is said, with her divine associates, to soften the souls of 
men, I beheld the remorseless judge of his sovereign^ the 
destroyer of his brethren in art, and the enthusiast and con- 
fidential friend of Robespierre. David's political life is too 
well known. During the late scenes of horror, he was 
asked by an acquaintance, how many heads had fallen upon 
the scaffold that day, to which he is said coolly to have 
replied, *' only one hundred and Uoenty I ! The heads of 
*' twenty thousand more must fall, before the great work of 
*' philosophy can be accomplished." 

It is related of him, that during the reign of the Moun- 
tain, he carried his port-folio to the front of the scaffold, to 
catch the last emotions of expiring nature, from the victims 
of his revolutionary rage. 

He directed and presided at the splendid funeral solem- 
nities of Lepelletier, who was assassinated by Paris, in 
which his taste and intimate knowledge of the ceremonies 
of the ancients, on similar occasions, were eminenHy 
displayed. 

Farewell, David ! when years have rolled away, and 
time has mellov/ed the works of thy sublime pencil, mayst 
thou be remembered only as their creator ; may thy fame 
repose herself upon the tableau of the dying Socrates, and 
the miraculous passage of the Alpine hero, may the ensan- 
guined records of thy political frenzy, moulder away, and 
may science, who knew not blood till thou wert known, 
whose pure, and hallowed inspirations have made men hap- 
pier and better, till thou wert born, implore for thee for- 
givenesSj and whilst, with rapture she points to the immor- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. m 



tal images of thy divine genius, may she cover with an 
impenetrable pall, the pale, and shuddering, and bleeding 
victims of thy sanguinary soul ! 

The great abilities of this man, have alone enabled him 
to survive the revolution, which, strange to relate, has, 
throughout its ravages, preserved a veneration for science, 
and, in general, protected her distinguished followers. 
Bonaparte, who possesses great taste, " that instinct superior 
*' to study, surer than reasoning, and more rapid than 
*' reflection,'* entertains the greatest admiration for the 
genius of David, and always consults him in the arrange- 
ment of his paintings and statues. All the costumes of 
government have been designed by this artist. 

David is not without his adherents. He has many- 
pupils, the sons of respectable, and some of them, of noble 
families residing in different parts of Europe. They arc j 
said to be much attached to him, and have formed them- 
selves into a military corps, for the purpose of occasionally 
doing honour to him, and were lately on the point of 
revenging an insult which had been offered to his person, 
in a manner, which, if perpetrated, would have required 
the interest of their master to have saved them from the 
scaffold. 

But neither the gracious protection of consular favour, 
nor the splendor of unrivalled abilities, can restore their 
polluted possessor, to the affections and endearments of 
social intercourse. Humanity has drawn a sable circle 
around him. He leads the life of a proscribed exile, in the 
very centre of the gayest city in Europe. In the gloomy 



11^ THE STRANGEK IN FRANCE. 

PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 

shade of unchosen seclusion, he passes his ungladdened 
hours, in the hope of covering his guilt with his glory, and 
of presenting to posterity, by the energies of his unequalled 
genius, some atonement for the havoc, and ruin of that 
political hurricane, of which he directed the fury, and 
befriended the desolations, against every contemporary 
object that nature had endeared, and virtue consecrated. 

After leaving the gallery of David, I visited la Place de 
la Concorde. This ill fated spot, from its spaciousness, 
and beauty of situation, has always been the theatre of the 
great f^tes of the nation, as well as the scene of its greatest 
calamities. When the nuptials of the late King and Queeil 
w^ere celebrated, the magnificent fireworks, shows, and 
illuminations which followed, were here displayed* Dur- 
ing the exhibition, a numerous banditti, from Normandy, 
broke in upon the vast assemblage of spectators : owing to 
the confusion which followed, and the fall of some of the 
scafFolding, the supporters of which were sawed through 
!by these wretches, the disorder became dreadful and 
and universal ; many were crushed to death, and some 
Jiundreds of the people, whilst endeavouring to make their 
escape, were stabbed and robbed. The king and Queen^ 
as a mark of their deep regret, ordered the dead to be 
entombed in the new burial ground of TEglise de Made* 
leine, then erecting at the entrance of the Boulevard des 
Italiens, in the neighbourhood of the palace, under the 
immediate inspection and patronage of the Sovereign. Thijg 
building was never finished, and still presents to the eye, a 
naked pile of lofty walls and columns. Alas ! the gloomy 
auguries which followed this fatal spectacle, were too truly 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 115 



l'eGLISE DE MADELEINE.' — PRINT SHOPS, 



realized. On that spot perished the monarch and his 
Queen, and the flower of the French nobility, and many 
of the virtuous and enlightened men of France, and in this 
cemei-^ry, their unhonoured remains were thrown, amidst 
heaps of headless victirasj into promiscuous graves of 
unslacked lime 1 

How inscrutable are the ways of destiny \ 
This spot, which, from its enchanting scenery, is 
calculated only to recal, or to inspire the most tender, 
generous, and elegant sentiments, which has been the 
favoured resort of so many kings, and the sc-ene of every 
gorgeous spectacle, was doomed to become the human 
shambles of the brave and good, and the Golgotha of the 
guillotine I In the centre, is an oblong square railing, 
which encloses the exact spot where formerly stood that 
instrument of death, which was voted permanent by its 
remorseless employers. 

A temporary model in wood, of a lofty superb monu- 
ment, two hundred feet high, intended to be erected in 
honour of Bonaparte and the battle of Marengo, was raised 
in this place, for his approval, but from policy or modesty, 
he declined this distinguished mark of public approbation* 

I was a little surprised to observe, in the windows of the 
principal print shops, prints exposed to sale, representing 
the late King, in his full robes of state, under which was 
written, Le Restaurateur de la liberte, (an equivoque, no 
doubt) and the parting interview between that unhappy 
Sovereign and his Queen and family, in the temple, upon 
the morning of his execution. 



114 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

NOTRE DAME. — MUSEUM, OR PALACE OF ARTS. 

■-'.■■■,.■'..,■'• , . .^ , I ' ' , I. , -I . II . 1, 1. t 

This little circumstance will show the confidence which 
the present rulers feel in the strength and security of the 
present government ; for such representations are certainly 
calculated to excite feelings, and to restore impressions, 
which might prove a little hazardous to both, were they 
less powerfully supported. 

I was also one morning a little surprised, by hearing 
from my window, the exhilarating song of " Rule Britan- 
nia," played upon a hand organ ; upon looking down into 
the street, I beheld a Savoyard very composedly turning 
the handle of his musical machine, as he moved along, and 
a French officer humming the tune after him. Both were, 
no doubt. Ignorant of the nationality of the song, though 
not of the truth of its sentiment. 

In the course of one of my morning walks, I went to 
the metropolitan abbey of Notre Dame, which is situated 
at the end of a large island in the Seine, which forms a part 
of Paris, and is filled with long narrow streets. It is a fine 
gothic pile, but in ray humble opinion, much inferior to our 
Westminster abbey, and to the great churches of Rouen. 

From this building, I visited, with a large party, the 
celebrated museum, or palace of the arts, which I after- 
wards generally frequented every other day. 

This inestimable collection contains one thousand and 
thirty paintings, which are considered to be the chefs 
d'cEuvre of the great ancient masters, and is a treasury of 
human art and genius, unknown to the most renowned of 
former ages, and far surpassing every other institution of the 
same nature, in the present times. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 115 

"""-' ■-■■■■ 

MUSEUM, OR PALACE OF ARTS. 

The first apartment is about the size of the exhibition 
room of Somerset house, and lighted as that is, from above. 
It contains several exquisite paintings, which have been 
presented to Bonaparte by the Princes, and rulers of those 
states which have been either subdued by his arms, or have 
cultivated his alliance. The Parisians call this apartment 
Bonaparte's nosegay. The most costly pictures in the 
room, are from the gallery of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, 
Amongst so many works, all exquisite and beautiful, it is 
almost temerity to attempt to select, but if I might be per- 
mitted to name those which pleased me most, I should 
particularize the Ecce Homo, by Cigoli Ludovico Cardi. 

The breast of the mild and benevolent Saviour, striped 
with the bruises of recent punishment, and his heavenly 
countenance, benignly looking forgiveness upon his exe- 
cutioners, are beautifully delineated. L'Annonciation, by 
Gentileschi, in which the divine look of the angel, the grace- 
ful plumage of his wings, and the drapery of the virgin, 
arc incomparable. La Sagesse chassant les Vices, which 
is a very ancient and curious painting, by Andrea Mantegna, 
in which the figure of Idleness, without arms, is wonder- 
fully conceived. Les Noces de Cana, by Paul Veronese, 
which is considered to be the best of his works. It is the 
largest painting I ever beheld. The figures which are seated 
at the banquet, are chiefly the portraits of contemporary 
royal personages of different nations. From this room we 
passed into the gallery of the Louvre. 

I cannot adequately describe the first impressions which 
were awakened, upon my first entering it, and contempla- 



lia THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



MUSEUM, OR PALACE OF ARTS. 



ting such a galaxy of art and genius. This room is one 
thousand tv/o hundred feet long, and is lined with the 
finest paintings of the French. Flemish, and Italian schoolsj 
and is divided by a curious double painting upon slate, pla° 
ced upon a pedestal in the middle of the roomj which re- 
presents the front and back view of the same figures. 

The first division of this hall contains the finest works 

of Le EruDj many of which are upon an immense scale. 

L'Hvver on le Deluge, by Poiissin, is truly sublime, but 

is unfortunately placed in a bad light. There are also 

some beautiful marine paintings, by Verney. Les Religi- 

euses, by Philipe de Champagne, is justly celebrated for 

the principal figure of the dying nun. Vue de Chevet 

d'une eolise, by Emanuel de Witte, is an exquisite little 

cabinet picture, in which the effect of a ray of light shining 

• throuf^h a painted window, upon a column, is inimitable,, 

and the perspective is very line. There are here also some 

of the finest works of Wouvermans, and a charming picture 

"by Teniers, La Vierge, I'enfant Jesus, la Madeleine, et 

St. Jerome, by Antoine Allegri Correge, is considered to be 

a picture of great beauty and value. There are also some 

o-lorious paintings by Pteubens. I have thus briefly selected 

these pictures from the rest, hoping, at the same time, that 

it will not be inferred that those which I have not namedj 

of which it would be impossible to offer a description 

without filling a bulky volume, are inferior to the works 

which I have presumed to mention. The .recording pen 

must rival that matchless pencil, which has thus adorned 

the walls of the Museum, before it can do justice to such ^ 

magnificent collection. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 1.17 



MUSEUM, OR PALACE OF ARTS. 



This exhibition is public three days in the week, and at 
other times is open to^students and to strangers, upon their 
producing their passports. On public days, all descrip- 
tions of persons are here to be seen. The contemplation of 
such a mixture is not altoo;ether uninterestins^. 

The sun-browned rugged plebeian, whose mind, by 
the influence of an unexampled political change, has been 
Ions: alienated from all the noble feelinf^s which religion 
and humanity inspire j, is here seen, with his arras rudely- 
folded over his breast, softening into pity, before the strug- 
gling and sinking sufferers of a deluged world, or silently 
imbibing from the divine resigned countenance of the cru- 
cilied Saviour, a hope of unperishable bliss beyond the 
grave Who will condemn a policy by which ignorance 
becomes enlightened, profligacy penitent, and which, as by 
stealth, imparts to the relenting bosom of ferocity, the sub- 
dued and social dispositions of true fraternity ? 

To amuse, may be necessary to the present government 
of France, but surely to supplant the wild abandoned prin- 
ciples of a barbarous revolution, with nexv impressions, 
created by an unreserved display of the finest and most 
persuasive images of resigned suffering, heroic virtue, or 
elegant beauty, cannot be deemed unworthy of the ruler oi 
a great people^ 

At this place, as well as at all the other national exhibi- 
tions, no money for admission is required or expected. No 
person is admitted with a stick, and guards attend to pre- 
serve the pictures from injury, and the exhibition fron:i 



lis THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

HALL OF STATUES, LAOCOON. 

' ■ ' ' • ■ " ■ ' .a 

riot. The gallery of the Louvre is at present, unfortunately, 
badly lighted throughout, owing to the light issuing chiefly 
on one side, from long windows. This inconvenience, 
however, is soon to be remedied ; by observing the same 
manner of lighting, as in the adjoining apartment- 

From the museum, we descended into la Salle des An- 
tiques, which contains all the treasury of Grecian and Roman 
statuary. The first object to which we hastened, was the 
statue of Laocoon, for so many ages, and by so many wri- 
ters admired and celebrated. This superb specimen of 
Grecian sculpture, is supposed to be the united production 
of Polydorus, Athenodorus, and Agesander, but its great 
antiquity renders its history somewhat dubious. In the 
beginning of the sixteenth century it was discovered at 
Rome amongst the ruins of the palace of Titus, and depos- 
ited in the Farnese palace, whence it has been removed to 
Paris, by the orders of Bonaparte, after the conquest of 
Italy. It represents Laocoon, the priest of Appollo and 
Neptune, and his two sons, writhing in the folds of two 
hideous serpents. The reader v/ill remember the beautiful 
lines of Virgil upon the subject : 

** ct primum parva duorum 

*' Corpora natorum serpens amplesus uterque 
*' Implicat, et miseros morsu depascitur artus. 
** Post, ipsum auxilio subeuntem ac tela ferentem 
*' Corripiunt, spirisque ligant ingentibus : et jam 
" Bis inediuni araplexi, bis colic squamea circum 
*' Terga dati, superant capite et cervicibus altis. 
*' lUe simul manibus tendit divellere nodos — ''* 

Or, in the English habit which Dryden has given them. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. H^ 



LAOCOON. — BELVIDERE APOLLO 

■ « ■ ■■ ■. . ■ . ■ ■ , .. ' ,- ■ , ,1 .', 

*' And first around the tender boys they wind, 

**Thsn with their sharpen'd fangs, their limbs and bodies grind. 

** The wretched father, running to their aid, 

**With pious haste, but vain, they next invade; 

" Twice round his waist the winding volumes roUM, 

"And twice about his gasping throat they fold. 

•'The priest, thus doubly chokM, their crests divide, 

** And tow'ring o'er his head in triumph ride. 

** With both his hands he labours at the knots-^" 

Pliny mentions this statue as the admiration of the age 
in which he flourished. 

I fear that I shall be guilty of a sort of profanation when 
I remark that the figures of the two sons of Laocoon, appear 
to exhibit rather more marks of maturity and strength of 
muscle, than are natural to their size, and to the supposed 
tenderness of their age. It is, however, a glorious work of art. 

We next beheld the Belvidere Apollo. This statue, in 
my humble opinion, surpasses every other in the collection. 
All the divinity of a god, beams through this unrivalled 
perfection of form. It is impossible to impart the impres- 
sions which it inspires. The rivetted beholder is ready to 
exclaim with Adam, when he first discerns the approach 
of Raphael ; 

*' behold what glorious shape 

"Comes this way moving: seems another morn, 

" Risen on mid-noon ; some great behest from Heav'n." 

The imagination cannot form such an union of grace 
and strength. During my stay in Paris, I frequently visit- 
ed this distinguished statue, and discovered fresh subjects 
of amazement and admiration, as often as I gazed upon it. 



lOQ THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



SOCRATES. 



One of its remarkable beauties, is its exquisite expression of 
motion. Its aerial appearance perpetually excites the idea 
of its being unstationary and unsupported^ As it would be 
a rash and vain attempt to give a complete description of 
this matchless imagej I must reluctantly leave it, to inform 
my reader, that on the other side of the hall, are the original 
Diana (which is wonderfully fine) and several very beautiful 
Venuses, The Venus de Medicis is not here^ There are 
also some fine whole length statues of Roman magistrates^ 
in their curule chairsc 

In the Temple of the MuseSj are exquisite busts of 
Homer and Socrates^ Pliny informs us that the ancient 
world possessed no original bust of the former. That of 
the latter seems to have been chisseled to represent the cele- 
brated Athenian before he had obtained his philosophical 
triumph over those vices, which a distinguished physiogno- 
mist of his tiracj once imputed to him from the character of 
his features* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE* 191 



CHAPTER XIL 

Bonaparte, -^Artillery. — Mr. Fiit, — News-papers, — Arck-^ 
bishop of Paris. — Consular Colours, — Religion. — Consular 
Conversion. — Madame Bonaparte. — Consular Modesty.—^ 
Separate Beds. — A Country Scene* — Connubial Affection^ 
^-"Female Bravery, 

XjL little anecdote is related of Bonaparte, which un- 
folded the bold and daring character of this extraordinary- 
man in early life : When he was about fifteen years of 
age, and a cadet in the military school at Paris^ — (by the by, 
the small distance between this seminary and his present 
palace, and the swiftness of his elevation, afford a curious 
coincidence) — ^in the vast plain of the Champ de Mars, th^ 
court, and the Parisians, were assembled to witness the ascent 
of a balloon. Bonaparte made his way through the crowd, 
and unperceived, entered the inner fence, which Contained 
the apparatus for inflating the silken globe* It was then 
very nearly filled, and restrained from its flight by the last 
cord only. The young cadet requested the aeronaut to per- 
mit him to mount the car with him ; which request was 
immediately refused, from an apprehension that the feelings 
of the boy might embarrass the experiment. Bonaparte is 
reported to have exclaimed, ** I am young, it is true, but I 
•* neither fear the powers of earth nor of air,'* and sternly- 
added, ** will you let me ascend ?" The aeronaut, a little; 
offended at his obtrusion, sharply replied, "No, Sir ; I 
will not ; I beg that you will retire." Upon which j the 
little enraged officer, drew a small sabre, which he wore 
with his uniform, instantly cut the balloon in several places^ 



122 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

■ - . ■ ....:...■■■.' 

BONAPARTE. 



and destroyed the curious apparatus, which the aeronaut 
had constructed, with infinite labour and ingenuity, for the 
purpose of trying the possibiUty of aerial navigation. 

Paris was almost unpeopled this day, to view the spec- 
tacle. The disappointment of the populate, which was 
said to have exceeded seven hundred thousand persons, be- 
came violent and universal. The king sent to know the 
reasbn of the tumult, when the story was related to him, 
the good humoured monarch laughed heartily, and said, 
*' Upon my word, that impetuous boy will make a brave 
officer." — The devoted king little thought that he was 

speaking of his successor. The young offender was put 

under arrest, and confined for four days. 

This man is certainly the phenomenon of the present 
times. It is a circumstance worthy of remark, that the 
artillery has furnished France with most of its present dis- 
tinguished heroes, who have also been bred up in the same 
military school with Bonaparte. A short time before my 
arrival at Paris, this great genius, who displays a perfect 
knowledge of mankind, and particularly of the people over 
whom he rules, discovered that the Parisians, from a famil- 
iarity with his person, and from his lady and his family 
having occasionally joined in their parties of amusement, 
began to loose that degree of awe and respect for him, 
which he so well knows how to appreciate, as well as to 
inspire. In consequence of this, he gradually retired from 
every circle of fashion, and was at this period, almost as in- 
accessible as a Chinese Emperor. The same line of conduct 
was also adopted by the principal officers of government. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 123 



BONAPARTE. 



He resided almost wholly at Mai Malson, except on state 
days, when only those strangers were permitted to be in- 
troduced to him, who had satisfied the ambassadors of their 
resp ective nations, that they had been previously presented 
at their own courts. 

If Bonaparte is spared from the stroke of the assassin, 
or the praetorian caprice of the army, for any length of 
time, he will have it in his power to augment the services 
which he has already afforded to the repubUc, by rebuf ding 
the political edifice of France, with many meliorations, for 
which some materials may be collected from her own ruins, 
and some from the tried and approved constitutions of other 
countries. If his ambition will permit him to discharge 
this great undertaking faithfully, in a manner uniform 
with that glory which he has acquired in the field, and in-. 
fluenced only by the noble desire of giving rational liberty 
and practicable happiness to the people over whoni he 
sways, they will, in return, without jealousy or regret, 
behold the being to whose wisdom and moderation they 
will be thus indebted, led to the highest seat amongst them 
—they will confer those sanctions upon his well merited 
distinction, without which all authority is but disastrous 
usurpation — a comet's blaze, flaming in -a. night of dismay V 
and setting in gloom^ '^ 

The dignity of such a legislator, will be self-maintained 
and lasting. Upon him, the grateful French will confer 
those unforced, unpurchased suffrages, which will prevent 
that fate, which, in their absence, the subtlety of policy, 
the fascinations of address, the charni of corruption, and 



124 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



even the terror of the bayonet, can only postpone. -^Yts, 
Bonaparte ! millions of suffering beings, raising themselves 
from the dust, in which a barbarous revolution has pros- 
trated them, look up to thee for liberty, protection and rc^ 
pose. They wiil not look to thee in vain. The retiring 
storm, still flashing its lessening flame, and rolling its distant 
thunders, will teach thee, 'U^ere it neces&ary^ not to force 
them to remeasure their vengeance by their Avrongs. 

In Paris, the achievements of the First Consul are not 
much talked of, so true is the old adage, that no man is 
a hero to his own domestic. The beauties of a collossal 
statue, must be contemplated at a distance. 

The French at present, work, w^alk, eat, drink, and 
sleep in tranquillity, and what is of more consequence to 
them, they dance in security, to which may be added, that 
their taxes are neither very heavy, nor oppressive. 

In every party which I entered, I found the late minis- 
ter of Great Britain was the prevailing subject of curiosity. 
I was overpowered with questions respecting this great 
man, which, in their minute detail, extended to ascertain 
what was the colour of his eyes, the shape of his nose, and 
whether in a morning he wore hussar boots, or shoes. 
This little circumstance could not fail of proving pleasant 
to an Englishman. They informed me, that, throughout 
the war, they regularly read in their own diurnal prints, 
our parliamentary debates, and the general outline of most 
of our political schemes, which were furnished by people in 
the pay of the French government, who resided in England, 
notwithstanding the severity of the legislative, and the vigi^ 
|?ince of the executive authorities, 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 195 



NEWSPAPERS. LIBERTY OF THE PRESS. 



Whilst I am mentioning the subject of newspaper 
intercourse, I cannot help lamenting, that since the renewal 
of national friendship, the public prints of both countries, 
are not more under the influence of cordiahty and good 
humour. 

The Liberty of the Press, is the palladium of reason, the 
distributor of Hght and learning, the public and undismayed 
assertor of interdicted truth. \ It is the body and the honour 
guar^oi civil and political liberty. | Where the laws halt 
with dread, the freedom of the press advances, and with the 
subtle activity of conscience, penetrates the fortified recesses, 
and writes its fearful sentence on the palace xcall of recoiling 
tyrants. As an Englishman, my expiring sigh should be 
breathed for its preservation ; but as an -admirer of social 
repose and national liberty, I regret to see its noble energies 
engaged in the degrading service of fretful spleen, and 
ungenerous animadversion. When the horizon is no lon- 
ger blackened with the smoke of the battle, it is unworthy 
of two mighty empires to carry on an ignoble war of 
words. If peace is their wish, let them manifest the great 
and enlightened sentiment in all its purity, and disdain to 
irritate each other by acts of petulant and provoking re- 
crimination. 



A short time preceding my arrival in France, Bonaparte 
had rendered himself very popular amongst the constitu- 
tional clergy, by a well timed compliment to the metropo- 
litan Archbishop. The First Consul gave a grand dinner 
to this dignified prelate, and to several of his brethren. 
After the entertainment, Bonaparte addressed the Arch- 



l£Q THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

ARCHBISHOP OF PARIS. CONSULAR COLOURS. 

bishop by observing, that as he had given directions for the 
repairing of the arch -episcopal palace, he should very much 
like to take a ride in the Archbishop*s carriage, to see the 
progress which the workmen had made. The prelate 
bowed to the First Consul, and informed him that he had 
no carriage, otherwise he should be much flattered by con- 
ducting him thither. Bonaparte good humouredly said, 
*' how can that be ? your coach has been waiting at the 
*' gate this half hour," and immediately led the venerable 
Archbishop down the steps of the Thuilleries, whtre he 
found a plain handsome carriage, with a valuable pair of 
horses, and a coachman and footmen, dressed in the livery 
•which Bonaparte had just before informed him would be 
allotted to him when his establishment was completed. 
The whole was a present from the private purse of the First 
Consul. Upon their arrival at the palace, the Archbishop 
was agreeably surprised, by finding that the most minute 
and liberal attention had been paid to his comfort and 
accommodation. 

The clergy seem to be in favour with Bonaparte. 
When he assisted, in the last Spring, at the inauguration of 
the Archbishop of Paris, in the metropolitan church of 
Notre Dame, and gave to the restoration of religion *' all 
the circumstance of pomp** and military parade, he was 
desirous of having the colours of his regiment consecrated 
by the holy prelate, and submitted his wishes to his soldiers. 
A few days afterwards, a deputation waited upon their 
General in Chief, with this reply, *' Our banners have 
** already been consecrated by the blood of our enemies at 
** Marengo ; the benediction of a priest cannot render them 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 127 

CONSULAR CONVERSION. 

** more sacred in our eyes, nor more animating in the time 
" of battle." Bonaparte prudently submitted himself to 
their praetorian resolution, and the consular colours remain 
to this hour in the same unchristianlike condition, as when 
they first waved at the head of their victorious legions. 

This anecdote, will in some degree prove a fact, which, 
notwithstanding the counter reports of English newspapers, 
I found every where confirmed, that although religion is new 
to the French, yet that the novelty has at present but little 
charm for them, I had frequent opportunity of making 
this remark, as well in the capital as in the departments of 
the republic through which I passed. In Paris, the Sab- 
bath can only be considered as a day of dissipation to the 
lovers of gaiety, and a day of unusual profit to the man of 
trade. Here, it is true, upon particular festival days, con- 
siderable bodies of people are to be seen in the act of wor- 
ship, but curiosity and the love of show, assemble them to- 
gether ; if it was otherwise, their attendance would be more 
numerous and regular. The First Consul does not seem to 
possess much fashionable influence over the French in mat- 
ters of religion, otherwise, as he has the credit of attending 
mass, with very pious punctuality, in his private chapel at 
Mai Maison, it might be rather expected, that devotion 
would become a little more familiar to the people. 

Upon another subject, the will of the chief magistrate 
has been equally unfortunate. To the few ladies who are 
admitted into his social circles, he has declared himself an 
enemy to that dress, or undress (I am puzzled to know what 
to call it) which his friend David has so successfully recom- 



1<IS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

CONSULAR MODESTY. MADAME BONAPARTE. 

mended, for the purpose of displaying, with the least possi- 
ble restraint, the fine proportions of the female form. 
Madame Bonaparte, who Is considered to be in as good a 
state of subordination to her young husband, as the consular 
regiment Is to their young general, contrives to exhibit her 
elegant person to great advantage ; by adopting a judicious 
and graceful medium of dress, by which she tastefully avoids 
a load of decoration, which repels the eye by too dense a 
coverino-, and that questionable airiness of ornament, which, 
by Its gracious and unrestrained display, deprives the Imagi- 
nation of more than half Its pleasures, Bonaparte Is said 
not to be Indifferent to those affections which do honour to 
the breast which cherishes them, nor to the morals of the 
people whom he governs. 

It is well known, that In France, in the house of a new 
fashionable couple, separate chambers are always reserved 
for the faithful pair, which after the solemnities of marriage 
very seldom remain long unoccupied. The First Consul 
considers such separations as unfriendly to morals. A few 
months since, by a well timed display of assumed Igno- 
rance, he endeavoured to give fashion to a sentiment, which 
may In time reduce the number of these family accommoda" 
tions. The noble palace of St. Cloud was at this time pre- 
paring for him ; the principal architect requested of him to 
point out In what part of the palace he would wish to have 
his separate sleeping-room. ** I do not know what you 
mean," said the j^oung Imperial philosopher, " crimes only 
*' divide the husband from his wife. Make as many bed- 
" rooms as you please, but only one for me and Madame 
"Bonaparte.'* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 129 

i.v^ "" ' ' ' ' . ' . ' 

A COUNTRY EXCURSION — -MADAME O . 

I must now quit the dazz,ling splendor of imperial vir- 
tues for the more tranquil, but not less fascinating appear- 
ance of retired and modest merit. 

It was in the afternoon of one of the finest days in June, 
when Madame O — — , with her nephew, a very amiable 
young man, called in their carriage, and took me to the 
chateau of her husband, to whom I had letters of introduc- 
tion. After passing through a charming country for nine 
miles, adorned on each side with gardens and country hou- 
ses, we arrived at the pleasant village of la Reine. As soon 
as we entered it, the sight of the carriage, and of their bene- 
factress, seemed to enliven the faces of the villagers, who 
iivcre seated in picturesque groupes at the doors of their 
cottao-es. Such animated looks were not lighted up by 

curiosity, for they had seen Madame O a thousand and 

a thousand timesj, but because they had seldom seen her 
without experiencing some endearing proof of her bountiful 
heart. We left the village to the right, and proceeded 
throuo-h a private road, lined with stately walnut trees, of 
nearly a mile in length, which led to Monsieur 0~'s. 
It was evening, the sky was cloudless, the sun tvas setting 
in great glory, and covered the face of this romantic Country 
with the richest glow. Near the gate of a shrubbery, I be- 
held a very handsome boy, v/hose appearance at once be- 
spoke him to be the son of a gentleman. The animated 

smile of Madame O , immediately convinced me that 

it was her son ; " See,'* said the delighted mother, *' it is 
*«my little gardener ;" the little graceful rustic had a small 
Spade in his hand, which he threw down, and ran to tss; 

E 



150 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

INTERESTING COUNTRY SCENE — MONSIEUR O . 

We alighted at the entrance of the garden, into which we 
entered, under a beautiful covered treillage, lined with jessa- 
mine and honeysuckles. At the end were two elegant 
young women, waiting with delight to receive their mother, 
from v/hom they had been separated only a few hours. 
With this charming family I entered the house, which was 
handsome but plain. The hospitable owner rose from his 
sofa, and, after embracing his elegant lady with great affec- 
tion, he received me with all the expressions and warmth 
of a long friendship. Soon afterwards his servant (a faith- 
ful Indian) entered, and spread upon the table, Maderia, 
Burojundy, and dried fruits. It was intensely hot : the great 
window at the end of the room in which we were sitting, 
opened into the gardens, which appeared to be very beau- 
tiful, and abounded with nightingales, which were then 
most sweetly singing. ** They are my little musicians,*' 
said Monsieur O — — , *' we have made a pleasant bargairt 
*' together, I give them crumbs of bread, and my bowers to 
*' range in, and they give me this charming music every 
*' evening.'* 

Monsieur O — ^^^ was an invalid ; the revolution, poig- 
nant vexations, heavy losses, and a painful separation from 
his native country, for the preservation of his lifcj and that 
of his family, had undermined his health. Grief had made 
sad inroads upon a delicate constitution. It was his good 
fortune to be the husband of one of the finest and most 
amiable women in France, and the father of an affectionate, 
beautiful, and accomplished family. His circumstances 
had been once splendid ; they were then respectable, but he 
Ibad passed through events which threatened his all. Those 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 131 

CONNUBIAL AFFECTION. 

sufterino-s which e:enerous souls sustain for the sake of 
others, not for themselves, had alone destroyed the resem- 
blance which once existed between this excellent man and 
his admirable portrait, which, at the further end of the 
room, presented the healthy glow and fine proportion of 
manly beauty. He expressed to me, in the most charming 
manner, his regret, that indisposition confined him to the 
country, and prevented him from receiving me in Paris 
suitable to his own wishes, and to those claims which I had 
upon his attentions by the letters of introduction which I 
had brought to him ; but added, that he should furnish me 
with letters to some of his friends in town, who would be 
happy to supply his absence, and to make Paris agreeable 
to me. Monsieur O was as good as his word. 

This amiable gentleman possessed a countenance of 
great genius, and and a mind full of intelhgence. 

After an elegant supper, when his lady and daughters 
had withdrawn, he entered into a very interesting account 
of his country, of the revolution, and of his flight for the 
salvation of himself and family. A tolerably good opinion 
may be formed of the devastations which have been produ- 
ced by the late republican government, by the following 

circumstance, which Monsieur O- assured me, on the 

word of a man of honour, was correct. 

His section in Paris was composed of one thousand 
three hundred persons, of rank and fortune, of whom only 
five had escaped the slaughter of the guillotine ! ! 

Madame O- , and her charming family, seemed 

wholly to occupy his heart and affections. 



132 THE STRANGER IN FRANCB, 



CONNUBIAL AFFtCTION. 



He spoke of his lady with all the tender eulogium of & 
young lover. Their ynion was entirely from attachment, 
and had been resisted on the part of Madame 0-— — , when 
he first addressed her, only because her fortune was hum- 
ble, compared with his. He informed me, and I must not 
suppress the story, that in the time of blood and tenor, this 
amiable woman, who is remarkable for the delicacy of her 
mind, and for the beauty and majesty of her person, dis- 
played a degree of coolness and courage, which, in the 
field of battle, would have covered the hero with laurels. 
, One evening, a short period before the family left France, a 
party of those murderers who were sent for by Robespierre 
from the frontiers which divide France from Italy, and 
who were by that arch-iiend employed in all the butcheries 
and massacres of Paris, entered the peaceful village of la 
Reine, in search of Monsieur Q , His lady saw them 
advancing, and anticipating their errend, had just time to 
give her husband intelligence of their approach, who left 
his chateau by a back door, and secreted himself in the 
house of a neighbour. Madame O , with perfect com- 
posure, went out to meet them, and received them in the 
most gracious manner. They sternly demanded Mons, 
O — — ; she informed them that he had lefi: the country, and, 
after engaging them in conversation, she conducted them 
into her drawing room, and regaled them with her best 
wines, and made her servants attend upon them with un- 
usual deference and ceremony. Their appearance v/as alto- 
gether horrible, they wore leather aprons, Vv^hich were sprin- 
kled all over with blood, they had large horse pistols in their 
belts, and a dirk and sabre by their sides. TUeir looks were 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 133 

FEMALE BRAVERY. 

full of ferocity, and they spoke a harsh patois language. 
Over their cups, they talked about the bloody business of that 
day's occupation, in the course of which they drew out 
their dirks, and wiped from their bandies, clots of blood 

and hair. Madame O sat with them, undismayed by 

their frightful deportment. After drinking several bottles 
of Champaign and Burgundy, these savages began to grow 
good humoured, and seemed to be completely fascinated by 
the amiable and unembarrassed, and hospitable behaviour 
of their fair landlady. After carousing till midnight, they 
pressed her to retire, observing that they had been received 
so hand:iomely, that they were convinced Monsieur Q 
had been misrepresented, and was no enemy to the good 
cause ; they added, that they found the wines excellent, 
and after drinking two or three bottles more, they would 
leave the house, without causing her any reason to regret 
their admission. 

Madame O , with all the appearance of perfect 

tranquillity and confidence in their promises, wished her 
unwelcome visitors a good night, and after visiting her chil- 
dren in their rooms, she threw herself upon her bed, with a 
loaded pistol in each hand, and, overwhelmed with sup- 
pressed agony and agitation, she soundly slf^t till she was 
called by her servants, two hours after these wretches had 
left the house. 

He related, also, another instance of that resolution 
which is not unfrequently exhibited by women, when 
those generous affections, for which they are so justly cele- 
brated, are menaced with danger. About the same period, 
two of the children of Monsieur O^ , were ifr Paris, at 



134 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

tEMALE BRAVERY. 

school : A rumour had reached him, that the teachers of 
the seminary in which they were placed, had offended the 
government, and were Hkely to be butchered, and that the 
carnage which was expected to take place, might, in its 
undistinguishing fury, extend to the pupils. Immediately 

upon receiving this intelligence. Monsieur O ordered 

liis carriage, for the purpose of proceeding to town. 
Madame Q implored of him to permit her to accom- 

pany him ; in vain did he beseech her to remain at home ; 
the picture of danger which he painted, only rendered her 
more determined. She mounted the carriage, and seated 
herself by the side of her husband. When they reached 
Paris, they were stopped in the middle of the street St. 
Honore, by the massacre of a large number of prisoners 
who had just been taken out of a church which had been 
converted into a prison. Their ears were pierced w4th 
screams. Many of the miserable victims were cut down, 
clinging to the windows of their carriage. During the 
dreadful delays which they suffered in passing through this 

street, Madame O — discovered no sensations of alarm, 

but stedfastly fixed her eyes upon the back of the coach box, 
to avoid, as much as possible, observing the butcheries 
"Vvhich were perpetrating on each side of her. 

Had she been observed to close her eyes, or to set back 
in the carriage, she would have excited a suspicion, which 
no doubt would have proved fatal to her. At length she 
reached the school which contained her children, where she 
found the rumour which they had received was without 
foundation ; she calmly conducted them to the carriage, 
and during their gloomy return through Paris, betrayed no 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 135 



FEMALE BRAVERY. 



emotions ; but as soon as they had passed the barrier, and 
were once more in safety upon the road to their peaceful 
chateau, the exulting mother, in an agony of joy, pressed 
her children to her bosom, and in a state of mind wrought 
up to frenzy, arrived at her own house, in convulsions of 

ghastly laughter. Monsieur O never spoke of this 

charming woman, without exhibiting the strongest emo- 
tions of regard. He said, that in sickness she suffered no 
one to attend upon him but herself, that in all his afflictions 
she had supported him, and that she mitigated the deep 
melancholy which the sufferings of his country, and his 
own privations, had fixed upon him, by the well-timed 
sallies of her elegant fancy, or by the charms of her various 
accomplishments. 

I found myself a gainer in the article of delight, by 
leaving the gayest metropolis that Europe can present to a 
traveller, for the sake of visiting such a family. 



136 THE STRANGEft If} FRANCE. 



CHAPTER XIII, 

Breakfast, "^Warmth of French Expression,'-^ Rustic JE/o^ 
^uertce. — Curious Cause assigned for the late extraordinary 
Frosts'—Madame R -—Paul I.-^Tivoti, — Frescaii, 



I 



N the morningj we breakfasted in the drawing-room in 
which the murderous myrmidons of Robespierre had been 
fegaled. It was beautifully situated. Its windows looked 
into a grove which Monsieur O- had formed of valua- 
ble American shrubs. His youngest daughter, a beautiful 
little girl of about five years of age, rather hastily entered 
the room with a pair of tame wood pigeons in her hands, 
which in her eagerness to bring to her father, she had toa 
forcibly pressed, who very gently told her, it was Cruel to 
hurt her little favourites, more particularly as they were a 
species of bird which was remarkable for its unoffending 
innocence. The little creature burst into tears ; " My little 
** Harriet, why do you weep?" said her father, kissing her 
white forehead, and pressing her to him. " Why do you 
*' rebuke me ?'* said the little sufferer, " when you know 
*' I love you so much that I could kiss your naked heart.*" 

I mention this circumstance, to show how early in life, 
the French children imbibe the most charming expressions, 
by which their more mature conversation is rendered so 
peculiarly captivating. During our repast, a circumstance 
occurred, which produced an unusual vivacity amongst all 
the party, and afforded a specimen of the talent and plea- 
santry of the French country people. The gardener entered^ 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. I3f 

RUSTIC ELOQUENCi;. 

with the paper, and letters of the da3^ Amongst thenij 
was a letter which had been opened, appeared very much 
disordered, and ought to have been received upon the pre- 
ceding day. Monsieur C seemed much displeased, 

and called upon his man to explain the matter. The 
gardener, who possessed a countenance which beamed with 
animation and good humour, made a low bow, and with- 
out appearing to t)e, in the least degree, disconcerted^ 
proceeded to unfold the affair, with the most playful inge- 
nuity. He stated that the dairy maid was very pretty, that 
she made every body in love v/lth her^ and was very much 
in love herself; that she was accustomed to receive a great 
number of billet-doux, which, on account of her education 
having been very far below her incomparable merits, she 
was not able to understand, without the assistance of Nico- 
lene, the groom, who was her confidant^ and amanuensis ; 
that on the day before, he gave her the letter in question, with 
directions to carry it to his master'i that, under the influence 
of that thoughtful absence, which is said to attend the 
advanced stages of the tender passion, she soon afterwards 
Conceived that it was no other than a customary homage 
from one of her many admirers, upon which she committed 
the supposed depositary of tender sighs and brittle vows, to 
the warm custody of her glowing bosom, than which, the 
gardener, (who at this moment saw his master's eyes were 
engaged by the *?////f J appearance of the letter) declared that 
nothing was fairer ; he again proceeded, by observing, that 
in the course of the preceding evening, as she was stooping 
to adjust her stool in the meadow, the cow kicked, and thfe 



ISS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

RUSTIC ELOQUENCE THE SOOTHSAYER. 

epistle tumbled into the milk pail ; that she afterwards 
dried it by the kitchen fire, and gave it, for the reasons 
before assigned, to her confidential friend to explain to her, 
who soon discovered it to be a letter of business, addressed 
to his master, instead of an impassioned love ditty for the" 
tender Marie ; that, finally, all the principals concerned in 
this unhappy affair, were overwhelmed with distress, on 
account of the sad disaster, and that the kitchen had lost all 
its vivacity ever since. No advocate could have pleaded 
more eloquently. All the family, from its chief, to little 
Harriet, whose tears were not yet dried, were in a con- 
tinued fit of laughing. The gardener, whose face largely 
partook of the gaiety which he had so successfully excited, 
was commissioned, by his amiable master, to tell the dis- 
tressed dairy maid, that love always carried his pardon in 
his haiid for all his offences, and that he cheerfully forgave 
her, but directed the gardener, to prevent a recurrance of 
similar accidents, not again to trust her with his letters, until 
the tender disease was radically removed. The rustic oratoi* 
gracefully bowed ; and left us to finish our breakfast with 
increased good humour, and to carry forgiveness and con- 
solation to poor Marie, and all her condoling friends in the 
kitchen. 

Before we had completed our repast, a little deformed 
elderly Kdy made her appearance, whose religion had been 
shaken by the revolution, into a crazy and gloomy super- 
stition. She had scarcely seated herself, before she began 
a very rapid and voluble comment upon the change of the 
times, and the devastations which the lute extraordinary 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 1S(> 

1 '.. ■ - ' ■ . ■■■■JL 

CAUSE OF THE LATE EXTRAORDINARY FROST. 

frost had committed upon the vineyards of France, which 
she positively asserted, with the confidence which only the 
arrival of her tutelar saint with' the intelligence, ought to 
have inspired, was sent as an appropriate judgment upon 
the republic, to punish it, for suffering the ladies of Paris 
to go so thinly clothed. 

Monsieur O heard her very patiently throughout, 

and then observed, that the ways of Heaven were inscruta- 
ble ; that human ingenuity was bafHed in attempting to 
draw inferences from its visitations, and that it did not ap- 
pear to him at least, that an offence which was assuredly 
calculated to inspire sensations of warmth and tenderness, 
was appropriately punished by a chastisement of an opposite 
tendency ; to which he added, that some moralists, who in- 
du]ged,^in an endeavour to connect causes and effects, might 
think it rather incompatible with their notions of eternal 
equity, to endeavour to clothe the ladies, by stripping the 
land to nakedness — here the old lady could not help smiling. 
Her amicable adversary pursued the advantage which his 
pleasantry had produced, by informing her, that prognosti- 
cations had been for a long time discountenanced, and that 
formeil}'', when the ancient Augurs, after the ceremonies of 
their successful illusions were over, met each other by ac- 
cident in the street, impressed by the ridiculous remem- 
brance of their impositions, they could not help laughing in 

each other's faces. Madame V laughed too ; upon 

which Monsieur O , very good humouredly told her, 

that as a soothsayer, she certainly would not have smiled^ 
unless she intended to retire for ever from the office. 



140 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



THE PARTIKG 



^ Previous to my taking leave of Monsieur O- — - and 
his charming family, we walked in the gardens, where our 
conversation turned upon the extraordinary genius, who 
in the character of First Consul of the French, unites a 
force and extent of sway, unknown to the Kings of France, 
from their first appearance, to the final extinction of mo- 
narchy. 

He told me that he had the honour of knowing him 
with intimacy from his youth, and extolled, with high 
culosy, his splendid abilities, and the great services which 
he had rendered France. He also related several amiable 
anccclf^tes of the minister Talleyrand, who, when in Amer- 
ica, had lived with him a considerable time under the same 

roof. 

At lensith the cabriolet, which was to bear me from this 
Jittle Paradise, approached the gate, and the m.oment arriv- 
ed when I was to part with one of the most charming 
families to be found in the bosom of the republic. 

As Monsieur O pressed me by one hand, and pla- 
ced that of his litde Harriet in my other, a tear of exquisite 
tenderness rolled down his cheek, it seemed to express that 
we should never meet again on this side the grave. Excel- 
lent being ! if it must be so, if wasting and unsparing sick- 
ness is destined to tear thee ere long from those who delight 
thine eye, and soothe thine heart in the midst of its sorrovi^s, 
may the angel of peace smile upon thee in thy last moments, 
and bear thy mild, and generous, and patient spirit, to the 
realms of eternal repose ! Adieu ! dear family of la Reine« 



THE STRANGEK IN FRANCE. 141 



MADAME E^ 



Upon my return to Paris, I proceeded to the hotel of 
Monsieur R Curiosity led me to view the house, and 

the celebrated bed of his lady, who was then in London. 

The little vanities and eccentricities of this elegant and 
hospitable woman, will find immediate forgiveness, when it 
is known that she is now very young, and was married, 
when a spoiled child of the age of fourteen, to her present 
husband. She is one of David's most enthusiastic admir- 
ers, and has carried the rage for Grecian undress, to an 
extremity, which, even in the capital, left her without » 
follower. 

In the public walks of the Champs Elysees, she one 
evening presented herself in a dress which almost rivalled 
the robss of Paradise ; the parisians, who are remarkable 
for their politeness to women, and are not remarkable for 
scrupulous sentiments of delicacy, were so displeased with 
her appearance, that they made a lane to the entrance for 
her, and expelled the modern Eve from the Elysian Fields, 
not with a "flaming sword of wrath," but with hisses 
softly uttered, and by gentle tokens of polite disapprobation. 
She tells her friends, that her cabinet is crowded with letters 
of the most impassioned love, from persons of the first fame 
distinction, and opulence. In her parties, when conversa- 
tion begins to pause, she introduces som.e of these melting 
epistles, which she is said to read with a bewitching pathos, 
and never fails to close the fond recital by expressions of the 
tenderest pity for the sufferings of their ill-starred authors. 
She has declared, that some of her lovers equal the Belvi- 
dere Apollo in beauty, but that she never has yet seen that 



14g THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



MADAME R- 



being, who was perfect enough to be entitled to the posses- 
sion of her affections. Do not smile. Madame R is 

a disciple of Diana ; even slander pays incessant homage to 
her chastity. Rumour has whispered, in every corner of 
Paris, that her husband is only admitted to the honour of 
supplying the finances of her splendid and costly establish- 
ment. Madame R has not yet produced any of the 

beautiful and eloquent arguments of Corneha, to disprove 
the strange assertion. Her chamber, which constitutes one 
of the sights of Paris, and which, after what has been just 
mentioned, may be justly considered, in or out of France, 
as a great curiosity, is fitted up in a style of considerable 
taste, and even magnificence. The bed upon which this 
charming statue reposes, is a superb sofa, raised upon a pe- 
destal, the ascent to which is by a flight of cedar steps, on 
each side are altars, on which are placed Herculaneura 
vases of flowers, and a large antique lamp of gold ; the 
back of the bed is formed by an immense pier glass, and 
the curtains, which are of the most costly muslin, festooned 
with golden tassels, descend in beautiful drapery from a 
floral crown of gold. It is said that the late Emperor of 
Russia, after the laborious and successful diplomatic in- 
trigues of Messrs. Talleyrand and Sieyes, and a certain 
lady, became enamoured, by description, with the immac- 
ulate goddess of Mont Blanc, and that he sent confidential 
commissioners to Paris, to order copies of her furniture. 

The story may be believed, when the hero of it was 
well known to be fully qualified for one of the deepest 
dungeons of a mad-house. I hope, for the sake of society, 
and the repose of the world, th sit the rest cf Madame 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 145 

BRITISH AMBASSADOR TIVOLI. 

'R___-'s admirers have not united to their passion the 
bewildered imagination, which fatally distinguished, and 
finally closed the career of her imperial lover. 

Mr. R is very polite to the English, and his 

letters insure the greatest attention wherever they are pro- 
duced. 

From Mont Blanc I proceeded to the Hotel de Cara- 
mand, the residence of the British ambassador, to whom I 
had a letter of introduction, from a particular friend of his, 
and who received me with great politeness. His apart- 
ments were handsome, and looked into some beautiful gar- 
dens. Amongst the English, who were at this time in Pa- 
ris, a little prejudice existed against the representative of the 
British monarch, from a reason, which, within the jurisdic- 
tion of the Lord Mayor of London, and of most corporate 
towns in England, will be considered to carry considerable 
weight. The Envoy did not celebrate the late birth-day of 
his Sovereign, by a jolly and convivial dinner. The fact 
was, Mr. M— — , who by the sudden return of Mr. 
J— 5 became unexpectedly invested with the dignity of 
an Ambassador, was in constant expectation of being recall- 
ed, to make room for the intended appointment of Lord 
W— — to the consular court, in consequence of which, he 
had not prepared for the display of those splendid hospi- 
talities, which, on such occasions, always distinguish the 
table of a British house of embassy. 

On a Sunday ^ning I went with a party to Tivoli, a 
favorite place of aimusement with the parisians. At the 
entrance we found, as at all the public places^ a guard of 



144 THE StRANGER IN FRANCE. 

TIVOLI. THE WALTZ DANCE. 

horse, and foot* The admission is twenty sols. The eve- 
fling was very fine. We passed immense crowds of people^ 
who were flocking to the same place. Amongst them were 
many elegant, well dressed women, wholly unattended by 
gentlemen, a circumstance by no means unusual in Paris. 
This place seemed to be raised by the magic touch of en- 
chantment. We entered upon gravelled walksj which were 
cut through little winding, and intersecting hillocks of box ; 
those which formed the sides, were surmounted by orange 
trees, which presented a beautiful colonnade ; immediately 
after we had passed them, we entered an elegant treillageof 
honeysuckles, roses, and eglantine, which formed the grand 
entrance to the garden. Here a most animated scene of 
festivity opened upon us. On one side were rdpe dancers, 
people riding at the ring, groups of persons playing at shut- 
tlecockj which seemed to be the flivourite, and I may add^ 
the most ridiculous diversion ; on the other side, were dan- 
cers, tumblers, mountebanks, and parties, all with gay 
Countenances, seated in little bowers enjoying lemonadcj; 
and ices. In the centre, as we advanced, were about three 
hundred people, who were dancing the favourite waltz. 
This dance was brought fi*om Germany, -where, from its 
nature, the partners are always engaged lovers ; but the 
French, who think that nothing can be blamable which is 
susceptible of elegance, have introduced the German dance, 
without adhering to the German regulation. The atti- 
tudes of the waltz are very graceful, but they would not 
altogether accord with English female notions of delicacy. 
At a late fashionable Parisian bail, a gentleman present was 
requested by the lady of the house, to waits with a friend 



tnn STRANGER IN FRANCE. 145 



of hers, who was without a partner. The person of this 
neglected fair, was a little inclined to the nieao-re. The- 
gallant, without the least embarrassment, declined, observ- 
ing, *' Ah ! ma chere Madame, qu'exigez vous de moi^ 
*' ne savez vous pas qu*ellie n*a point de sein ?'* 

In the middle of the platform of the dancers, a very fine 
full band was playing. At the end of this raised stage, a very 
capacious Indian marquee was erected, which was beauti- 
fully illuminated with variegated lamps, and under its broad 
canopy, a large concourse of people was seated, some were 
enjoying conversation, some were playing at buillotte, drink- 
ing coffee, &c. Behind this building, was a noble Corinthian 
temple, from the doors of v/hich, were covered trellis walks^ 
leading to spacious gardens, which were formed to display 
the different tastes of the English, French, and Dutch na- 
tions, whose respective names they bore. These garden^ 
are intersected by little canals, upon which several per- 
sons were amusing themselves with the diversion of canoe 
facing. The whole was illuminated by large patent reflect- 
ing lamps, which shed a lustre alniost as brilliant as the daj^ 
A few English were present, amongst them were the Duch- 
ess of Cumberland, and a few other ladies. These o-ardens, 
previous to the revolution, were the property of a wealthy 
minister of France, who, it is said, expended near one hun- 
dred thousand pounds sterling, in bringing them to perfec- 
tion, which he just saw accomplished, when he closed his 
eyes upon the scaffold. The nation became their next pro- 
prietor, who sold them for a large sum of money to ther^ 
present owners. 



145 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

FRESCATI. 

From this place we went to Frescati, which is the pro- 
menade of the first beauty and fashion of Paris, who gene- 
rally assemble about half past ten o'clock, after the opera is 
concluded. No admission money is required, but singular 
as it may seem, no improper intruder has yet appeared, a 
circumstance which majr be accounted for by the awe which 
well bred society ever maintains over vulgarity, Frescati 
IS situated in the Italian Boulevard ; was formerly the resi- 
dence of a nobleman of large fortune, and has also under- 
gone the usual transition of revolutionary confiscation. 
The streets leading to it were filled with carriages. After 
ascending a flight of steps, from a handsome court yard, 
we entered a beautiful hall; which was lined with pier glas- 
ses, and decorated with festoons of artificial flowers ; at the 
end of it was a fine statue of Venus de Medicis. On one 
Side of this image was an arch, which led into a suite of six 
magnificent apartments, which were superbly gilt, painted, 
and also covered with pier glasses, and lustres of fine dia- 
mond cut glass, which latter, looked like so many little 
glittering cascades. Each room was in a blaze of light, 
and filled with parties, who were taking ices, or drinking 
coffee. Each room communicated with the others, by 
arches, or folding doors of mirrors. The garden is small, 
but very tastefully disposed. It is composed of three walks, 
which are lined with orange and acacia trees, and vases of 
roses. At the end is a tower liiounted on a rock, temples, 
and rustic bridges ; and on each side of the walks, are little 
labyrinth bowers. On the side next to the Boulevard, is a 
terrace which commands the whole scene, is lined on each 
side with beautiful vases of flowers, and is terminated at 
each end by alcoves, which arc lined, with mirrors. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 147 



Here, In the course of an hour, the astonished and ad- 
miring stranger, may see near three thousand females of the 
first beauty and distinction In Paris, whose cheeks are no 
longer disfigured by the corrosion of rouge, and who, by 
their symmetry and grace, would Induce him to believe that 
the loveliest figures of Greece, in her proudest eera^ wert 
revived, and moving before him , 



148 THE STEANGtER IN FRANCE 



CHAPTER XIV. 

fOonvenf of Blue Nmis> — Duchess de Biron,-^The bloody Ksy, 
— Courts of Justice. — Public Librari/. — Gobdines.—^Mm 
Limeood. — -Garden of P hints. -^-French Accommodation, -^^ 
Boot Cleaners. -^Cat and Dog Shearers.— Monsieur S-^-^ 
and Family. 

A HE English convent, or as It is called, the Convent of 
Blue Nuns, in the Rue de St. Victoire, is the only establish- 
ment of the kind, which throughout the republic, has survi^ 
ved the revolution. To what cause its exclusive protection 
is attributable, is not, 1 believe, correctly known. But 
though this spot of sacred seclusion, has escaped the final 
Stroke of extermination, it has sustained an ample share of 
the general desolation. During the time of terror, it was 
converted into a crowded prison of the female nobility, who 
-were here confined, and afterwards dragged from its clois- 
ters, and butchered by the guillotine, or the daggers of as- 
jsassins. 1 had a letter of introduction to Mrs. S- — — , one 
of the sistethood, a lady of distinguished family in England. 
I found her in the refectory. A dignified dejection over- 
spread her countenance, and her figure seemed much ema- 
ciated bv the scenes of horror through which he had passed. 
She informed me, that when the nuns were in a state of ar- 
restation by the order of Robespierre, the convent was so 
crowded v^ith prisoners, that they were obliged to eat their 
wretched meals in three different divisions. The places of 
the unhappy beings who were led off to execution, were 
immediately filled by fresh victims. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 149 



DUCHESSE DE BIRON. BLOODY KEY. 



Amongst those who suffered, was the beautiful youno" 
Duchesse de Biron, said to be one of the loveliest women 
of the French court. Her fate was singular and horrible. 
One morning, two of the assi^tant executioners came into 
one of the rooms, and called upon the female citizen Biroa 
to come forward, meaning the old Duchesse de Biron, the 
mother, who was here immured with her dauc^hter ; some 
one said, which of them do jou require? The hell-hounds 
replied, ** Our order was for one only, but as there are two, 
*« we will have both, that there may be no error,'* The 
Kiother and daughter w^ere taken away, locked senseless in 
each other's arms. When the cart which carried them, ar- 
lived ixt the foot of the scaffold, the chief executioner look- 
ed at his paper, which contained a list of his victims, and 
saw the name of only one Biron ; the assistants informed 
him that they found two of that name in the convent, and 
to prevent mistake, they had brought both. The princi-. 
pal, with perfect sang froid, said it was all well, wrote witli 
a pencil the article ** les" before the name Biron, to which 
Jie added an s, and immediately beheaded both ! ! 1 

Mrs. S led me to the chapel, to show me the 

havoc which the unsparing impious hands of the revolution 
had there produced. She put into my hand an immense 
massy key to open the door of the choir. *« That key," 
said she, ** was made for the master-key of the convent, by 
** the order of Robespierre, In the time of terror, our 
** gaoler wore it at his belt. A thousand times has my 
** soul sunk within me, when it loudly pushed the bolt of 
.^* the lock aside. When the door opened, it was either a 



150 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

CHAPEL OF THE BLUE NUNS. COURTS OF JUSTICE. 

" signal to prepare for instant death to some of those who 
** were within, or for the gloomy purpose of admitting new 
*' victims." When we entered the chapel, my surprise 
and abhorrence were equally excited. The windows were 
beaten through, the hangings were flapping in the wind, 
the altar was shattered in pieces and prostrate, the pavement 
was every where torn up, and the caves of the dead were 
still yawning upon us. .From their solemn and hallowed 
depths, the mouldering relics of the departed had been rai- 
sed by torch light, and heaped in frightful piles of unfinish- 
ed decay against the walls, for the purpose of converting the 
lead, which contained these wretched fragments of mortal!-* 
ty, into balls for the musketry of the revolution. The gar- 
dens behind the chapel must have been once very pleasant, 
but they then had the appearance of a wilderness. The 
painful uncertainty of many years, had occasionened the 
neglect and ruin in which I saw them. Some of the nuns 
were reading upon shattered seats, under the overgrown 
bowers, and others were walking in the melancholy shade 
of neglected avenus. The effect of the whole was gloomy 
and sorrowful, and fully confirmed the melancholy recital 

which I received from Mrs. S -. Bonaparte, it is 

said, intends to confirm to these nuns their present resi- 
dence, by an act of government. 

Upon leaving the convent, I visited the seats of cassation 
and justice, in the architectural arrangement of which, I 
saw but little worthy of minute notice, except the perfect 
accommodation which pervades all tlie French buildings, 
which are appropriated to the administration of the laws. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 151 

NATIONAL LIBRARY. — GOBELINES. 

The hall of the first cassation, or grand court of appeal, 
is very fine. The judges wear ekgant costumes, and were, 
as well as the advocates, seated upon chairs, which were 
constructed to imitate the seats of Roman magistracy, and 
had a good effect. I was informed, that the whole of the 
ornamental arransfement was designed bv David. 

From the courts of justice, I went to the second national 
library, which is very noble and large, and has a valuable 
collection of books. Several students were arranged with 
great silence and decorum, at long tables. In one apart- 
ment, is a very large and ingenious model of Rome in a 
glass case, and another of a frigate. 

Upon leaving the library I proceeded to the Gobelins, 
so called from one Gobel, a noted dyer at Rheims, who 
settled here in the reign of Francis I. This beautiful manu- 
factory has a crowd of visitors every day. Upon the walls 
of the galleries the tapestry is suspended, which exhibits 
very exquisite copies of various historical paintings, of which 
there are some very costly and beautiful specimens. The 
artists work behind the frame, where the original from 
which they copy is placed. The whole is a very expensive 
national estabhshment, much of its production is preserved 
for presents to foreign princes, and some of it is disposed 
of by public sale. 

Upon the comparison between the works of the Gobe- 
lins, and the beautiful works of Miss Linwood, I could not 
help feeling a little degree of pride, to observe, that my in- 
gefnious countrywoman did not appear to suffer by it. Too 



1^2 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 

MISS LINWOOD. GARDEN OF PLANTS — MENAGERIE. 

r" ■• ' ■ ' ■ - ' - --- •»-- - ■'■ -■-' ■ ■ ■ ' — 

much praise cannot be bestowed upon the tasteful pahjtingg 
of her exquisite needle. This elegant minded woman has 
manifested by her charming exhibition, that great genius i» 
not always separated from great labour, and unwearied 
perseverance. 

From the Gobelins I visited the garden of plants, which 
is considered to be the largest and most valuable botanical 
collection in Europe, and was founded by the celebrated 
Buffon. The garden is laid out into noble walks, and 
beds, containing the rarest plants from all parts of the world, 
each of which is neatly labelled for the use of the students. 
On the right of the entrance is a park containing all sorts 
of deer, and on the left are vast hothouses and greenhouses j 
in the centre, enclosed in iron lattice work, is a large pond 
for the reception of foreign aquatic animals, very near 
which is a large octagon experimental bee-hive, about ten 
feet high, and at the end, near the banks of the Seine, is a 
fine menagerie, in which amongst other beasts, there are 
some noble lions. IVlany of the animals have separate houses, 
and gardens to range in. Adjoining is the'' park of the ele- 
phant. This stupendous animal, from the ample space in 
which he moves, is seen to great advantage, and is consider- 
ed to be the largest of his species in Europe. Near the 
entrance, on the right, is the museum of natural curiosities, 
the collection of which is very valuable, and admirably 
arranged. There is here a fine giraffe, or camelopard, of 
an amazing height, stuffed. This surprising animal is a 
native of Ethiopia, and some other parts of Africa, and hat 
scarcely ever been seen in Europe* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 153 



CAT ANO DOG SHEARERS. 

From the garden of plants, I made all possible dispatch 

to Madame C — 's, in the Boulevard Italien, where I was 

engaged to dinner. 

Upon crossing the Pont Neuf, where there are a num- 
ber of little stalls erected, the owners of which advertise 
upon little boards, which are raised upon poles, that they 
possess extraordinary talents for shearing dogs and cats ; I 
could not help stopping, and laughing most heartily, to 
observe the following address to the public from one of 
these canine and grimalkin functionaries : 

*' Monin, tondit et coups 
*' Ics chiens la cJiatie 
" et safanme 
*' vat en mltej** 

Which runs in this ridiculous manner in English i 

*' Monin shears and cuts 

" dogs and cats and his xvife 

*' goes on err ends. 

As I had no time to return to ray hotel to dress, I was 
initiated into a mode of expeditiously equipping myself, by 
a young friend who was with me, to which I was before ai 
stranger, and which shows in the most trifling matters, that 
the French are good adepts in expedition and accommoda- 
tion. In passing through the Palais Royal, we entered 
the little shop of a boot-cleaner. In a moment I wasi 
mounted upon a dirty sofa, to which I ascended by steps; 



t54 'J^HE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

BOOT CLEANERS. MONSIEUR S 

and from which I had a complete commanding view of 
the concourse of gay people, who are always passing and 
repassing in this idle place ; the paper of the day, stretched 
upon a little wooden frame, was placed in my hand, each 
foot was fixed upon an iron anvil, one man brushed off the 
dirt, and another put on a shining blacking, a third brushed 
my clothes, and a fourth presented a basin of water and 
towel to me. The whole of this comfortable operation 
lasted about four minutes. My dirty valets made me a 
low bow for four sols, which, poor as the recompense was, 
exceeded their expectations by three pieces of that petty 
coin. 

In the evening, I had the happiness of being introduced 

to Monsieur S -. Under his noble and hospitable roof, 

amidst his affectionate, beautiful, and accomplished family, 
and in the select circle of his elegant and enlightened society, 

I passed many happy hours. Monsieur S was of a 

noble family, and previous to the revolution, was one of 
the fermiers generaux, and possessed a very noble fortune. 
In dischareins the duties of his distinguished and lucrative 
office, he conciliated the affections of every one, who had 
the good fortune to be comprehended within the compass 
of his honourable authority, and when the revolution strip- 
ped him of it, it found his integrity without a stain, except 
what, in the bewildered interpretation of republican fury, 
adhered to him from his connection with the old established 
order of things. 

In the general and undistinguishing cry for blood, 
■which yelled from the remorseless assassins of Robespierre, 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 155 

MONSIEUR S AND FAMILY. 

this admirable man was consigned to a dungeon, and 
doomed to the scaffold. 

Two hours before he was to suffer, the remembrance 
of the noble victim, and of a series of favours, of kindness, 
and of generosity, flashed, with momentary but irresistible 
compunction, upon the mind of one of his sanguinary 
judges, who, suspending the bloody proceedings which 
then occupied the court, implored the compassion of his 
fell associates. He pleaded until he had obtained his dis- 
charge ; and then, at once forgetting the emotions of 
mercy, which had inspired his tongue with the most per- 
suasive eloquence, he very composedly resumed the func- 
tions of his cruel occupation, and consigned to the fatal 
instrument of revolutionary slaughter, other beings, whose 
virtues were less renowned, or less fortunfite in their sphere 
of operation. 

Monsieur S had reached his sixty-eighth year, but 

seemed to possess all the vivacity and health of youth. His 
lady was a very amiable, and enlightened woman. Their 
family consisted of a son and three daughters, all of them 
handsome, and very highly accomplished. The eldest, 

Madame E -, excelled in music ; the second, Madame 

B , in poetry and the classics ; and the youngest. 

Mademoiselle Delphine, in drawing and singing. 

I shall, perhaps, be pardoned for introducing a little 
improm.ptu compliment, which the pure and unassuming 
merits of the youngest of the family, drew from my pen, 



156 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



MONSIEUR S AND FAMILY. 



in consequence of the conversation one evening 
upon the indecorum of the tunic dress, amongst the ele- 
gantes of Paris. 

TO MADEMOISELLE D. S. 

\Vhi'st art array'd in iur,2c robe, 

Tries over fashion's gaudj' globe, 
To hold resistless force, 
Thy merits shall impede her course. 

For grace and nature gain in thee, 

A chaste, decisive victory. 

From the general wreck of property. Monsieur S ■ ■ 
Jias been fortunate enough to save a considerable portion of 
his former fortune. A similar favourable circumstance, has, 
in general, rewarded the fortitude and constancy of those, 
who, in the political storm, refused to seek a dastard safety 
by flight. Influenced by the reputation of the integrity, 
talents, and experience of Monsieur S , the First Con- 
sul has deservedly placed him at the head of the national 
accounts, which he manages with great advantage, and 
honour to the government. 

i was pressed to make this charming house my home. 
Upon a noble terrace, which communicated with the 
drawing room, and commanded a view of all the gaiety 
and fashion of the Italien Boulevard, which moved below 
us, in the circle of some of the most amiable people of Paris, 
we used to enjoy the refreshing coolness of the evening, the 
graceful unpremeditated dance, or the sounds of enchant- 
In this happy spot all parties assembled. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 15T 

MONSIEUR S AND FAMILY. 

Those who had been divided by the ferocity of politics, 
here met In amicable intercourse. I have, in the same 
room, observed, the once pursuing republican conqueror, 
in social converse with the captive Vendean general, who 
had sub nitted to his prowess, and to the government. 
The sword was not merely sheathed — it was concealed m 
flowers. To please, and to be pleased ; to charm, and 
to enlighten, by interchanges of pleasantry, and politeness, 
and talents, and acquirements, se.med alone to occupy the 
generous minds of this charming society. The remem- 
brance of the hours which I passed under this roof, will af- 
ford my mind delight, as long as the faculty of memory re- 
mains, or until high honour, and munificient hospitality 
have lost their value, and genius and beauty, purity and 
elegance, have no longer any attractions. 



15S THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Civiliti/ of a SentineL'—HaU of the Legislative AssemUy »'-^ 
British House of Commons .'— -Captain Bergeret, — The Tern" 
pie, — Sir Sidney Smithes escape. — Colonel Phillipeaux, 

v/NE morning, as I was entering the grand court of the 
hall of the Legislative Assembly, I was stopped by a sentry. 
I told him I was an English?nan. He politely begged my 
pardon, and requested me to pass, and called one of the 
housekeepers to show me the apartments. 

This magnificent pile is in the Fauxbourg St. Germain, 
and was formerly the palace of the Bourbons. After pass- 
ing through a suite of splendid apartments, I entered, 
through lofty folding doors, into the hall, were the legis- 
lators assemble. It is a very spacious semicircular room, 
and much resembles, in its arrangements, the appearance of 
a splendid theatre before the stage. The ascent to the seat 
of the president, is by a flight of light marble steps ; the facing 
of his bureau is composed of the most costly marble, rich- 
ly carved. On each side of the president's chair, are seats 
for the secretaries ; and immediately below them is the 
tribune, into which the orator ascends to address the House. 
On each side of the seat of the president, are antique statues 
of eminent patriots and orators, which are placed in niches 
in the wall. Under the tribune, upon the centre of the 
floor, is the altar of the country, upon which, in marble, 
is represented the book of the laws, resting upon branches 
of olive. Behind it, upon semicircular seats, the legislators. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. u§ 



THE HALL OF THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY. 



fit, at the back of whom are the boxes of the ambassadors, 
and officers of state, and immediately above them, within a 
colonnade of Corinthian pillars, the public are admitted. 
]lound the upper part of the cornice, a beautiful festoon of 
lilac coloured cloth, looped up with rich tassels, is sus- 
pended, for the purpose of correcting the vibration of the 
voice. The whole is very superb, and has cost the nation 
an immense sum of money. The principal housekeeper 
asked me whether our speakers had such a place to declaim 
in ? I told him, " that we had very great orators in England, 
but that they were content to speak in very little places.*' 
He laughed, and observed, ** that Frenchmen never talked 
to so much advantage, as when their eye was pleased,** 

This man, I found, had been formerly one of the door- 
keepers of the National Assembly, and was present, when, 
after having been impeached by Billaud, Panis, and their 
colleagues, Tallien discharged his pistol at Robespierre, 
whom he helped to support, until the monster vvas finally 
dispatched' by the guillotine, on the memorable 9th of 
Thermidor. 

The French are amazingly fond of finery and stage 
effect. The solicitude which always first manifested itself 
after any political change in the course of the revolution, was 
the external decoration of each new puppet, who, arrayed 
in the brief authority of the fleeting moment, was permitted 
to *' play his fantastic tricks before high Heaven.'* 

The poor battered ark of government was left overturned, 
under the protection of an escort of assassins, in the ensau- 



160 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



BRITISH HOUSE OF COMMONS. 



guined mud, upon the reeking headless bodies of its for- 
mer bearers, until its new supporters had adjusted the rival 
pretensions of silk and satin, and had consulted the pattern 
book of the lace-man in the choice of their embroidery. 
On one side of the arch which leads into the anti-room of 
the legislative assembly, are suspended patterns and designs 
for tickets of admission to the sitting, elegantly framed, and 
near the same place, in a long gallery which leads to the 
dressing-rooms of the legislators, are boxes which contain 
the senatorial robes of the members. 

The meetings of our House of Commons would Inspire 
more awe and veneration, if more attention was paid to 
decorum, and external decoration. A dignified and manly- 
magnificence would not be unsuitable to the proceedings of 
the sanctuary of British laws, and the seat of unrivalled elo- 
quence. What would a perfumed French legislator say, 
accustomed to rise in the rustling of embroidered silks, and 
gracefully holding in his hand, a cap of soft and showy 
plumes, to address himself to alabaster statues, glittering 
lustres, Grecian chairs, festoons of drapery, and an audience 
of beings tricked out as fine as himself, were he to be sud- 
denly transported into a poor and paltry room, meanly 
lighted, badly ventilated, and inconveniently arranged, and 
to be told, that, in that spot, the representatives of the first 
nation in the world, legislated for her subjects ? What 
would he say, were he to see and hear, in the mean attire of 
jockeys and mechanics, such orators as Greece and Rome 
never saw or heard in the days of their most exalted glory ; 
Bnfolding with the penetration of a subordinate Providenee,- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 161 



CAPTAIN DKRGERKT. 



the machinations of a dark and deep conspiracy, erecting 
elaborate laws to shelter the good, against the enemies of 
repose, or hurling the thunder of their eloquence against the 
common foes of their country. The astonished Frenchman 
would very likely say, *' 1 always thought that the English 
** were a strange set of beings, but they now exceed the 
*' powers of my comprehension ; they can elicit wit in the 
** midst of gloom, and can say such things in a plain un- 
** brushed coat o^ blut cloth, as all the robes, plumes, and 
** finery of the republic, in her gaudy hallb of deliberation, 
*' cannot inspire,'* 

From the legislative assembly I went to pa}^ my respects 
to the gallant Captain Bergeret, ro whom I had letters of 
introduction. It will be immediately remembered, that 
this distinguished hero, in the Virginie, displayed the most 
undaunted courage, when she Vv'as engaged by Sir Edward 
Pellew, in the Indefatigable, to whose superior prowess and 
naval knowledge, he was obliged to strike the tri-colour 
flag. His bravery and integrity have justly entitled him to 
the admiration and lasting friendship of his noble con- 
queror, and to the esteem of the British nation. 

When Sir Sidney Smith was confined in the Temple^ 
and Captain Bergeret a prisoner in England, the latter was 
sent to France upon his parole, to endeavour to effect the 
exchange of Sir Sidney, The French government, whicH 
was then under the direction of some of the basest and 
meanest of her tyrants, refused to listen to the proposal ; 
and, at the same time, resisted the return of their owii 
countryman. 



162 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

THE TEMPLE.— SIR SIDNEY SMITH'S ESCAPE. 

The gallant Bergeret was resolved to preserve his word 
of honour unsullied, or to perish in the attempt. Finding 
all his efforts to obtain the release of the illustrious captive, 
unavailing, menaced with death if he departed, and invited 
by promised command and promotion if he remained, 
he contrived to quit his own country by stealth, and returned 
a voluntary exile to his generous and confiding conquerors. 

From Captain B *s hotel I went to the Temple, so 
celebrated in the gloomy history of the revolution. It 
stands in the Rue du Temple, in the Fauxbourg of that 
name. The entrance is handsome, and does not much im- 
press the idea of the approach to a place of such confine- 
ment. Over the gates is a pole, supporting a dirty and 
tattered bonnet rouge, of which species of republican deco- 
ration there are very few now to be seen in Paris. 

The door was opened to me by the principal gaoler, 
whose predecessor had been dismissed on account of hii 
imputed connivance in the escape of Sir Sidney Smith. 

His appearance seemed fully to qualify him for his 
savage office, and to insure his superiors against all future 
apprehension, of a remission of duty by any act of human- 
ity, feeling, or commiseration. 

He told me, that he could not permit me to advance 
beyond the lodge, on account of a peremptory order which 
he had just received from government. From this place 
I had a full command of the walk and prison, the latter of 
which is situated in the centre of the- walls. He pointe'l 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 1(JS 



SIR SIDNEY SMITH S ESCAPE. 



out to me the window of the room in which the royal suf» 
ferers languished. 

As the story of Sir Sidney Smlth*s escape from this 
prison, has been involved in some ambiguity, a short recital 
of it, willj perhaps, not prove uninteresting. 

After several months had rolled away, since the gates of 
his prison bad first closed upon the British hero, he observ- 
ed that a lady who lived in an upper apartment on the 
-opposite side of the street, seemed frequently to look toward 
that part of the prison in which he was confined. As often 
as he observed her, he played some tender air upon his 
flute, by which, and by imitating every motion which she 
made, he at length succeeded in fixing her attention upon 
him, and had the happiness of remarking that she occasion- 
ally observed him with a glass. 

One mornlnsr when he saw that she was looklncj atten* 
tlvely upon him in this manner, he tore a blank leaf from 
an old mass book which was lying in his cell, and with 
the soot of the chimney, contrived, by his finger, to describe 
upon it, in a large character, the letter A, which he held to 
the window to be viewed by his fair sympathizing observer. 
After gazing upon it for some little time, she nodded, to 
show that she understood what he meant. Sir Sidney then 
touched the top of the first bar of the grating of his window, 
which he wished her to consider as the representative of the 
letter A, the second B, and so on, until he had formed froni 
the top of the bars, a corres[)onding number of letters ; and 
by touching the middle, and bottom parts of them, upon 



164 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

SIR SIUKEY smith's ESCAPE COLONEL PHELIPEAUX. 

a line with each other, he easily, after having inculcated 
the first impression of his wishes, completed a telegraphic 
alphabet. This process of communication, was, from its 
iiature, very slow, but Sir Sidney had the happiness of ob- 
serving, upon forming the fxrst word, that this excellent be- 
in^^, vvho beamed before him like a guardian angel, seemed 
completely to comprehend it, which she expressed by an 
assenting movement of the head. 

Frequently obliged to desist from this tacit and tedious 
intercourse, from the dread of exciting the curiosity of the 
gaolers, or his fellow prisoners, who were permitted to 
walk before his window. Sir Sidney occupied several days 
in communicating to his unknown friend, his name and 
quality, and imploring her to procure some unsuspected 
royalist of consequence and address sufficient for the un- 
dertakino-, to effect his escape ; in the achievement of which 
he assured her, upon his word of honour, that whatever 
cost mio-ht be incurred, would be amply reimbursed, and 
that the bounty and gratitude of his country would nobly 
remunerate those who had the talent and bravery to accom- 
plish it. By the same means he enabled her to draw con- 
fidential and accredited bills, for considerable sums of 
money, for the promotion of the scheme, which she applied 
with the most perfect integrity. 

Colonel Phelipeaux was at this time at Paris ; a military 
man of rank, and a secret royalist, most devoutly attached 
-to the fortunes of the exiled family of France, and to those 
who supported their cause. He had been long endeavour-? 
ing to bring to maturity, a plan for facilitating their resto^ 



*rHE STRANGER IN FRANCE. lOa 

COLONEL PHEL1PEA.UX 

" ■ ' -^ 

ration, but which the loyal adherent, from a series of un* 
toward and uncontrollable circumstances, began to despair 
of accomplishing. 

The lovely deliverer of Sir S'dney, applied to this distin- 
guished character, to whom she wus known, and stilted the 
singular correspondence which had taken ])lace between 
herself and the heroic captive in the Temple, 

PhelipeauTT, who was acquainted with the fame of Sir 
Sidney, and chagrined at the failuie of his former favourite 
scheme, embraced the present project with a sort of pro- 
phetic enthusiasm, by which he hoped to restore to the 
British nation, one of her greatest heroes, who, by his skill 
and valour, might once more impress the common enemy 
with dismay, augment the glory of his country, and ccver 
himself with the iaurels of future victory. 

Intelligent, active, cool, daring, and insinuating, Colo- 
pel Phelipeaux: immediately applied himself to bring to ma- 
turity, a plan at once suitable to his genius, and interestino' 
to his wishes. To those, whom it was necessary to employ 
upon the occasion, he contrived to unite one of the clerks 
of the mini.'^ter of the police, who forged his signature with 
exact imitation, to an order for removing the body of Sir 
Sidney from the Temple to the prison of the Conciergerie, 

After this was accomplished, on the day after that on 
which the inspector of gaols was to visit the Temple and 
Conciergerie, a ceremon}^, which is performed once a 
month in Paris, two gentlemen of tried courage and ad- 
dress, who were previously instructed by Colonel Phell- 



16Q THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

COLONEL PHELIPEAUX 

peaux, disguised as officers of the marechaussee, presented 
themselves in a fiacre at the Temple, and demanded the 
delivery of Sir Sidney, at the same time showing the forged 
order for his removal. This the gaoler attentively perused 
and examined, as well as the minister's signature. 

Soon after the register of the prison informed Sir Sidney 
of the order of the Directory, upon hearing which, he at 
first appeared to be a little disconcerted, upon which the 
pseudo-officers gave him every assurance of the honour and 
mild intentions of the government towards him. Sir Sidney 
seemed more reconciled, packed up his clothes, took leave 
of his fellow prisoners, and distributed little tokens of his 
gratitude to those servants of the prison, from whom he had 
experienced indulgencies. 

Upon the eve of their departure, the register observed, 
that four of the prison guard should accompany them. 
This arrangement menaced the whole plan with immediate 
dissolution. The officers, without betraying the least emo- 
tion, acquiesced in the propriety of the measure, and gave 
orders for the men to be called out, when, as if recollecting 
the rank and honour of their illustrious prisoner, one of 
them addressed Sir Sidney, by saying, ** Citizen, you are 
** a brave officer, give us your parole, and there is no occa- 
**sion for an escort.** Sir Sidney replied, that he would 
pledge his faith, as an officer, to accompany them without 
resistance, wherever they chose to conduct him, 

N^ot a look or movement betrayed the intention of the 
party. Every thing was cool, well-timed, and natural. 
They entered a fiacre, which, as is usual, was brought £oi 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 167 

COLONliL PHELIPEAUX. 

the purpose of removing him, in which he found changes 
of clothes, false passports, and money. The coach moved 
with an accustomed pace, to the Fauxbourg St. Germain, 
where they alighted, and parted in different directions. 
Sir Sidney met Colonel Phelipeaux at the appointed spot 
of rendezvous. 

The project was so ably planned and conducted, that no 
one but the party concerned, was acquainted with the 
escape, until near a month had elapsed, when the inspector 
paid his next periodical visit. 

What pen can describe the sensations of two such men 
as Sir Sidney and Phelipeaux, when they first beheld each 
other in safety ? Heaven befriended the generous and gal- 
lant exploit. Sir Sidney and his noble friend, reached the 
French cqast wholly unsuspected, and committing them- 
selves to their God, and to the protective genius of brave 
men, put to sea in an open boat, and were soon afterwards 
discovered by an English cruising frigate, and brought in 
safety to the British shores. 

The gallant Phelipeaux soon afterwards accompanied 
Sir Sidney, in the Tigre, to Acre, where, overwhelmed by 
the fatigue of that extraordinary campaign, in which he sup- 
ported a distinguished part, and the noxious Influence of a 
sultry cHmate, operating upon a delicate frame, he expired, 
in the arms of his illustrious friend, who attended him to 
his grave, and shed the tears of gratitude and friendship over 
his honoured and lamented obsequies. But, ere the dying 
Phelipeaux closed his eyes, he received the rewards of his 



IQS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



SIR SIDNEY SMITH 



generous enterprise. He beheld the repulsed legions of the 
Republici flying before the British banners, and the irresisti- 
ble prowess of bis valiant companion ; he beheld the dis- 
tinguished being, whom he h;id thus rescued from a dun- 
geon, and impendino; destruction, by an act of almost ro- 
mantic heroism, covered with the unparticipated glory, of 
having overpowered a leader, who, renowned, and long ac- 
customed to conquest, saw, for the first time, his inv'mcible 
troop'i give way ! ! who, inflj.med to desperation, deemed 
the perilous exposure of his person, necessary to rally them 
to the contest, over bridges of their slaughtered comrades, 
but who, at length, was oblicred to retire from the field of 
battle, and to leave to the heroic Sir Sidney, the exclusive 
exultation of announcing to his grateful and elated coun- 
try, that he had fought, and vanquished the laurelled con- 
queror of Italy, and the bold invader of Egypt. 

Sir Sidney has no vices to conceal behind his spreading 
and imperishable laurels. His public character is before 
the approving world. That peace which his sword has ac- 
celerated, has afforded us an undisturbed opportunity of ad- 
miring his achievements in the field, and of contemplating 
his conduct in the retired avenues of private life, in which his 
deportment is without a stain. In him there is every thing 
to applaud, and nothing to forgive, 

Yetf thus glorious in public, and thus unsullied in private^ 
the Conqueror of Bonaparte, and the Saviour of the 
Easty owes the honours^ which he adorns, to foreign and 
distant Powers i ! i 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. im 



SIR SIDNEY SMITH. 



To the grateful government of his own country, be is 
indebted for an ungracious paltry annuity, inadequate to 
the displajr of ordinary consequence, and wholly unequal 
to the suitable support of that dignity, which ought for 
ever to distinguish such a being from the mass of mankind; 

The enemies of Sir Sidney, for envy furnishes every 
great man with his quota of such indirect eulogists, if they 
should .honour these pages witli a perusal, may, perchance, 
endeavour to trace the approving warmth with which I 
have spoken of him, to the enthusiasm of a friendship daz- 
zled, and undiscriminating ; but I beg to assure them, that 
the fame of Sir Sidney is better known to me than his per- 
son, and that his noble qualities have alone excited the hum- 
ble tribute which is here offered to one, for whom delighted 
Nature, in the language of our immortal bard, 

** might stand up, 

** And say to all the world, this is a man——" 



X 



170 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



CHAPTER XVI. 

A fashionable Poem.<—Frere Ric/iarf,-—Rel?gio7i. — Hotel des 
Invalides. — Hall of Victory^ — Enemies* Colours. — SulJci/ 
appearance of an English Jack and Ensign. ^—Indecorum.'— 
The aged Captain. — Military School. — Champ de Mars» — 
The Garden of Mousseaux. 

JL HE conversation, whilst I was at Paris, was much en- 
gaged by a poem, describing the genius and progress of 
Christianity written in imitation of the style of Ossian, 
which excited very considerable curiosity. From the re- 
marks of some shrewd acquaintances of mine, who had 
perused the work, I learnt that the principles of the poem 
seemed strongly tinctured with the bewildered fancies of a 
disordered mind, conveyed in very heavy prosaic blank 
verse, ** It was the madness of poetry, without the inspi- 
•« ration.** 

This composition may be considered as a curiosity, 
from other reasons than those which mere criticism affords. 
The poem was bad, the readers were many. The subject 
was sacred, the author a reputed atheist, and the profits 
which it produced exceeded two thousand pounds sterling. 
The fortunate writer relieved himself from the jaws of 
famine by this strange incomprehensible eulogy on the 
charms and advancement of Christianity, which has been re- 
ceived in Paris, with a sort of fashionable frenzy. Another 
pseudo bard has announced his intention very shortly of 
issuing from the press, a work, which he conceives, will 
be more saleable and a greater favourite with the public, 
in which he intends ironically to combat the doctrine of 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. I71 

A FASHIONABLE POEM FRERE RICHART. 

the Trinity, by gravely resembling it to the Deity taking 
snuff between two looking glasses, so that when he sneezes, 
two resemblances of him are seen to sneeze also, and yet 
that there are not three sneezers, but one sneezer. 

Some other outlines of this work were imparted to me 
at Paris, but the pen turns with disgust and detestation,. 
from such low and nauseous profanation. I have only 
condescended to mention the composition, and the last 
anecdote, to show how much the world is deluded, by the 
received opinion, that the trench are become a new race of 
exemplary devotees. The recoil from atheism to enthu- 
siasm, is not unusual ; but the French in general, have not, 
as yet, experienced this change. That they are susceptible 
of extraordinary transitions, their history and revolution 
have sufficiently manifested. In the Journal de Paris, 
written in the reigns of Charles VI and VII, is preserved 
rather a curious account of the velocity with which reli- 
gious zeal, has, in former periods, been excited. *' On the 
*« 4th day of April, 142D," says the journal, "the Duke of 
*' Burgundy came to Paris, with a very fine body of 
** knights and esquires ; and eight days afterwards there 
" came to Paris, a cordelier, by name Frere Richart, a 
** man of great prudence, very knowing in prayer, a giver 
" of good doctrine to edify his neighbour, and was so 
*' successful, that he who had not seen him, was bursting 
** with envy against those who had. He was but one day 
** in Paris, without preaching. He began his sermon 
•* about five o'clock in the morning, and continued preach- 
*' ing till ten or eleven o'clock, and there were always 
" between five and six thousand persons to hear him 



J7§ THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



FREKE RICHART. 



** preach. This cordelier preached on St. Mark's day, 
*' attended by the like number of persons, and on their 
*« return from his sermon, the people of Paris were so 
<« turned, and moved to devotion, that in three or four 
*' hours time, there were more than one hundred fires 
« lio-hted, in which they burnt their chess boards, theiy 
f back-gammon tables, and their packs of cards.*' 

To this sort of fanaticism, the parisians are unquestiona- 
bly not arrived, A more eloquent man than the Frere 
Richart, must appear amongst tliem, before such meliora- 
tions as are recorded in the Paris journal, can be effected in 
the dissolute and uncontrolled hab.ts of that gay and volup- 
tuous city. I do not mean,, from any previous remark 
■which I have made, to infer that there are not many good 
and veiy pious people in the country, and it has been a 
favourable circumstance to the ancient religion of France, 
that the revolution never attempted any reform in it, or to 
substitute another mode of v^orship. That great political 
change, in the ebullition of its fury, prostrated the altars of 
the old church, without raising others of a new, or improv- 
ed construction. It presented a hideous rebellion against 
the glorious Author of all good, and declared an indiscrimi- 
nate war of extermination against his ministers and follow- 
• ers, and every principle of the Gospel and morality. Every 
form of faith, every mode of adoration, fell indiscriminately 
■under the proscriptions of its unsparing wrath. The tow- 
ering abbey and humble oratory, were alike swept avj-ny in 
the general tornado, and mingled their ruins together. But 
the race of the good were not ail expelled from this scene 
|)f havoc and outrage. The voice of piety still found a 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 173 



RELIGION, 



passage to her God. The silent prayer pierced through the 
compact covering of the dungeon, and ascended to Heaven, 
Within the embowering unsearchable recesses of the soul, 
far beyond the reach of revolutionary persecution, the pure 
unappaiied spirit of devotion erected her viewless temple, in 
secret magnilicence, sublime, and unassailable 1 

The child who had never heard the bell of the Sabbath 
soun 1, who had never beheld the solemn ceremonies, of 
authorized adoration, was told that those awful and splendid 
piles, which filled his eyes with wonder, and his mind with 
instinctive reverence, were raised for other purposes than 
those of becominc^ auxiliary to the ferocity of war. That 
genius and taste, and toil and cost, had not thus expended 
their unrivalled powers, and lavished their munificent re- 
sources, in erecting guthic magazines of gunpowder, and 
Saxon he Is for the accommodation of atheistic fabricators 
ot revo.utionary cannon balls. 

The young: observer, in private and by stealth, Imbil)ed, 
from parental precept or example, the sentiment of a national 
religion, sup])ressed, net extinguished, or in the gloomy ab- 
sence of all indications of it, remained unsolicited by any 
rival mode of worship to bestow his ai)0Ptacy upon an alien 
creed. Thus the minds of the rising generation, who were 
engaged in favour of the catholic per&uasion, during the 
frightful period of its long denunciation, by stolen, secluded 
and untiiiished displays of its fpirit and form, contemplated 
its return with animated elation, or beheld its approach, un-^ 
impressed with those doubts or prejudices, which religious, 
as well as secular competitions, very frequently excite ; in 



174 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



MONSIEUR CHARLES. 



that auspicious hour, when the policy, if not the piety of a 
powerful government, restored it to the French people. 
The subject is highly interesting; but I must resign it to 
abler pens for more ample discussion. 

I was much gratified by being presented to the celebrated 

philosopher Mons. Charles, by Madame S , He has a 

suite of noble apartments in the Louvre, which have been 
bestowed upon him by the government, as a grateful re- 
ward for his having presented to the nation his magnificent 
collection of philosophical apparatus. He has also, in con- 
sideration of his ability and experience, been constituted the 
principal lecturer on philosophy. In these rooms, his 
valuable and costly donation is arranged. In the centre of 
the dome of the first apartment, called the Hall of Electri- 
city, is suspended the. car of the first balloon which was 
inflated with inflammable air, in which he and his brother 
ascended in the afternoon of the 1st of December, 1783, in 
which' they continued in the air for an hour and three 

quarters ; and after they had descended, Mons. C rose 

alone to the astonishing height of 10,500 feet. In the same 
room, are immense electrical machines and batteries, some 
of which had been presented to him by Madame S . 

In this room, amongst many other fanciful figures, 
which are used for the purpose of enlivening the solemnity 
of a philosophical lecture, by exciting sentiments of innocent 
gaiety, was a little Cupid. The tiny god, with his arrow 
in his hand, was insulated upon a throne of glass, and was 
charged with that electric fluid which not a little resembles 
the subtle spirit of his nature. The youngest daughter of 
Madame S — ^, who accompanied us, was requested to 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 175 

OPTICAL ILLUSION. 

touch it. In a moment It discharged its penetratins spark, 
— *' Oh I how that little god has alarmed me !*' said the 
recoiling fair one, whose youthful countenance surprise had 
imbued with new beauties) " but yet'* said she, recovering 
herself, '* /le does not /lurt.^* This little sally may be 
considered as a specimen of that playful sprightllness which 
is so much the characteristic of the French female. 

In the centre of another room, dedicated to optics, as 
we entered, we saw a beautiful nosegay in a vase, which 
appeared to be composed of the rarest flowers, I a'[)p|t)ach- 
cd it with an intention of inhaling its fragrance, when, lo ! 
my hand passed through it. It was an exquisite optical 
illusion. " Ah !'* said my elegant and moralising com- 
panion, Madame S , smiling, '* of such flowers has 

Happiness composed her wreath : it is thus she gladdens 
with it the eye of Hope ; but the hand of Expectation can 
never grasp it,** 

The graceful moral deserves a more lasting record than 
it will find in these few and perishable pages. 

In the other rooms are all sorts of apparatus for trying 
experiments in the various branches of that department of 
science, over which Mons. C so ably presides. 

The merit of Mons. C has no rival but in his mo- 
desty. Considering the rank and estimation which he bears 
in the republic, his external appearance is singularly unas- 
suming. I have been with him in the gardens of the 
Thuilleries, when they were thronged with the fashion and 
gaiety of Paris, where he has appeared in a suit of plain 



175 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

ST ROCQUE — HOTEL DES INVALIOLS. 

brown cloth, an old round hat with a little national cockade 
in It, under which he j)resented a countenance full of cha- 
racter, talent and animation. \a this homely puritan garb, 
he excited more respectful curiosity, wherever he moved, 
than some generals who paraded before .us in dresses upon 
which the tailor and embroiderer bad long laboured, and 
who added to their statue by laced hats entirely filled with 
gaudy buoyant plumes* 

From Monsieur Charles we went to the church of Sti 
Rocque, in the Rue St. Honore. As we entered, the effect 
of a fine painting of our Saviour crucified, upon which the 
sun was shining with great glory, placed at the extremity of 
the church, and seen through several lessening arches of 
faint, increasing shade, was very grand. This church has 
been more than once the scene of revolutionary carnage. 
Its elegant front is much disfigured, and the doors are per- 
forated, in a great number of places, by the ball of cannon 
and the shot of musketry. Mass was performing in the 
church ; but we saw only few worshippers, and those wer€ 
chiefly old women and little girls. 

From St. Rocque we proceeded to the Hotel des Inva- 
lides, the chapel and dome of which are so justly celebrated. 
The front is inferior to the military hospital at Chelseaj 
to which it bears some resemblance. The chapel is con- 
verted into the Hall of Victory, in which, with great taste, 
are suspended, under descriptive medallions, the banners of 
the enemies of the republic, which have been taken during 
the late war, the number of which are immense. The 
same decoration adorns the pilasters and gallery of the rastr 
magnificient dome at the end of the hall. 



TI4E STRANGER IN FRANCE. tfj 

enemies' colours 

My eye was naturally occupied, immediately after w<i 
had entered, in searching amongst the most battered of the 
banners, for the British colours : at last I discovered the jack 
and ensign of an English man of war, pierced with shot- 
holes, and blackened with smoke, looking very sulky, and 
indignantly, amongst the finery, and tawdry tatters of 
Italian and Turkish standards. 

In the course of this pursuit, I caught the intelHsjent eye 

of Madame S . She immediately assigned to my search 

the proper motive. "Ah !*' said she, laughingly, and 
patting me on the arm with her fan, *' we are, as you see, 
my dear Englishman, very vain ; and you are very proud. 

A stranger to the late calamitous war, unable to marshal 
in his mind the enemies of the republic, might here, with a 
glance of his eye, whilst contemplating this poor result of 
devastation, enumerate the foes of France, and appreciate 
the facilities or difficulties of the victory. 

In observing, amidst this gaudy show of captive colours, 
only two hard-won banners of their rival enemy, he would 
draw a conclusion too flattering and familiar to an EngHsh 
car, to render it necessary to be recorded here. 

Upon the shattered standards of Austria, he would con- 
fer the meed of merited applause, for heroic, although un- 
prevailing bravery. 

To the banners of Prussia, he would say, " I know not 
" whether principle, or policy, or treachery, or corruption, 
^* deterred you from the field — Your looks exhibit no proofs' 



17S THE STRANGER IN FRANCE* 



enemies' colours. 



«« of sincere resistance— However, you never belonged to 
" cowards,** , 

The Neapolitan ensign, might excite such sentiments as 
these : '' You appear for a short time to have faced the 
*« battle— You were unfortunate, and soon retired.'* 

To the gaudy drapeaus of the Italian and Turkish legions, 
which every where present the appearance of belonging to 
the wardrobe of a pantomimic hero, he would observe, 
<« The scent of the battle has not perfumed you ; its smoke 
*« has not sullied your shining silky sides. Ye appear in 
** numbers, but display no marks of having waved before 
" a brave, united and energetic band.'* 

In this manner might he trace the various fate of the 
war. Upon several of the staffs, only two or three shreds 
of colours are to be seen adhering. These are chiefly Aus- 
trian. On each side of the chapel, are large, and some of 
them valuable paintings, by the French masters, represent- 
ing the conquests of the French armies at different eras. 

It is a matter not unworthy of observation, that although 
the revolution, with a keen and savage eye, explored too 
successfully, almost every vestige of a royal tendency, the 
beautiful pavement under the dome of the Invalides has es- 
caped destruction. The fieur de lis, surmounted by the 
crown of France, still retains its original place, in this ele- 
gant and costly marble flooring. The statues of the saints 
have been removed ; and their places are supplied by the 
new order of revolutionary deities ; but the names of the 
ancient figures have not been erased from the pedestals of 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 179 



STATUES —INDECORUM. 



the new ones : to which omission the spectator is indebted 
for a smile when contemplating the statue of Equality, he 
reads, immediately below his feet, ** St. Louis.''* 

There is here a costly monument erected to the memory 
of the brave marshal Turenne, who was killed by a cannon 
ball in 1675. In my humble opinion, it is too much in 
the false taste of French statuary. A groupe of weeping 
angels surround the recumbent hero, in the attitudes of 
operatic figurantes, in whose faces and forms, the artist has 
attempted, too laboriously and artificially, to delineate the 
expressions of graceful grief. On each side of the vast arch 
which divides the dome from the chapel, are raised the 
tablets of military honor, on which, in characters of gold, 
the names of those soldiers are recorded who have distin- 
o-uished themselves for their achievements in the late war, 

to 

As we were contemplating a painting upon a very large 
scale, in which, amongst other figures, is an uncovered 
whole length of a warrior, a prudish-looking lady, who 
seemed to have touched the age of desperation, after having 
very attentively beheld it with her glass for some time, ob- 
served to her party, that there was a great deal of indecorum 

in the picture. Madame S very shrewdly whispered 

in my ear, that the indecorum was in the remark. 

When we were just leaving the chapel, we overheard a 
sunbrowned soldier, who had lost both his legs, observe to 
his companion, to whom he was explaining the colours, 
pointing to the banners of the Turkish cavalry, the tops of 
whose staffs were surmounted with horses' tails, *' Look at 
those ribbands ; they are not worthy of being worn when. 



ISO THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

THE AGED CAPTAIM. MILITARY SCHOOL. 

won.'* This militri r J hospital is capable of accommoda- 
tin;^ 3000 soldiers. The bedrooms, kitchens, refectory 
and out-offices, are -very capacious, and, what is rather unu- 
sual in France, clean and comfortable. The day before we 
were there, the First Consul paid a visit to its veteran inhab- 
itants. Amongst them, he recognised an old, and very 
brave soldier, whose exploits w^ere the frequent theme of his 
aged comrades. The young general told him that he should 
die a captain, took him in his carriage to dine with him at 
Mai Maison, presented him with a medallion of honour, 
and conferred lipon him the rank of a captain, in one of the 
most distinguished regiments. 

From this place we went to the military school adjoin., 
jno-, in which Bonaparte received the rudiments of that edu^ 
cation which was destined to form the foundation of his fu- 
ture t^lory. The building is large and handsome, and is, 
from a very natural sentiment, in high favour with the First 
Consul. There is nothing in it particular to describe. The 
o-rouuds and gardens are \€:vy spacious and fine. In the 
front of the military school is the celebrated Champ dc 
Mars, which Is an immense flat space of ground. On 
each side are rising terraces of earth, and double rows of 
trees, and at the further end, the river Seine flows. On 
days of great national celebrations, this vast plain is sur- 
rounded with Gobelins* tapestry, statues, and triumphal 
arches. After contemplating these objects of public curi- 
osity, we returned to Mons. S- to dinner, where we 

met a large party of very pleasant people. Amongst them 
I was pleased with meeting a near relative of an able and 
y^right minister of the republic, to whose unwearied labours 



^HE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 181 

GARDEN OF MOUSSEAIJ. 

the world is not a little indebted for the enjoyment of its 
present repose. 

After dinner we drove to the beautiful garden of Mous- 
seau, formerly the property of the Due d' Orleans. It is 
laid out with great taste, and delights the eye with the 
most romantic specimens of improved rural beauty. It was 
originally designed by its detestable owner, for other purpo-^ 
ses than those of affording to a vast and crowded city the 
innocent delights and recreations of retired and tasteful sce- 
nery. Jn the gloom of its groves, all sorts of horrible pro- 
fanations were practised by this monster and his midnight 
crew, at the head of whom was Legendre tlie Butcher. 
Every rank recess of prostitute pollution in Paris, was ran- 
sacked to furnish materials for the celebration of their im- 
pure and impious orgies. The Ode to Atheism, and the 
Song of Blasphemy, were succeeded by the applaudino- 
yells of Drunkenness and Obscenity. 

At the time we visited this garden, it belonged to the 
nation, and was open on certain days, to well-dressed peo- 
ple. A few days afterwards, it was presented as a mark of 
national esteem, to Cambaceres, the Second Consul. 

Here we rambled till the evening. The sun was set- 
ting. The nightingales were singing in great numbers. 
Not a cloud was to be seen. A breeze, blowing through a 
plantation of roses, refreshed us with its coolness and fra- 
grance. In a sequestered part of this beautiful ground, 
under the embowering shades of Acacia trees, upon the 
ruins of a little temple, we seated ourselves, and were rega- 
led by some charming Italian duets, which were sung hj 



1^2 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



TRIBUTE OF ESTEEM TO MAPEMOISELLE D S . 

■ «•" ".1 1 . ■ ■■■: III ; ' ' ■ . •■" ■ ' .... . . I 

Madame S and her lovely daughter, with the most 

enchanting pathos. I hope I shall be pardoned for intro- 
ducing some lines which were written upon our return, by 
an enthusiastic admirer of merit and music. 



TO MADEMOISELLE D. S— . 

In Mousseau's sweet Arcadian dale, 

Fair Deiphine pours the plaintive strain; 

She charms the listening nightingale, 

And seems tlV enchantress of the plain. 

Blest be those lips, to music dear I 

Sweet SougstiessI never may they mov« 

But with such sounds to soothe the ear. 
And melt the yielding heart to love I 

May sorrow never bid them pour 

From the torn heart one suffering sigh. 

But be thy life a fragrant flower, 
Blooming beneath a cioudiess sky. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 18S 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Curious Method of raising IJay^—Lucien Bonaparte* s Hotel, 
-•^Opera, — Consular Box, — Madame Bonapurte^s Box.-— 
Fei/deau Theatre. — Bei/e Vue. — Versailles, — The Palace 
of the Petit Trianon,— -<T he Grounds* 

X HE people of Paris, who keep horses in stables at the 
back of their houses, have a singular mode of keeping their 
hay in the lofts of their dwelling houses. At the top of a 
spacious and elegant hotel, is to be seen a projecting crane la 
the act of raising loads of winter provision for the stable. 
When I first saw this strange process, my surprise would 
scarcely have been increased, had I beheld the horse ascend- 
ing after the hay. 

I must not forget to offer some little description of the 
opera, where, during my stay, through the politeness of 
Madame H , 1 had free access to a private box. 

This spacious and splendid theatre is lighted from above 
by an immense circular lustre of patent lamps. The form 
of this brilliant light is in the antique taste, and it is said to 
have cost two thousand pounds sterling. The cfRict which 
it produces in the body of the theatre, and upon the scenery, 
is admirable. It prevents the sight from being divided, and 
distracted by girandoles. This estabHshment is upon so 
vast a scale, that government, which is the proprietor, is 
always a loser upon balancing the receipts and disburse- 
ments of each night. The stage and its machinery, have 
for many years occupied a great number of the subordinate 
classes of people, who, if not employed in this manner. 
Would in ail probability become burdensome, and unplea<* 



XS4 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE^ 

OPEHA. CONSULAR BOX. 

sant to the government. To this circumstarice is attributed 
the superiority of the machinery and scenery, over every 
other theatre I have seen. In the English theatres, ray eye 
has often been offended at the representations of the inter- 
nal parts of houses, in which not a chair, or table is intro- 
duced, for the purpose of carrying on the ingenious decep- 
tion. Upon the stage of the French opera, every scene has 
its appropriate furniture, and distinctive appendages, which 
are always produced as soon as the scene drops, by nume- 
rous attendants. From this attention to the minute cir- 
c"urastances of the drama, the illusion becomes enchanting. 
The orchestra is very fine, and is composed of ninety emi- 
nent musicians. The corps de ballet consists of between 
eighty and ninety fine dancers, of whom Monsieur Deshayes 
is the principal. His movements are more graceful, his 
agility more surprising, and his step more light, firm, and 
elastic, than tlrose of any dancer whom 1 have ever seen. 
He is very justly considered to be the fiist in Europe. 

The First Consul has a private box here, on one side of 
which, a lofty, hollow, decorative column rises, the flutes 
of which are open, and through which he views unseen the 
audience and performers. The beholder might be almost 
inclined to think that this surprising man had borrowed from 
our immortal bard, his notions of exciting the impression of 
dignity, by a rare and well timed display of his person, 

** Thus did I keep my person fresh and new j 
*• My presence like a robe pontifical, 
" Ne'er seen but wondered at : and so my state 
** Seldom^ but sumptuous shewed, like a feast, 
" And won by rareness such solemnity." 



fUE STRANGER IN FRANCE; 185 

MADAME BONAPARTE'S BOX FEYUEAU THEATRE. 

Madame Bonaparte's box is on the left side of the 
stage, over the door, in which the late hapless Queen 
has frequently displayed her beautiful person to the enrap- 
tured audience. 

The Feydeau theatrfe is very elegant ; and on account of 
its excellent arrangements, good performers, and exquisite 
machinery, is much resorted to, and is in general preferred 
to the fourteen other dramatic spectacles, which, in this dis- 
sipated cityj almost every night present their tribute of plea- 
sure to the gay and delighted parisians. A Frenchman 
once observed to me, that a Sunday in London was horrible, 
on account of their being n6 play-houses open at night ! The 
decorum and good manners, which are even still observed in 
all the French places of public amusement, are very impres- 
sive and ao-reeable. Horse and foot soldiers are stationed 

o 

at the avenues, to keep them clear, to prevent depredation, 
and to quell the first indications of popular commotion. 

I was much gratified by an excursion to Versailles, 
which had been some time planned by the charming family 

of the S 's. We set off early in the morning, in one of 

the government carriages, and after a delightful ride, through 
a very rich and kixuriant country, of about twelve miles, 
the vast and magnificent palace of Versailles, opened upon 
our view, at the end of a street nearly two niiles long, lined 
on each side with noble hotels and gardens. It was on a 
Sunday, the day on which the palaCe is opened to the public. 
On the road we passed several hundreds of persons in Caf- 
riages, cabrioles, or walking ; all with merry faces, iti 



Ig5 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

ST. CLOUD. VERSAILLES. 

showy clothes, and adorned with bouquets, on their route 
to this spot of favourite delight. 

About four miles from Paris we saw Belle Vue, formerlj 
the residence of mesdames ; soon afterwards we passed the 
noble palace and park of St. Cloud, which was preparing 
for the reception of the First Consul. 

At the entrance of the village of St. Cloud, on the left, 
after we had passed the bridge, we saw a very pretty house 
and grounds, belonging to a tanner, who had amassed con- 
siderable wealth by a discovery of tanning leather in twenty- 
four hours, so as to render it fit for the currier. Whether 
he possesses this faculty or not, 1 cannot from my own 
experience say, but I can venture to affirm, that the leather 
of France is very bad. In the village is a very noble 
porcelain manufactory, which unfortunately we had not 
time to inspect. 

Whilst our horses were refreshing themselves with a little 
■water, we were beset by the agents of the different hotels, 
and restaurateurs of Versailles, who presented us with little 
cards, announcing in a very pompous manner, the superiority 
of their employers accommodations. 

The stables of Versailles, to the right and left, are from 
the designs of Mansart, in the form of a crescent, and have 
the appearance of princely residences. Here the late King 
kept in the greatest style, six hundred of the finest horses. 
On the left of the grand gateway, is a military lodge for the 
accommodation of cavalry. It represents in shape, an im- 
mense Turkish marquee. After we had passed the palli- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. I87 

VERSAILLES- 

sades of the first court, we more distinctly saw this amazing 
pile of irregular buildings, which consists of the old castle, 
the new palaces, the houses of the mmisters of state, and 
servants, two opera houses, the chapel, military schools, 
museums, and the manufactory of arms, the whole of 
which are now consolidated, and form one palace. 

The beautiful pavement of black and white marble in the 
court yards, is much defaced, and their fountains are totally 
destroyed. 

The first place we visited was the manufactory of small 
arms ; the resident workmen in which exceed two thousand 
men. Here we saw all the ingenious process of construct- 
ing the musket, pistol, and sabre, of which there are an im- 
mense collection ; and also several carbines, and swords of 
honour, intended as presents from the First Consul to offi- 
cers and soldiers of distinguished merit. 

From the manufactory of small arras, we returned to the 
grand court, and entered a suite of rooms, which contain 
the relics of the former valuable cabinet of curiosities. Sev- 
eral of those which we saw, were worthy of attention. 
From these rooms, we passed to the late King's private 
opera house, which surpasses in magnificence, and costly 
decoration, every thing of the kind 1 ever beheld. The 
facing of the whole of the inside is of carved wood, richly 
gilt. The dome is beautifully painted. Upon the scenery 
of the stage being removed, and temporary columns, and 
galleries raised ; all of which can be effected in twenty-foui* 
hours, that part of the theatre presents a counterpart of the 
other, and the whole forms a most splendid oblong ball- 



I3S THE STRANGER IN FRANCE^ 

VERSAILLES 

room, very deservedly considered to be the finest In Europe ; 
it used to be illuminated by ten thousand wax lights. The 
concert rooms and retiring apartments, are also very beauti^ 
ful. From the opera, we visited the chapel, which Is very 
fine and cosdy, in which there are many large and valua- 
ble paintings. After leaving this deserted place of royal 
worship, we passed through the Halls of Plenty, Venus, 
Mars, Mercury, Apollo, and the Hall of the Billiard, 
Table, finely painted b}'- Houasse, le Brun, Champagne^ 
and other eminent artists, to the grand gallery, which is 
seventy-two yards long, and fourteen broad, and has seven- 
teen lofty windows on one side, which look into the gar- 
dens, and seventeen immense pier glasses on the opposite 
side to correspond. Jn this gallery, the Kings of France were 
accustomed to receive ambassadors and ministers of state. 

We next entered the bedroom of the late Queen, and be- 
held the door, which, on the night of the 6th of October, 
1739, the frantic, and sanguinary mob, headed by the in- 
famous Legendre, burst open, for the purpose of dispatching 
her with daggers, in her bed, on that frightful night which 
preceded the return of the royal family to Paris, under the 
protection of the Marquis de la Fayette, through an enraged 
multitude, which extended itself from Versailles to Paris. 

The miserable Queen saved herself by escaping into an 
adjoining apartment. Her bed was pierced through and 
through with poignards. The door is nailed up, but the 
jnarks of that horrible outrage still remain. In this, and iri 
the adjoining chambers, are some very beautiful and valua- 
We paintings. I must not omit to mention, although the 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 18$ 

VEKSAILLES 

Bentiment which it inspires is not very pleasant, the represent 
tation of the capture of an English frigate, by la Bayonne, 
a French corvette, after a desperate engagement, in which 
victory for once decided in favour of the enemy, who op- 
posed, on this occasion, an inferior force. This is a picture 
of infinite merit, and possesses a novelty of arrangement and 
strength of colouring, which I never saw equalled in any 
other naval representation. The subject seldom admits of 
much variety. The French, of course, are very much 
pleased with it. There are here, also, some curious old 
clocks. 

It was in one of these apartments, that Prior, the cele- 
brated poet, when secretary to the Earl of Portland, who 
was appointed ambassador to the French court, in the year 
I698, made the following memorable answer. 

One of the French King's household was showing the 
bard the royal apartments and curiosities of this palace, and 
particularly pointed out to his notice, the paintings of Je 
Brun, now removed to the museum of the aits, in which 
the victories of Lewis XIV. are described, and asked 
him, whether the actions of King William were to be seen 
in his palace? " No, Sir," rej)lied the loyal wit, "the 
*' monuments of my master's glory are to be- seen every 
*^ where but in his own house,'* 

Through the interest of Monsieur S we were ad- 
mitted into a private room below stairs, in which several 
portraits of the late royal family have been preserved from 
destruction, during the revolution. That which represents 
the Queen and her young f?imily, is very fine, and dis* 



190 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

PALACE OF THE PETIT TRIANON. 

plays all the bewitching beauty and vivacity of that lovely 
and unfortunate personage. Into this room no one was ad- 
mitted with us. Here Is a very curious piece of mechan- 
ism : it is a painting, containing two hundred little figures, 
in the act of enjoying the various pleasures of rural sport, 
which are separated from the hack ground of the picture, 
and are set in motion by springs ; and admirably imftate all 
the movements natural to their different occupations. A 
fisherman throv^rs in his line, and draws up a little fish, a 
regular chase is displayed, and a nuptial procession appears, 
in which little figures, riding in tiny carriages, nod to the 
spectators. There are also many other curious figures. It 
is glazed and framed, and at a distance, when its motion has 
peased, it has the appearance of a tolerably good painting. 
We next quitted the palace, and entered upon the grand 
terrace, from which It makes the finest appearance. 

This enormous pile of building is here united by a cen- 
tre, and corresponding wings, of great extent and magnifi- 
cence. 

From this elevated spot, the beholder contemplates the 
different v/ater-works, walks, and gardens, which cover 

several miles. 

The orangery is a beautiful specimen of Tuscan architec- 
ture, designed by le Maitre, and finished by Mansart, It is 
filled with lofty orange trees in full bearing ; many of 
which, in their tubs, measure from twenty to thirty feet 
high. Amongst them is an orange tree which is upwards 
of four hundred years old. The cascades, fountains, an(J 
jets d*eau, are too numerous to admit of mmute descrip- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 191 

PALACE OF THE PETIT TSIANON. 

tion. They are all very fitie, and are supplied by prodig- 
ious engines across the Seine, at Marli, about three miles 
distant. The Trianon is a little marble palace, of much 
beauty, and embellished with the richest decoration. 

It stands at the end of the great lake, In front of the pa- 
lace ; and was, by its late royal owners, considered as a Sum- 
mer-house to the gardens of Versailles. The whole of this 
vast building and its grounds, were Improved and beautified 
by Lewis XIV. for the well known purpose of impress- 
ing his subjects, and particular!}'- his courtiers, with the 
highest opinion of his greatness, and the lowest of their 
comparative littleness. Amongst the lords of bis court, he 
easily etFscted his wishes, by accommodating them in a 
manner unsuitable to their dignity. 

After being astonished at such a display of gorgeous 
magnificence, I approached, with increased delight, the en- 
chanting little palace and grounds of the late Queen, distant 
from Versailles about two miles, called the Petit Trianon, 
to which she very justly gave the appellation of her ** Little 
Palace of Taste.*' Here, fatigued with the splendours of 
royalty, she threw aside all its appearances, and gave her- 
self up to the elegant pleasures of rural life. It is a prince- 
ly establishment in miniature. It consists of a small pa- 
lace, a chapel, an opera house, out-ofHces and stables, a 
little park, and pleasure grounds ; the latter of which are 
still charming, although the fascinating eye, and tasteful 
hand of their lovely but too volatile mistress, no longer per- 
vade, cherish and direct their growth and beauty. By that 
reverse of fortune, which the revolution has familiarized. 



ipq THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

PALACE OF THE PEIIT TRIANON. 

T —■',,' ■ — ^i'.; ."■■,' ■^- ■ j » 

the Petit Trianon is let out by government to a restaurateur* 
All the rooms but one, in this house, were pre-occupied on 
the day of our visit, in consequence of which we were obli- 
ged to dine in the former little bed-room of the Queen, 
where, like the Idalian goddess, she used to sleep in a sus- 
pended basket of roses. The apertures in the ceiling and 
wainscot, to which the elegant furniture of this little room 
of repose had once adhered, are still visible. 

After dinner we hastened through our cofJ'ee, and pro- 
ceeded to the gardens. After winding through gravelled 
walks, embowered by the most exquisite and costly shrubs, 
tve entered the elegant temple of Cupid, from which the 
Jittle f^ivourite of mankind has been unwillingly and rudely 
expelled, as appeared by the fragments of his pedestal. 

Thy wrongs, little god ! shall be revenged by thy fair 
friend Pity. Those who treated thee thus, shall suffer in 
their turn, and she shall not console them ! 

From this temple we passed through the most romantic 
avenues, to a range of rural buildings, called the Queen*s 
Farm, the dairy, the mill, and the woodmen's cottages ; 
which, during the Queen's residence at the Petit Trianon, 
were occupied by the most elegant and accomplished young 
noblemen of the court. In front of them, a lake, terminated 
on one side by a rustic tower, spreads itself. These build* 
ino-s are much neglected, and are falling into rapid ruin. 

In other times, when neatness and order reigned 
throughout this elysian scenery, and gracefully spread its 
luxuriant beauties at the feet of its former captivating owner/ 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 103 



PALACE OF THE PETIT TRIANON 



upon the mirror of that lake, now filled with reeds and sed- 
ges, in elegant little pleasure boats, the illustrious party was 
accustomed to enjoy the freshness of the evening, to fill the 
surrounding groves with the melody of the song^ which was 
faintly answered by the tender flute, whose musician was 
concealed in that rustic towerj whose graceful base the 
honeysuckle and eglantine no longer encircle, and whose 
windino- access, once decorated with flowers of the richest 
beauty and perfume, is now overgrown with moss, decay- 
ed, and falhng piecemeal to the ground. 

Near the farm, in corresponding pleasure grounds, the 
miller's house particularly impressed us with delight. All 
its characteristics were elegantly observed. A rivulet still 
runs on one side of it, which formerly used to turn a little 
wheel to complete the illusion. The apartments, which 
iuust have been once enchanting, now present nothing but 
gaping beams, broken ceilings, and shattered casements. 
The wainscots of its little cabinets, exhibit only a tablet, 
upon which are rudely penciled, the motley initials, love 
Verses, and memorandums of its various visitors. 

The shade of the ivy, whichj upon all occasions, Seems 
destined to perform the last offices to the departing monu- 
ments of human ingenuity, has here exercised its gloomy 
function. Whilst we were roving about, we were obliged 
to take refuge from a thunder storm, in what appeared to 
us a mere barn ; upon our entering it, we found it to be an 
elegant little ball room, much disfigured, and greened over 
by damp and neglect. In other parts of this petit Paradise 

Aa 



IQ4: THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

SYLVAN BALL ROOM— THE GROUNDS. 

are caves of artificial rock, which have been formed at an 
immense expence, in which were formerly beds of moss, 
and through which clear streams of water glided, Belviderc 
temples, and scattered cottages, each differing from its 
neighbour in character, but all according in taste and 
beauty. The opera house, which stands alone, is a min- 
iature of the splendid one in the palace of Versailles. 

The sylvan ball room, is an oblong square, lined with 
beautiful treillages, surmounted with vases of flowers. 
The top is open. When the Queen gave her balls here, 
the ground was covered by a temporary flooring, and the 
whole was brilliantly lighted. As we passed by the palace, 
we saw, in the Queen's little Library, several persons 
walking. 

Could the enchanting beauty of Austria and the once 
incenced idol of the gay and the gallant, arise from her un- 
timely tomb, and behold her most sacred recesses of delight, 
thus rudely exposed, and converted into scenes of low and 
holiday festivity, the temples which she designed, defaced, 
their statues overthrown, her walks overgrown and enta^ng:- 
led, the clear mirror of the winding lake, upon the placid 
surface of which once shone the reflected form of the Bel- 
videre, and the retreats of elegant taste, covered with the 
reedy greenness of the standing pool, and all thz fairj/ fabric 
of her graceful fancy, thus dissolving in decay ; the devoted 
hapless Marie would add another sigh to the many which 
her aching heart has already heaved ! 

It would be a very desirable thing, if Bonaparte would 
make this his country palace instead of St. Cloud, Up6ii 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 195 

GtNEUAL MARESCOT FKENCH POUTtNESS. 

our return, as we approached Paris, the illuminated bridges 
of the Seine looked very beautiful, and we were much 
pleased with some fire- works, which had a singular effect 
upon the water. 

In the evenins: we had some music at Monsieur S— — 's, 
where we were joined by General Marescot, a brave and 
distinguished officer, much esteemed by Bonaparte. He 
informed us, that he was on the point of setting out to view 
and report the condition of all the maritime fortifications 
in the republic *' You must go with me as my aide-de- 
camp," said the General to Mademoiselle Delphine, ** I 
*' am not fierce enough for a soldier,'* replied the fair one, 
*' with a bewitching smile, ** Well then,*' observed the 
" sun-browned General, " should the war ever be renewed, 
** you shall attend me to charm away its calamities,'* 

Madame S , like a true French mother, was delight- 
ed with the little compliment, and presenting her snufF box 
to the gallant Marescot, she said, "thank you, my dear 
** General, the brave always think generously of the fair," 



19(3 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE-. 



CHAPTER XVm. 

Bonaparte'* s Talents in Finance.-— Garrick and the Madman ^ 
--^Palace of the Conservative Senate. — Process of transfer- 
ring; Oil Paintings from Wood to Canvas.- — The Dinner 
Knife. — Commodif.es. — Hall of the National Convention,'-—' 
The Minister Tallet/rand^ s Levee, 

A. HE First Consul is said to add to his other extraordi- 
nary powers, an acute and comprehensive knowledge of 

finance. Monsieur S informed me, that whenever 

he waited upon him in his official capacity, with the na-» 
tional accounts, he displayed an acquaintance with the most 
complicated statements, which seemed intuitive. 

He exhibits the same talents in philosophy, and in mat- 
ters wiiich are foreign to those vast objects of public employ, 
which have raised him to his present height of glory, and 
which in general preclude the subordinate enjoyment of 
elegant study. 

Those acquirements, which providence in its wisdom 
has thinly scattered amongst mankind, and which seldom 
rij)en to full maturity, although cherished by the most pro- 
pitious advantages, and b}'- the unreposing labours of a 
long and blissful existence, spread their rich abundance, in 
the May morning of life, before this extraordinary being, 
who, in the commencement of that very revolution, upoa 
the ruins of which he has stepped to supreme authority, was 
a beardless stripling. 

From the great performers upon the public stage of life, 
@ur conversation, one evening, at Madame S ~'s, by a 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 197 

GARIUCK AND THE MADMAN. 

natural transition, embraced a review of the wonderful ta- 
lents, which have at various times adorned the lesser drama 
of the theatre. Madame S made some judicious re- 
marks upon the French players of distinction, to all of 
•whom she imputed a manner and enunciation, which havq 
been imbibed in a school, in which nature has not been 
permitted to preside. Their tragedy, she said, was inflated 
with too much pomp, and their elegant comedy suffered by 
too volatile an airiness. She bestowed upon our immortal 
Garrick, the most decided preference and superiority, to 
any actor whom she hud ever seen. The opportunity 
which she had of judging of his powers, was short and 
singular, but fully enabled her to form a decisive opinion. 
When Garrick visited Paris for the last time, she was just 
married. This celebrated actor had letters of introduction 

to Monsieur S , At a large party, which Monsieur 

S — — formed for the purpose of doing honour to his dis- 
tinguished visitor, he exhibited several specimens of his un- 
rivalled talents. Amongst others, he represented, in dumb 
show, by the wonderful powers of his -expressive counte- 
nance, the feelings of a father, who, in looking over a lofty 
balcony, with his only child in his arms, by accident drop- 
ped it. The disaster drove the unhappy parent mad. 
Garrick had visited him in his cell ; where the miserable 
maniac was accustomed, several times in the course of the 
day, to exhibit all those looks and attitudes which he had 
displayed at the balcony.* On a sudden he would bend 



* The cause which induced Garrick to visit this unhappy person, 
was, it is said, to render the representation of his King Lear more 
perfect. 



X98 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



GARRICK AND THE MADMAN — ENGLISH DRAMA. 



himself forward, as if looking from a -window into the 
street, with his arms folded as if they embraced a child, 
then he would stait back, and appear as if he had lost 
something, search the room round and round, run again 
forward, as to the railing of a window, look down, and 
beat his forehead, as if he had beheld his infant, bleeding 
and breathless upon the pavement. Garrlck*s imitation 
was exquisite. The feelings of his beholders were wrought 
up to horror. The tears, and consternation of a gay- 
fashionable French party, were applauses more flattering 
to the British Roscius, than the thunder of that acclamation, 
■which, in the crowded theatre, followed the flash of his fiery 
eye, or the close of his appalling speech. 

The English drama, however, has not escaped the ani- 
madversions of a French critic, whose taste and liberahty 
are not very congenial with those of my charming and gen- 
erous friend. ** Their tragedies," he says, (speaking of the 
English) ** it is true, though mteresting, and replete whh 
beauties, are nevertheless dramatic monsters, half butchery, 
" and half /(2rce. Grotesque characters, and extravagant 
** pleasantry constitute the chief part of their comedies. In 
^* one of them, (not named) the devil enters sneezing, and 
'* somebody says to the devil, God bless you. They are 
" not, however, all of this stamp. They have even some 
" in very good taste.'* 



Yes, Monsieur Dourx, I agree with jt^ou, I think we 
have son?e in very good taste. I know not in what dra- 
matic work the facetious Frenchman has discovered the in- 
troduction of his Satanic majesty under the influence of a 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 190 

THE BASTILLE. 

cold, and receiving, as he enters, the usual deprecation on 
such occasions. I rather suspect that the adventures of 
Punch, and his fickle lady, who are always attended by a 
dancing demon, have afforded the materials for this sapient 
observation. 

In the course of one of ray morning rambles in Paris, 
I visited the ruins of the celebrated Bastille, of which pri- 
son, only the arsenal, some fragments of its massy walls, 
and two or three dungeons remain. The volcanic ven- 
geance of the people, has swept away this mighty fabric, 
which the revolting mind of republican liberty denounced 
as the frightful den of despotism, upon the approach to 
•which, no marks of returning footsteps were imprinted, 
whilst, in her mad career, she converted every private dwell- 
ing in the metropolis into a revolutionary prison : So 
much for popular consistency ! 

In the mutations of time, to what different purposes are 
the same places applied ; Where the consuming martyr 
expired*, the un wieldly prize hog is exposed to sale ; and 
the modern Parisian derives the sources of warmth and com- 
fort, from a place, the very name of which, once chilled the 
circulation of his blood. The site of the Bastille is now a 
magazine of wood, which supplies the city with fuel. 

Every lover of pure liberty must leap with delight upon 
the disencumbered earth, where once stood that gloomy abode 
of " broken hearts," and reflect upon the sufferings of the 
wretched Latude, and the various victims of capricioup 

* Smithfield. 



goo THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



THE BASTILLE 

pique, or prostitute resentment. It was here, that, in the 
beautiful lines of Cowper, the hopeless prisoner wa« 
doomed 

** To fly for refuge from distracting thought 

<* To such amusements as ini^enious woe 

<* Contrives, hard shifting, and without her tools— —= 

" To read, engraven on the mouldy walls, 

<' In staggering types, his predecessor's tale, 

*< A sad memorial, and subjoin his own ■ 

** To turn purveyor to an overgorg'd 

" And bloated spider, till the pamperM pest 

** Is made familiar, watches his approach, 

*' Comes" at his call, and serves him for a friend—" 

The cells of the Bastille were constantly filled, during 
the syren reign of la Pompadour over the gloomy affections 
of Lewis the XVth. 

, The overthrow of this dungeon has not rendered state 
prisons out of fashion in the republic, although it has miti- 
gated the severity of their internal government. The tow- 
ers of the Te.nplc look down upon the prostrate ruins of* 
the Bastille. 

From this memorable spot of ground, I went to the 
Observatory. In the rooms, which open upon an artificial 
terrace, were some prodigious astronomical apparatus. A 
very ingenious frame was then constructing, for elevating 
or depressing the astronomer and the telescope, at the same 
time, by an easy and simple process of machinery. The: 
Observatory is a noble building, and contains librarieSj 
students* rooms, and apartments for the various artificers 
and machinists, who are occupied in fabricating the appa« 



I'HE STRAKGEft IN FHANCfi. g()i 

PALACE OF THE CONSERVATIVE SENATE. 

ratus, and instruments necessary to the science of astronomy. 
From the exterior of the dome, there is a fine view of the 
city, suburbs, and country. 

From the Observatory, I visited the Conservative Senate, 
formerly the palace of Luxembourg. The back of this 
beautiful buildmg is in the Rue de Vaugirand, in the Faux- 
bourg of St. Germains, The gardens of this noble pile, 
are receiving great improvement and alteration, from de- 
signs which have been approved of by the First Consul, 
who, in his wise policy, intends that they shall, in time, 
Hval those of the Thuilleries, for the purpose of affording 
an elegant and fashionable promenade to the people who 
reside in this part of the capital, who are considerably re- 
moved from the beautiful walks which adorn the Consular 
palace. Here I saw the Hall of Deliberation, in which 
the Conservative Senate assembles. It is nothing more thaii 
a large, handsome drawing-room, in which are placed, 
iipon rising platforms, sixty arm chairs, for as many 
Ijiembers, the chair of the president, and the tribune. This 
magnificent palace is repairing^ and fitting up for the resi- 
dence and accommodation of its members. 1 was intro- 
duced to the artist who has the care of the gallery here, 
and who, with his assistants, was very busily occupied in a 
process for removing the oil colours of a painting from 
wood, and transferring them to canvas. He received me 
with great poUteness, and explained to me the mode of 
doing it, in which there appeared to be more toil, nicety^ 
and steadiness required, than ingenuity. 



The painting is laid upon a cloth stretched upon a mar- 
tjflc slab, and the wood behind is shaved off until nothing 



^02 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

TRANSFERRING OIL PAINTINGS FROM WOOD TO CANVAS 

but the picture, like a flat cake, or rather a sheet of gold- 
beater's skin, remains ; a piece of canvas, coated with a 
cement, is then placed upon it, to which it adheres, and 
presents all the appearance of having been originally painted 
upo 1 it. The pict'ires from the subject of St. Bruno, were 
then undergoing this operation. 

The apartments in which these people were at work, 
presented very convincing indications of the mutability of 
human ambition* 

This palace was allotted to the celebrated Council of 
Five Hundred. During their ephemeral reign, these very- 
rooms were designed for their halls of audience and levees, 
the rich mouldings and cornices of which were half gilt, 
and covered with silver paper to preserve them : the poor 
Council were never indulged in a house warming. 

The pictures, which were collected by Henry IV, and 
deposited in the gallery there, which bears his name, are: 
said to be valuable. I did not see them, on account of 
their havins: been removed into store rooms during the re-* 
pairs of the palace. 

It was late when I left the Luxeraibourg, and soniewhat 
exhausted for want of refreshment, I determined upon dining 
at the first restaurateur's which 1 could meet with, instead 
of going to the gardens of the Thuilleries. To find such an 
accommodation in Paris, is no difficult thins:. A strano-er 
would naturally suppose, from the frequency with which the 
■words cafFe, limonade, and restaurateur, present themselves 
to the eye, that three parts of the inhabitants had turned 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 003 

THE DINNER KNIFE 

tlieir talents to the valuable study of relieving the cravings 
of an empty stomach. 

I had not moved three yards down the Rue de Tournon, 
before, on my left, I sav*'- the welcome board, which, in 
large golden characters, announced the very best entertain- 
ment within. At this moment, the celebrated picture of 
the banquet of the Louvre, could scarcely have afforded me 
more delight. I had an excellent dinner, wine and fruit, 
for four livres. In the course of my repast, I begged that 
a knife, might be permitted to aid the services of a three 
pronged silver fork, which graced my plate on the left. 
After rather a laborious search, my wishes were gratified by 
an instrument, which certainly was entitled to the name of 
one, but was assuredly not the handsomest of its species. 
Whether there had been any dispute between the handle 
and the blade, 1 know not, but there were very evident 
appearances of an approaching separation. Not wishing to 
augment the rupture between two personages so necessary 
to each others service, and to those who were to be bene- 
fitted by it, 1 begged of my fair hostess, who, with two 
pretty girls (her daughters,) were picking the stalks from 
some strawberries, which were intended for my dessert, at 
the other end of the room, that she would favour me with 
another knife. The maitresse d'hotel, who had a pair of 
fine dark expressive eyes, very archly said, " Why would 
*' you change it, Sir ? it is an English one." It certainly 
looked like one ; no compliment could be neater. Wheth- 
er I gave it too great a latitude of interpretation, I will not 
pretend to say, but it led me into such a train of happy 
comparative thinking, that I ate my dinner with it v^ry 



^04 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



THE DINNER KNIFE. COMMODITES. 



comfortably, without saying another word. 1 have since 
thought, that the niaitresse d'hotel had not another knife in 
her house, but what was in use. 

In France, I have before had occasion to remark, that 
fanciful notions of excessive delicacy, are not permitted to 
interfere with comfort and convenience. Amongst these 
people, every thing turns upon the principle of accommo- 
dation. To this motive I attribute the frequent exhibition, 
over the doors of respectable looking houses, in the fashion- 
able walks, and in different parts of Paris, of the following 
chafacters, ** Coramodites pour Hommes et Femmes.** 
An English prude would start to read these words. I 
mention this circumstance, for the purpose of communica- 
ting some idea of the people, convinced, as 1 well am, that 
it is only by detail, that we can become acquainted with 
the peculiar characteristics of any community. 

I very often passed by the ci-devant Hall of the Na-* 
tional Convention ; in which the hapless King and Queen 
were doomed to the scaffold, where murder was legitimated, 
leligion denounced, and the grave declared to be the bed of 
eternal repose. 

In vindication of the ways of eternal justice, even 
upon earth, this polluted pile is participating the fate of its 
devoted members. 

Those walls which once resounded with the florid high 
toned declamation of republican visionaries, the most worth- 
less, imposing, and desperate of mankind, are prevented, 
for a short timej by a few crazy props, from covering the 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 205 

HALL OF THE NATIONAL CONVENTION. 

earth below with their dust and ruins. The famed temple 
of the Goddess of Liberty, is not tenantable enough to cover 
the Babel Deity from the peltings of the midnight storm. 

Where is now the enthusiastic Gironde, where the vol- 
canic mountain, the fiery and eloquent Mirabeau, the wily 
Brissot, the atheistic Lequinios, the remorseless Marat, the 
bloody St. Just, and the Chief of the deplumed and fallen 
legions of equality ? All is desolate and silent. The gaping 
planks -of the guillotine are imbued with their last traces ; 
the haunt of the banditti is uncovered. The revolution 
has preyed upon her own children, and metaphysical 
murderers have perished by the daggers of speculative 
republicans. 

About two years since, this place was converted into a 
menagerie. The cave and the wilderness, the desart and 
the jungle, presented to the eye of the beholder, representa- 
tive successors of those savages, who, with more powers 
and more ferocity, were once enclosed within the same den. 
From the remembrance of such miscreants, I turn, with 
increased satisfaction, to the traces of approaching civiliza- 
tion which mark the career of the present government, in 
which the want of suitable splendor no longer repels the ap- 
proach and friendship of those nations which once shudder- 
ed at the idea of coming into contact with the infected rags 
of visionary fraternity. Some indications of this change I 
saw pourtrayed at the levee of M. Talleyrand, the minister of 
foreign relations, when I had the honour of being presented 
to that able and celebrated politician, by Mr. B. The hotel 
of Talleyrand is very superb. We entered the court yard 
through tv/o lines of about twenty carriages in waiting. 



20(3 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE". 

THE MINISTER TALLEYRAND'S LEVEE. 

Under the portico, were several Turks seated, who formed 
a part of the suite of the Turkish ambassador, who had just 
arrived, and was then closetted with Monsieur Talleyrand. 

We passed through several noble apartments, preceded 
by servants, to a magnificent levee room, in which we met 
most of the foreign ambassadors, who were then at the con- 
sular court. 

After waiting some time, the folding doors of the cabi- 
net opened, the Turkish embassy canje out, making their 
grand salams, followed by Talleyrand, in his rich costume 
of embroidered scarlet, his h^ir f^ll dressed, and a shining 
sabre by his side. 

In his person, he is small and tbln, his face is *' pale 
and penetrating." He always looks obhquely ; his small 
quick eyes and features, very legibly express mildness, 
wit, and subtillty. His right leg appears contracted. His 
address is insinuating. As the spirit of aggrg.ndiz:ement, 
which is said to have actuated the public and private con- 
duct of Monsieur Talleyrand, has been so much talked of, 
it may, perhaps, excite some surprise, when it is mentioned, 
that several persons who know him well, some of whom 
esteem him, and v/iih some of whom he is not a favourite, 
declare, notwithstanding the anecdotes related of X Y, and 
Monsieur Beai^coup d' Argent, in the American prints, that 
they consider him to be a man, whose mind is raised above 
the influence of corruption. Monsieur Talleyrand may be 
classed amongst the rarest curiosities in the revolutionary 
cabinet. Allied by an illustrious ancestry to the Bourbons, 
and a royalist from his birth, he was, with unusual celerity 5, 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE* OQT 

THE MINISTER TALLEYRAND'S LEVEE 

invested with the episcopal robe and crosier.* During the 
temporary triumph of the abstract rights of man, over the 
practicable rights of reason, he moved with the boisterous 
cavalcade, with more caution than enthusiasm. Upon the 
celebrated national recogrnition of the sovereicrntv of man's 
teill, in the Champ de Mars, the politic minister, adorned 
in snowy robes, and tri-colour ribbands, presided at the altar 
of the rupubllc as its high priest, and bestowed his patri- 
archal benedictions upon the standard of France, and the 
banners of her departments. 

Some time afterwards, in the shape of a secret unac- 
credited negotiator, he was discovered in the metropolis of* 
England, and immediately transferred, upon the spread 
wings of the alien bill, to his own shores. Since that 
period, after having dis-sociated and neutralized the most 
formidable foes of his country, by the subtle stratagems of 
his consummate diplomacy, we beheld him as the successor 
of la Croix, armed with the powers, and clodied in the 
gaudy costume of the minister of foreign relations. In the 
polished Babtl of the anti-chamber of this extraordinary man^ 
I have beheld the starred and glittering representatives of 
the most distinguished princes of the earth, waiting for 
hours, with exemplary resignation, contemplating them- 
selves in all their positions, in his reduplicating mirrors, or 
examining the splendor and exquisite ingenuity of his time-^ 
pieces, until the silver sound of his little bell, announced^ 
that the invoked and lagging moment of ministerial leisure 
was arrived, 

* Monsieur Talleyrand is ex-bishop of Autim^ 



^08 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



THE MINISTER TALLEYRAND S LEVEE. 



It is certain, that few people possess the valuable quali^ 
ties of imperturbable calmness and self-possession, more' 
than Monsieur Talleyrand. Ballanced by these amiable 
and valuable qualities, he has been enabled to ride the 
political whirlwind, and in the diplomatic cabinet, to coI=» 
lect some advantage from the prejudices or passions of all 
who approached him. The caution and cunning of Talley- 
rand have succeeded, where the sword and impetuous spirit 
of Bonaparte would have been unavailing. The splendor 
of his apartments, and of many of the personages present, 
displayed a very court-like appearance, and inclined a stran- 
ger, like myself, to think, that nothing of the old govern- 
ment was missing, but the expatriated family of France* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 20t) 



CHAPTER XIX. 

The College of the Dtaf and Dumb, — Ahte Sicard. — Baga^ 
telle. — Pulire. — Grand Na/ional Library. — Bonaparte^s 
Review. — Tambour Major uf the Consular Regiment^^-^ 
Restoraiiun of Artillery Colours, 

JL Had long anticipated the delight which T expected to 
derive from the interesting public lecture of the Abbe Sicard, 
and the examination of his pupils. This amiable and en- 
lightened man presides over an institution which endears 
his name to humanity, and confers unfading honour upon 
the nation which cherisiies it by its protection and munifi- 
cence. My reader will immediately conclude that 1 allude 
to the College of the Deaf and Dumb. By the genius and 
perseverence of the late Abbe Charles Michael de I'Epee, 
and his present amiable successor, a race of fellow beings, 
denied by a privation of hearing, of the powers of utterance, 
insulated in the midst of multitudes bearing their own 
image, and cut off from the participtition, within sight of 
all the endearing intercourses of social life, are restored, as 
it were, to the blessings of complete existence. The glori- 
ous labours of these philanthropists, in no very distant ages, 
would have conferred upon them, the reputation and 
honour of beings invested with super-human influence. 
By making those faculties which are bestowed, auxiliary 
to those which are denied, the deaf are taught to hear, and 
the dumb to speak. A silent representative language, in 
which the eye officiates for the ear, and communicates the 
charms of science, and the delights of common intercourse 

Cc 



tlO THE STRANGER iN FRANCE* 

THE COLLEGE OF THE DEAF AND DUMB- 

to the mind, with the velocity, facility, and certainty of 
Sound, has been presented to these imperfect children of 
"nature. The plan of the Abbe, I believe, is before th« 
world. It cannot be expected, in a fugitive sketch like the 
present, to attempt an elaborate detail of it. Some little 
idea of its rudiments may, perhaps, be imparted, by a plain 
description of what passed on the examination day, when I 
had the happiness of being present. 

On the morning of the exhibition, the streets leading to 
the College were lined vir'ith carriages, for humanity has 
here made a convert of fashion, and directed her wavering 
Inind to objects from which she cannot retire, without am-* 
pie and consoling gratification* Upon the lawn, in front 
of the College, were groups of the pupils, enjoying those" 
sports and exercises which are followed by other children^ 
to whom Providence has been more bountiful. Some of 
their recreations required calculation, and I observed th^t 
their intercourse with each other appeared to be easy, swift, 
and intelligible. They made some convulsive movements! 
with their mouths^ in the course of their communication, 
which, at first, had rather an unpleasant effect. 

In the cloister I addressed myself to a genteel looking 
youth, who did not appear to belong to the College, and 
requested him to shew me the way to the theatre in which the 
lecture was to be delivered. I found he took no notice of me. 
One of the assistants of the A bb^, who was standing near 
me, informed me, he was deaf and dumb, and made two or 
three signs, too swift for me to discriminate ; the silent 
^outh bov/ed, took me by the hand, led me into the thea«* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. QH 



9 

THE COLLEGE OF THE DEAF AND DUMB. 



tre, and, with the greatest politeness, procured me an ex- 
cellent seat. The room was very crowded, and in the 
course of a quarter of an hour after I had entered, every 
avenue leading to it was completely filled with genteel com- 
pany. The benches of the auditors of the lecture, display- 
ed great beauty and fashion ; a stage, or tribune, appeared 
in front, behind was a large inclmed slate, in a Irame, 
about eight feet high, by six broad. On each side of the 
stage the scholars were placed, and behind the spectators 
was a fine bust of the founder of the institution, the admi- 
rable de I'Epee. 

The Abbe Sicard mounted the tribune, and delivered his 
lecture with very pleasing address, in the course of which He 
frequently excited great applause. The subject of it was an 
analysis of the language of the deaf and dumb, interspersed 
with several curious experiments upon, and anecdotes of 
his pupils. The examination of the scholars next followed. 
The communication which has been opened to them in 
this singular manner, is by the philosophi/ of grammar » 

The denotation of the tenses was effected by appropriate 
Bigns. The hand thrown over the shoulder, expressed the 
past, when extended, like the attitude of inviting, it deno- 
ted the future, and the finger inverted upon the breast, in- 
dicated the present tense. A single sign communicated a 
word, and frequendy a sentence. A singular instance of 
the first occurred. A gentleman amongst the spectators, 
who appeared to be acquainted with the art of the Abbe, 
was requested to make a sign to the pupil then under ex- 
amination I the moment it was made, the scholar chalked 



gig THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



THE COLLEGE OF THE UEAF AND DUMJ 



upon the slate, in a fine swift flowing hand, '* une homme." 
The pupil erred ; the gentleman renewed the sign ; when 
he immediately wrote, " une personne,** to the astonish- 
ment of every person present. This circumstance is a 
strong instance of tne powers of discrimination, of which 
this curious commimication is susceptible. 

Some of the spectators requested the Abbe to describe, 
by signs, several sentences which they repeated from memo- 
ry, or read from authors, Vv^hich were immediatelj'^ under- 
stood by the pupils, aud penciled upon the slate. 

The lecture and examination lasted about three hours. 
Upon the close of this interesting exhibition, a silent sym- 
pathy reigned throughout the spectatojs. Every face 
Learned with satisfaction. A tear was seen tiembling in 
the eyes of many present. 7\fter a momentaiy pause, the 
hall rang with acclamations. Elegant women pressed for- 
ward in the crowd, to present some little token of their 
delighted feelings to the children protected by this institu- 
tion. It was a spectacle, in which genius was observed 
assisting humanity, and nature in a suffusion of gratitude, 
weeping over the hallowed and propitious endeavours of 
the good, the generous, and the enlightened. Well might 
the elegant and eloquent Kotzebue select from such a spot, 
a subject for his pathetic pen, and give to the British Ros- 
cius of the present day,* the power of enriching its drama, 
by a fresh display of his unrivalled abilities. 

* Mr Kemble brought out the pathetic plav of Deaf and Dumb, 
in which he sustains the character of ihe Abbe de I'Epee with ad- 
mirable effect. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 213 

THE COLLEGE OF THE DEAF AMD DUMB. 

The exhibition of the Deaf and Dumb will never be 
eradicated from my mind. 

The tears which were shed on that day, seemed al- 
most sufficient to wipe away the recollection of those times, 
in which misery experienced no mitigation ; Mhen every 
pne, trembling for himself, had no unabsorbed sensation 
of consohng pity to bestow upon the unfortunate. Those 
times are gone — JMay their absence be eternal I 

This institution is made serviceable to the state. A 
pupil of the College is one of the chief clerks of the Na- 
tional Lottery office, in which he distinguishes himself by 
his talents, his calculation, and upright deportment. 

Whilst the subject is before me, I beg leave to mention 
a curious circumstance which was related bv a very inge- 
nious and honourable man, in a party where I happened to 
be present, to prove the truth and agreement of nature, ia 
her association of ideas. A blind man w^as asked by him, 
to what sound he resembled the sensation produced by 
touching a piece of red cloth, he immediately replied, to the 
sound of a trumpet. A pupil of the College of the Deaf 
and Dumb, who could faintly hear a loud noise, if applied 
close to his ear, was asked, to what colour he could com- 
pare the sound of a trumpet, he said, it always excited in 
his mind, the remembrance of scarlet cloth.* Two pupils, 
male and female, of the same college, who had been placed 
near a cannon, when discharged, without being susceptible 

* The first experiment is well known. It is also noticed in 
Locke upon the Human Understanding. 



@14 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



THE COLLEGE OF THE DEAF AND DUMl 



of the sound j were one day taken by their humane tutor, 
into a room where the harmomca was playing ; a musical 
instrument, which is said to have a powerful influence over 
the nerves. He asked them by signs, if they felt any sen- 
sation. They replied in the negative. He then placed the 
hand of the girl upon the instrument, whilst it was playing, 
and repeated the question ; she answered, that she felt a new 
pleasure enter the ends of her fingers, pass up her arms, and 
penetrate her heart. 

The same experiment was tried upon her companion, 
who seemed to be sensible of similar sensations of delight, 
fcut less acutely felt. 

The emotions of sympathy, are, perhaps, more forcibly 
excited by music than by any other cause. An illustrious 
example of its effect is introduced into Boerhaave*s academ- 
ical lectures on the diseases of the nerves, published by Van 
Eems. Theodosius the Great, by levying an excessive trib- 
lite, inflamed the minds of the people of Antioch against 
him, who prostrated his statues, and slew his ambassadors. 

Upon coolly reflecting on wTiat they had done, and re- 
membering the stern and ruthless nature of their sovereign, 
they sent deputies to implore his clemency and forgiveness. 
The tyrant received them, without making any reply. His 
Tchief minister, lamenting the condition of these unhappy 
people, resolved upon an expedient to move the soul of his 
©ffended prince to mercy. He accordingly instructed the 
youths whose office it was to entertain the Emperor with 
music tiuring dinner, to perform an affecting and pathetic 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ^15 



THE COLLEGE OF THE DEAF AND DUMB BAGATELLE. 



Jpiece of music, composed for the purpose. The plaintive 
sounds soon began to operate. The Emperor, unconscious 
of the cause, bedewed his cup with tears, and when the 
singers artfully proceeded to describe the suiFerings of the 
people of Antioch, their imperial master could no longer 
contain himself, but, moved by their pathos, although r.n- 
accustomed to forgive, revoked his vengeance, and restored 
the terrified offenders to his royal favour, 

Madame E , who is considered the first dilettante 

iriistress of music in Paris, related to me, an experiment 
which she once tried upon a young woman who was total- 
ly deaf and dumb. Madame E — r— fastened a silk thread 
about her mouth, and rested the other end upon her piano 
forte, upon which she played a pathetic air. Her visitor 
soon appeared much affected, and at length burst into tears. 
When she recovered, she wrote down upon a piece of 
paper, that she had experienced a delight, which she could 
not express, and that it had forced her to weep. 

I must reluctantly retire from this pleasing subject, by 
wishing that the Abbe may long enjoy a series of blissful 
y€ars, and that his noble endeavours, '* manifesting the 
** enlightened times in which we live," may meet with 
that philanthropic success, which, to his generous mind, will 
be its most desired reward here ; assured, as he is, of being 
crowned with those unfading remunerations which are pro- 
mised to the good hereafler, 

I one day dined at Bagatelle, which is about four miles 
jfrom Paris, in the Bois du Bolognc, the parisian Hyde 



g|(5 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE; 

a- 

BAGATELLE. 

Park, in which the fashionable equestrian, upon his Nor- 
man bunter, 

" with heel insidiously aside. 

Provokes the cafiter which he seeins to chide." 

The duellist also, in the covert windings of this Vast 
wood, seeks reparation for the trifling/wrong, and bleeds 
hi^nself, or slaughters his antagonist. Bagatelle was for- 
merly the elegant little palace of the Count d'Artois. The 
gardens and grounds belonging to it, are beautifully dis- 
posed. What a contrast to the gloomy shades of Holy- 
rood House, in which the royal fugitive, and his wretched 
followersj have found an asylum ! 

The building and gardens are in the taste of the Petit 
Trianon, but inferior to it. As usual, it is the residence of 
cooks and sculhons, tenants of the government, who treat 
their visitors with good dinners, and excellent wine, and 
take good care to make them pay handsomely for their 
faultless fare. 

Returning to my hotel rather late at night, I passed 
through the Champs Elisees, which, at this hour, seemed to 
be in all its glory. Every *' alley green," was filled with 
whispering lovers. On all sides the sounds of festivity, of 
music, and dancing, regaled the ear. The weather was 
very sultry, and being a little fatigued with rather a long 
walk, I entered through a trellis palisade into a capacious? 
pavilion, where I refreshed myself with lemonade. 

Here 1 found a larore bourgeois party enjoying them- 
selves, after the labours of the day, with the waltz, and 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 21? 

FRENCH POLICE— GRAND NATIONAL LIBRARY 

their favourite beverage, lemonade. A stranger is always 
surprised at beholding the grace and activity, which even 
the lowest orders of people in France, display in dancing* 
Whiskered corporals, in thick dirty boots, and young 
tradesmen, in long great coats, led off their respective 
femmes de chumbre and grisettes, with an elegance, which 
is not to be surpassed in the jewelled birth-night ball-room. 
Nothing could exceed the sprightly carelessness, and gay 
indifference, which reigned throughout. The music in 
this place, as in every other of a similar description, was 
excellent. 

The French police, notwithstanding the invidious ru- 
mours which have been circulated to its prejudice, is the con* 
stant subject of admiration with every candid foreigner, who 
is enabled, under the shelter of its protection, to perambulate 
in safety every part of Paris and its suburbs, although badly 
lighted, at that hour of the night, which in England, seldom 
fails to expose the unwary wanderer to the pistol of the 
prowling ruffian. An enlightened friend of mine, very 
shrewdly observed, that the English police seems to direct 
its powers and consideration, more to the apprehension of 
the robber, than to the prevention of the robbery. Jn no 
country is the art of thief catching carried higher than in 
England. In France, the police is in the highest state o£ 
respectability, and unites force to vigilance. The depreda- 
tor who is fortunate enough to escape the former, is seldom 
able to elude the latter. 

The grand National Library of Paris, is highly deserving 
of a visit, and is considered to be the first of its kind in Eu- 

D d 



giS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

Bonaparte's review. 

rope. In one of the rooms is a museum of antiques. The 
whole is about to be removed to the old palace. In one of 
the wings of this noble collection, are the two celebrated 
great globes, which rest upon the ground, and rise through 
the flooring of the first story, where there is a railing round 
them. These globes, I should suppose, io be about eighteen 
feet high. 

From the Grand National Library, I went with a party 
to the military review of all the regiments in Paris and its 
suburbs, by the First Consul, in the Place de Carousel, within 
the gates and railing which he has raised for this purpose. 
We were introduced into the apartments of General Duroc, 
the governor of the palace, which were upon the ground 
floor of the Thuilleries, and which afforded us an uninter^ 
Tupted view of the whole of this suberb military spectacle. 
A little before twelve o'clock, all the regiments of horse 
and foot, amounting to about 7000 men, had formed the 
line, when the consular regiment entered, preceded by their 
fine band, and the tambour major, who was dressed in great 
magnificence. This man is reinarked in Paris for his sym- 
metry and manly beauty. The cream-coloured charger of 
Bonaparte, upon which, " labouring for destiny, he has 
*' often made dreadful way in the field of battle," next pass- 
ed us, led by grooms, in splendid liveries of green and gold, 
to the grand entrance. As the clock struck twelve, the 
First Consul, surrounded by a chosen body of the consular 
guard, appeared and mounted. He immediately rode off 
in full speed, to the gate nearest to the gallery of the Louvre, 
followed by his favourite Generals, superbly attired, mount- 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 219 



BONAPARTE 



ed upon chargers very richly caparisoned. ]My eye, aided 
by a good opera-glass, was fixed upon the first Consul. I 
beheld before me, a man whose renown is sounded through 
the remotest regions of the earth, and whose exploits have 
been united by the worshippers of favoured heroism to the 
conqueror of Darius. His features are small and meagre. 
His countenance is melancholy, cold and desperate. His 
nose is aquiline. His eyes are dark, fiery, and full of genius. 
His hair, which he wears cropped and without powder, is 
black. His figure is small, but very muscular. He wore 
a blue coat, with broad white facings, and golden epaulets, 
(the uniform of his regiment) a small cocked hat, in which 
was a little national cockade. In his hand he carried a 
small riding whip. His boots were made in the fashion 
of English riding boots, which I have before condemned, on 
account of their being destitute of military appearance. The 
reason why they are preferred by the French officers, is on 
account of the top-leather not soiling the knees of the pan- 
taloons when in the act of putting one leg over the other. 
Bonaparte rode through the lines. His beautiful charger 
seemed conscious of the glory of his rider, and bore him 
through the ranks with a commanding and majestic pace. 
The colours of one of the regiments was stationed close 
under the window, where I had the good fortune of being 
placed. Here the hero stopped, and saluted them. At 
this time I was close to him, and had the pleasure of com- 
pletely gratifying that curiosity of beholding the persons of 
distinguished men, which is so natural to all of us. 

A few minutes after Bonaparte had passed, I saw a proces- 
sion, the history of which I did not, understand at the time, 



220 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



RESTORATION OF ARTILLERY COLOURS. 



but which fully explained its general purport. About two 
years since, one of the regiments of artillery revolted in 
battle. Bonaparte, in anger, deprived them of their colours, 
and suspended them, covered with crape, amongst the cap- 
tive banners of the enemy, in the Hall of Victory. The regi- 
ment, affected by the disgrace, were determined to recover 
the lost esteenrj of their general and their country, or perish 
to the last man. When any desperate enterprize was to be 
performed, they volunteered their services, and by this mag- 
nanimous compunction, covered their shame with laurels;, 
and became the boast and pride of the republican legions. 
This day was fixed upon for the restoration of their ensigns. 
They were m^arched up under a guard of honour, and pre- 
sented to the First Consul, who took the black drapery from 
their staves, tore it in pieces, threw it on the ground, and 
drove his charger indignantly over it. The regenerated 
banners were than restored to the regiment, with a short 
and suitable address. I faintly heard this laconic speech, 
but not distinctl}'- enough to offer any criticism upon the 
eloquence of the speaker. This exhibition had its intended 
effect, and displayed the genius of this extraordinary man, 
who, with unerring acuteness, knows so well to give to 
every public occurrence that dramatic hue and interest 
which are so gratifying to the minds of the people over 
whom he presides. After this ceremony, the several regi- 
ments, preceded by their bands of music, marched before 
bim in open order, and dropped their colours as they passed. 
The flying artillery and cavalry left the parade in full 
gallop, and made a terrific noise upon the pavement. Each 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ggj 

MADAME BONAPARTE. 

field-piece was drawn by six horses, upon a carriage with 
larsre wheels. Here the review closed. 



•to" 



** Farewell, the neighing steed, and the shrill trump, 
** The spirit-stirrinj^ drum, the ear-piercing fife, 
*' The royal banner, and all qualih', 
*• Pride, pomp and circumstance of glorious war." 

Bonaparte returned to the palace, where he held a 
splendid levee, at which the new Turkish embassy was 
introduced. 

In the evening I saw Bonaparte and his lady at the 
opera, where he was received with respect, but without 
any clamorous acclamation, 

Madame Bonaparte appears to be older than the First 
Consul. She is an elegant woman, and is said to conduct 
herself in her high station, with becoming dignity and 
prudence, 



222 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Abbe Sieyes.— 'Consular Procession fa ihe Council Chamber. — 
Tenth of August, 1792. — Celerity of Monsieur Fouchc^s 
Police Information. — The txvo Lovers.' — Cabinet of Mow- 
sieur le Grand. — Se[f-presc?ibing Phi/sician. — Bust of Ro- 
bespierre. — His Lodgings. — Corn Hall. — Museum of French 
Monuments, — Revolutionarj/ Agent, — Lovers of Married 
Women. 



A 



NEAT remark was made upon the Abbe Sieyes, to 
whose probfic mind the revobit'ion and all its changes have 
been impated. This extraordinary man has a noble house 
in the Champs Elisess, and is said to have the best cook in 
Paris, As a party in which 1 was, were passing his hotel, 
a near relation of the Abbe, who happened to be with us, 
commented upon the great services which the cloistered 
fabricator of constitutions had afforded to France, and ad- 
verted to his house and establishment as an unsuitable re- 
ward for his labours; — a gentleman, who was intimate 
with the Abbe, but was no great admirer of his morals, 
said, •' I think my dear madame, the Abbe ought to be 
** very well satisfied with his destiny ; and I would advise 
** him to live as long as he can in the Champs Elisees ; for 
'* when he shall happen to experience that mysterious 
** transition to which we are all hastening, I think the 
** chances will be against his finding good accommodations 
** in any other Elysium." 

As I was passing one morning through the hall of the 
Thuillerie?, the great door of the council chamber was 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 293 

CONSULAR PROCESSION TENTH OF AUGUST, 1792. 

opened, and the Second and Third Consuls, preceded and 
followed by their suite in full costume, marched with great 
pomp to business, to the roll of a drum. This singular 
procession from one part of the house to the other, had a 
ridiculous effect, and naturally reminded me of the fustian 
pageantry, which, upon the stage, attends the entries and 
exits of the Kings and Queens of the drama. 

I have often been surprised to find that the injuries 
which the cornice of the entrance, and the capitals of the 
columns, in the hall of the Thuilleries, have sustained from 
the ball of cannon, during the horrible massacre of the 10th 
of August, 1792, have never been repaired. Every ves- 
ticre of that day of dismay and slaughter ought for ever to 
be effaced ; instead of which, some labour has been exer- 
cised to perpetuate its remembrance. Under the largest 
chasms which have been made by the shot, is painted, in 
strong characters, that gloomy date. 

In the evening of that day of devastation, from which 
France may date all her sufferings, a friend of mine went 
into the court-yard of the Thuilleries, where the review is 
now held, for the purpose of endeavouring to recognise, 
amongst the dead, any of his acquaintances. In the course 
of this shocking search, he declared to me, that he counted 
no less than eight hundred bodies of Swiss and Frenchj^ 
who had perished in that frightful contest between an in- 
fatuated people and an irresolute sovereign. I will not 
dilate upon this painful subject, but dismiss it in the words 
of the holy and resigned descendant of Nahor, ** Let that 
** day be darkness ; let not God regard it from above^ 



ig24 THE STRANGeH IN FRANCE. 

CELERITY OP MONSIEUR FOUCHE's POLICE INFORMATION. 

** neither let the h'ght shine upon it ; let darkness and the 
•' shadow of death stain it ; let a cloud dwell upon it ; let 
** the blackness of the day terrify it.'* 

I have before had occasion to notice the promptitude 
and activity of the French police, under the penetrating eye 
of Mons. Fouche. No one can escape the vigilance of this 
inan and his emissaries. An emigrant of respectability 
assured me, that when he and a friend of his, waited upon 
him for their passports to enable them to quit Paris for the 
South of France, he surprised them by relating to them the 
names of the towns, the streets, and of the people with 
whom they had lodged, at various times^ during theit 
emigration in England. 

Whilst I was at Paris^ an affair happened very near thd 
hotel in which I lodged, which, in its sequel, displayed that 
high spirit and sensibility which appear to form the presid- 
ing features in the French character, to which may be 
attributed all the excesses which have stained, and all the 
glory which has embellished it* 

A lady of fortune, and her only daughter, an elegant 
and lovely young woman, resided in the P^auxbourg St« 
Germain. A young man of merit and accomplishments, 
but unaided by the powerful pretensions of suitable fortune, 
cherished a passion for tiie young lady, to whom he had 
frequent access, on account of his being distantly related to 
her. His affection was requited with return ; and before 
the parent suspected the attachment, the lovers were so- 
lemnly engaged. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ^§5 

■' am ' ■ ~ r 

THE TWO LOVERS 

The indications of pure love are generally too unguard- 
ed to escape the keen observing eye of a cold mercenary- 
mother. She charged her daughter with her fondness, and 
forbade her distracted lover the house. To close up every 
avenue of hope, she withdrew with her wretched child into 
Italy, where they remained for two years ; at the expiration 
of which, the mother had arranged for her daughter a match 
more congenial to her own pride and avarice, with an elder- 
ly gentleman, who had considerable fortune and property 
in the vicinity of Bourdeaux, Every necessary preparation 
was made for this cruel union, which it was determined 
should be celebrated in Paris, to which city they returned 
for that purpose. Two days before the marriage was inten- 
ded to take place, the young lover, wrought up to frenzy 
hy the intelligence of the approaching nuptials, contrived, 
by bribing the porter whilst the mother was at the opera 
with her intended son-in-law, to reach the room of the be- 
loved being from whom he was about to be separated for 
ever. Emaciated by grief, she presented the mere spectre of 
what she was when he last left her. As soon as he entered 
the room he fell senseless at her feet, from v^hich state he was 
roused by t'ne loud fits of her frightful maniac Luehter. She 
stared upon him, like one bewildered. He clasped her with 
one hand, and with the other drew from his pocket a vial 
containing double distilled laurel water : he pressed it to 
her lips, until she had swallowed half of its contents ; the 
remainder he drank himself.— The drug of death soon be- 
gan to operate. — Clasped in each other's arms, pale and ex- 
piring, they reviewed their hard fate, and, in faint and less- 
ening sentences, implored of the great God of mercVi that , 

E e 



gO(5 '^HE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

THE TWO LOVE«S. 

he would pardon tberfi for what they had done, and that he 
would receive their spirits into his regions of eternal repose ; 
that he would be pleased, in his divine goodness, to forgive 
the misjudging severity which had driven them to despair, 
and would support the unconscious author of it, under 
the heavy afflictions which their disastrous deaths would 
occasion. 

They bad scarcely finished their prayer, when they 
heard footsteps approaching the room. 

Madame B , who had been indisposed at the operajf 

returned home before its conclusion, with the intended 
bridegroom. The young man awoke, as it were, from his 
deadly drowsiness, and, exerting his last strength, pulled 
from his breast a dagger, stabbed the expiiing being upon 
whom he doated, to the heart ; and, falling upon her body, 
gave himself several mortal wounds. The door opened ;^. 
the frantic mother appeared. All the house was in an in- 
stant alarmed ; and the fatal explanation which furnished 
the materials of this short and sad recital, was taken from 
the lips of the dying lover, who had scarcely finished it be- 
fore he breathed his last. Two days afterwards, the story 
was hawked about the streets. 

From this painful narrative, in which the French impet- 
uosity is strongly depicted, 1 must turn to mention my 

visit to Mons. le G- , who lives in the Rue Florentine, 

and is considered to be one of the fxrst'architects in France, 
in which are many monuments of his taste and elegance. 
It is a curious circumstance that all artists exercise their tal-* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 227 

SELF - PRESCRIBING PHYSICIAN. 

ents more successfully for their patrons than for them<^elves. 
Whether it is the hope of a more, substantial reward than 
that of mere self-complacency, which usually excites the 
mitui to its happiest exertons, 1 will not pretend to deter- 
mine ; but the point seems to be in some degree settled by 
the conduct of a celebrated Buth physician, of whom it is 
related, that, happening once to suffer under a malady, from 
which, as his skill had frequently relieved others, he deter- 
mined to prescribe for himself. The recipe at first had not 
the desired effect. The doctor was surprised. At last he 
recollected that he had not feed himself. Upon making 
this discovery, he drew the strings of his purse, and with 
his left hand placed a guinea in his right, and then prescri- 
bed. The story concludes by informing its readers, that 

the prescription succeeded, and the doctor recovered In 

adorning the front of his own hotel, Mons. le G , in 

my very humble opinion, has not exhibited his accustomed 
powers. In a small confined court-yard, he has attempted to 
give to a private dwelling the appearance of one of those vast 
temples of which he became enamoured when at Athens. 
The roof is supported by two massy fluted pilastres, 
■which in size are calculated to bear the burthen of some 
prodigious dome. The muscular powers of Hercules seem 
to he here exercised in raising a grasshopper from the 

ground. The genius of Mons. le G , unlike the world's 

charity, does not begin at home, but seems more disposed to 
display its most successful energies abroad. His roof, how- 
ever, contains such a monument of his goodness and gene- 
rosity, that I must not pass it over. This distinguished 
architect is one of those unfortunate beings who have 



mS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

ANECDOTE OF MONSIEUR LE G . 

been decreed to taste the bitterness, very soon after the 
sweets of matrimony. . Upon discovering the infidehty of 
his lady, who is very pretty and prepos-essing, the distract- 
ed husband immediately sought a divorce from the laws of 
his country. This affair happened a very short umt before 
the revolution aiForded unusual acceleration and facilities to 
the wishes of parties, who, under similar circumstances, 
"wished to get rid of each other as soon as possible. 1 he 
then *Maw's delay-' afforded some cause of vexation to 
Mons. le G— — , who was deeply injured. Before his 
suit had passed through its last forms, the father of his wife, 
■who at the time of their marriage lived in great affluence, 
became a bankrupt. In the vortex of his failure, all thp 
means of supporting his family were swallowed up. The 
generous le G- , disdaining to expose to want and igno- 
miny, the woman who had once been dear to him, would 
proceed no further. She is still his wife ; she bears his 
name, is maintained by him, and in a separate suite of 
apartments, lives under the sarne roof with him. But 
Mons. and Madame le G— — have had np intercourse 
tvhatever with each other for eleven years. If, in the galle- 
ry or in the hall, they meet by accident, they pass without 
the interchange of a word. This painful and difficult ar- 
rano'ement has now lost a considerable portion of its misery, 
by having become familiar to the unfortunate couple. 

In the valuable and curious cabinet of Mons. le G , 

I found out, behind several other casts, a bust of Robes- 
pierre, which was taken of him, a short period before he 
fell. A tyrant, whose offences look white, contrasted with 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 22© 



BUST OF ROBESPIERRE. 



the deep delinquency of the oppressor of France, is sai4 
to be indebted more to his character, than to nature, for the 
representation of that deformity of person which appears in 
Shakspeare's portrait of him, when he puts this soUloquy in 
his lips :— . 

** I that am curtailM of this fair proportion, 

*' Cheated of feature, by dissemb'idg Nature, 

** DeformM, unfiuish'd, sent before my time 

^* Ir.to the breathing world, scarce half made up j 

«* And tiiat fo lamely and unfashionably, 

*< That dogs bark at me, as 1 halt by them." 

History, enraged at the review of the insatiable crlmcf 
of Robespierre, has already bestowed upon him a fanciful 
physiognomy, which she has composed of features which 
rather correspond with the ferocity of his soul, than with 
his real countenance. From the appearance of this bust, 
which is an authentic resemblance of him, his face must 
have been rather handsome. His features were small, and 
his countenance must have strongly expressed animation, 
penetration and subtlety. This bust is a real curiosity. It 
is very likely that not another is now to be found. Mons. 

le G IS permitted to preserve it without reproach, on 

account of his art. I can safely say, he does not retain it 
from any emotions of veneration for the original* It is 
■worthy of being placed between the heads of Caligula and 

Nero. Very near the residence of Mons. le G , is the 

house in which Robespierre lodged. It is at the end of the 
Rue Florentine, in the Rue St. Honore, at a wax chan- 
dler's. This man is too much celebrated, not to render 
every thing which relates to him curious. The front win- 



^3d THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 



CORN HALL. 



dows of his former lodgings looks towards the place de la 
Concorde, on the right of which, his prime minister, the 
permanent guillotine, was quartered. Robespierre, who, 
like the revolting angel, before the world's formation, ap- 
pears to have preferred the sceptre of Hell and chaos, to 
the allegiance of order and social happiness, will descend to 
posterity with no common attributes of distinction and pre- 
eminence. His mind was fully suited to its labours, which, 
in their wide sphere of mischief, required more genius to 
direct them, than was bestowed upon the worst of the tyrants 
of Rome, and a spirit of evil, which, with its *' broad 
circumference*' of guilt, was calculated to darken the disk 
of their less expanded enormity. 

From Robespierre's lodgings, curiosity led me to visit 
the building in which the Jacobin club held their Pandemo- 
nium. It is a noble edifice, and once belonged to the Or- 
der of Jacobins. Near this church stands the beautiful 
fabric of the Corn Hall of Paris, designed by Monsieur le 
Grand, The dome of the bank of England is in the same 
style, but inferior in point of lightness and elegance. That 
of the Corn Hall resembles a vast concavity of glass. In 
this noble building the millers deposit their corn for sale. 
Its deep and lofty arches and area, were nearly filled with 
sacks, containing that grain which is precious to all nations, 
but to none more than the French ; to a Fi-enchman, bread 
is most emphatically the staff of life. He consumes more 
of it at one meal than an Englishman does at four. In 
France, the little conbpar'ative quantity of bread which the 
English consume, is considered to form a part of their na« 
tional character. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ggt 



MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONrjMENTS. 



Before l left Paris, I was requested to visit a very- 
curious and interesting exhibition, the Museum of French 
Monuments ; for the reception of which, the ancient con- 
vent of the monks of the Order of les Petits Augus- 
tines, is appropriated. This national institution is intend- 
ed to exhibit the progress of monumental taste in France, 
for several centuries past, the specimens of which have 
chiefly been collected from St, Denis, which formerly was 
the burial place of the monarchs of France, and from other 
churches. 

It will be remembered by the reader, that in the year 
1793, Henriot, a vulgar and furious republican, proposed 
setting off for the former church, at the head of the sans 
culottes, to destroy all these curious and valuable relics, 
** to strike,'* as he said, " the tyrants in their tombs !" 
but was prevented by some other republicans of influence 
who had not parted with their veneration for works of 
taste, from this impious and impotent outrage. 

In the first hall, which is very large, and impresses a 
similar awe to that which is generally felt upon entering a 
cathedral, are the tombs of th- twelfth century. Amongst 
them I chiefly distinguished that of Kenry II, upon which 
are three beautiful mourning figures, supporting a cup 
containing his heart. 

In the second hall, are the monuments of the thirteenth 
century, most of them are very fine ; that of Lewis the 
XUth and his queen, is well worthy of notice. J did not 
find much to gratify me in the hall of the fourteenth cen- 
tury. In that of the fifteenth century, are several nobk 



g39 "THE STRANGER IN FRANCE^ 

MUSEfM OF FRENCH MONUMtNTS, 

tombs, and beautiful windows of stained glass. In the 
hall of the sixteenth century, is a fine statue of Henry 
the IVth, by Franchville, which is considered to be an 
admirable likeness of that wonderful man. In the hall of 
the seventeenth century, is a noble figure representing re- 
ligion, by Girardon. 

In the cloisters are several curious statues, stamed glass 
windows, and tesselated pavement. There is here, also, a 
good bust of Alexis Peron, with this singular epitaph, 

Ci git qui ne fuf rien^ 
Pas merne acaciemicien^ 

In the square garden within the cloisters, are several 
ancient urns, and tombs. Amongst them is the vase which 
contains the ashes, if any remain, of Abelard arid iieloiscj 
which has been removed from the Paraclete to the Museum. 
It is covered with the graceful shade of an Acacia tree, 
which seems to wave proudly over its celebrated deposit. 
Upon approaching this treasurable antique, all those feehngs 
rushed in upon me, which the beautiful, and affecting nar-* 
rative of those disastrous lovers, by Pope, has often excited 
in me. The melancholy Heloise seemed here to breathe 
from her tomb, 

" If ever chance two wandering lovers brings, 

** O'er the pale marble shall they join their headsy 

** And drink the falling tear each other sheds : 

** Then sadly say, with mutnal pity muv'd, 

«« Oh I may we never love as these have lov'd."* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 233 

MUSEUM OF FRENCH MONUMENTS — INTERESTING STORY. 

National guards are stationed in every apartment of the 
Museum, and present rather an unaccording appearance, 
amidst the peaceful solemnity of the surrounding objects. 
This exhibition is not yet completed, but, in its present 
condition, is very intere.sting. Some hints, not altogether 
useless, may be collected from it. lo England, our church- 
es are charnel houses. The pews of the congregation are 
raised upon foundations of putrefaction. For six days and 
nights, the temple of devotion is filled with the pestilent 
vapours of the dead, and on the seventh, they are absorbed 
by the living. Surely it is high tirrie to subdue prejudices, 
which endanger health without promoting piety. The 
Scotch never bury in their churches, and their burial places 
are upon the confines of their towns. The eye of adora- 
tion is filled with a pensive pleasure, in observing itself 
Surrounded with the endeavours of taste and ingenuity, to 
lift the remembrance of the great and good beyond the 
grave, in that very spot where the frailty of our nature iS 
so often inculcated. 

Such a display, in such a place, is rational, suitable, and 
admonitory. The silent tomb becomes auxiliary to the 
eloquence of the pulpit. But the custom which converts 
the place of worship into a catacomb, can afford but a 
tnistaken consolation to posthumous pride, and must, iri 
some degree, contaminate the atniosphere which is contain^ 
ed within its walls. 

One evening, as I was passing through the Boulevard 
Italien, in company with a gentleman from Toulon, we 
tnet a tall, dark, hollow-eyed, ferocious looking man^ of 
Whom he related the following story^ 
F f 



254 'fHE STilANGfiR IN FKANCE. 



BLOODY REVOLUTIONARy AGENTS 



Immediately after the evacuation of Toulon by the 
Knglish^ all the principal Toulonese citizens were ordered 
to repair to the market place ; where they were surrounded 
by a great military force. 

This man, who, for his offences, had been committed to 
prison, Avas liberated by the French agents, in consequence 
of his undertaking to select those of the inhabitants who 
had in any manner favoured the capitulation of the town, 
or who had shown any hospitality to the English, whilst 
they were in possession of it. The miscreant passed before 
the citizens, who were drawn out in lines, amounting to 
near three thousand. Amongst whom he pointed out 
about one thousand four hundred persons to the fury of the 
government. Without any other evidence, or further exami- 
nation, they were all immediately adjudged to be shot. For 
this purpose a suitable number of soldiers were drawn out. 
The unhappy victims were marched up to their destruction, 
upon the quay, in sets of three hundred, and butchered ! ! I 

The carnage was dreadful. In the last of these unfor- 
tunate groupes, were two gentlemen of great respectability, 
who received no wound from the fire, but, to preserve 
themselves, dropped with the rest, and exhibited all the 
appearances of having participated in the general fate. 

This execution took place in the evening : Immediately 
after its close, the soldiers, fatigued, and sick with cold- 
blooded slaughter, marched back to their quarters, without 
examining whether every person upon whom they had fired, 
had fallen a victim to the murderous bullet. Soon after the 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 035 

BLOODY REVOLUTIONARY AGENTS. 

soldiers had retired, the women of Toulon, allured by 
plunder, proceeded to the fatal spot. Mounted upon the 
bodies of the fallen, they stripped the dead and dying. 
The nitrht was stormy. The moon, emerging from dark 
clouds, occasionally, shed its pale lustre upon this horrible 
scene I 

When the Inhuman plunderers had abandoned their prey, 
during an interval of deep darkness, in the dead of the 
night, when all was silent, unconscious of each other's 
intentions, the two citizens who had escaped the general 
carnage, disencumbered themselves from the dead, under 
whom they were buried ; chilled and naked, in an agony 
of mind not to be described, they, at the same moment, 
attempted to escape. In their agitation, they rushed against 
each other. Expressions of terror and surprise, dropped 
from each of them. *' Oh 1 God ! it is my father !" said 
one, " My son ! my son 1 my son !" exclaimed the other 
clasping him in his arms. They were father and son, who 
had thus miraculously escaped, and met in this extraor- 
dinary manner I 

The person from whom I received this account, in.^ 
formed me, that he knew these gentlemen very well, and 
that they had been re-settled in Toulon about two years. 

The wretch who had thus directed the ruthless ven- 
geance of a revolutionary banditti, against the breasts of his 
fellow citizens, was at this time in Paris, soliciting, from 
the present government, from a total misconception of its 
nature, those remunerations which had been promised, but 
Jiever realized by his barbarous employers. 



^S6 THE STRANGER IN FRANCje. 



LOVERS OF MARRIED WOMEN. 



I need scarcely add, that although he had been in the 
capital several months, he had not been able to gain access 
to the minister-s Secretary. 

The time of terror was oyer-— the murderer's occupation 
>vas gone — the guillotine, with unsatiated hunger, after 
having gorged the food which was thrown to it, had dc-= 
youred its feeder I 

I must leave it to the ingenuity of my reader, to connect 
the observation with which I shall close this chapter, with 
the preceding story, for I am only enabled to do so, by ob- 
serving, that an impressive instance of the subject of it, oc- 
curred immediately after my mind had been harrowed up, 
by the narrative which I have just related. The married 
women of France feel no compunctious visitings of con- 
science, in cherishing about them a circle of lovers, amongst 
•whom their husbands are merely more favoured than the 
rest. I hope 1 shall not be considered as an apologist, for 
an indulgence, which in France, excites no jealousy in oncg 
and no surprise amongst the many, when J declare, that I 
confidently believe, in most instances, it commences, and 
guiltlessly terminates in the love of admiration. 1 know, 
^nd visited in Paris, a most lovely and accomplished young 
woman, who had been married about two years. She 
admitted the visits of men whom she knew were passion- 
ately fond of her. Sometimes she received them in the 
presence, and sometimes in the absence of her husband, ai 
accident, not arrangement, directed. They approached 
lier with all the agitation and tenderness of the most ardent 
lovers. Amongst the number, was a celebrated oratoic 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, 237 

LOVERS OF MARRIED WOMEN. 

This man was her abject slave. A glance from her expres- 
sive eye raised him to the summit of bliss, or rendered his 
night sleepless. The complacent husband of Madame 

G resrarded these men as his most beloved friends, 

because they enlarged the happiness of his wife ; and, 
strange as it may appear, I believe that he had as little cause 
to complain as Othello, and therefore never permitted hii 
repose to be disturbed by those suspicions which preyed 
"noa the vitals of the hapless Moor, The French Benedict 
ight truly exclaim, 

« 'Tis not to make me jealous, 

« To >ay my wife is fair, feeds well, loves company, 
«< Is free of speech, sings, plays, and dances well ; 
** Where virtue is, these are more virtuous ; 
<* Nor from my own weak merits, will I draw 
<* The smallest fear^ or doubt of her revolt." 



238 THE STRANGER IN FEANCE, 



CHAPTER XXI. 

rictureaque and Mechanical Theatre, — Filtrating and purify- 
ing Vases. — English Jacobin:^, — A farexvell. — Message- 
rie. — Mai Maisoa. — Forest ofEvreux. — Longer Normandy. 
—Caen. — Hon. T. Erskine.—A Ball.— The Keeper of 
the Sachristy of Not re Dame.— The two blind Beggars .--^ 
Ennui.— St. Lo. — Cherbourg. — England. 

X VISITED, one evening, a very beautiful exhibition, 
which I think worthy of being noticed ; It was the pictu- 
resque and mechanical theatre. The company present 
were select and genteel. The room and stage were upon a 
small scale ; the former was very elegantly fitted up. The 
spectacle consisted of scenery and appropriate little moving 
figures. The first scene wa'^ a view of a wood in early 
morning, every object looked blue, fresh, and dewy. The 
gradations of light, until the approach of meridian day, 
were admirably represented. Serpents were seen crawling 
in the grass, A I'ttle sportsman entered with his fowling- 
piece, and imitated all the movements natural to his pursuit, 
a tiny wild duck rose from a lake, and flew before him. 
He pointed his <xun, changed his situation, pointed it again, 
and fired. The bird dropped ; he threw it over his shoul- 
ders, fastened to his gun, and retired. Waggons, drawn 
by horses about four inches high, passed along ; groups of 
peasantry followed, exquisitely imitating all the indications of 
life. Amonost several other scenes was a beautiful view of 
the Bay of Naples, and the great bridge ; over which, little 
horses, with their riders, passed in the various paces of 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. ^2S9 



PICTURESQUE AND MECHANICAL THEATRE 



walking, trotting and galloping. All the minut'as of na- 
ture were attended to. The ear was beguiled with the pat- 
ting of the horses' hoofs upon the pavement; and some of 
the little animals reared, and ran before the others. There 
were also some charming little sea-pieces, in which the ves- 
sels sailed with their heads towards the spectators, and ma- 
noeuvered in a surprising manner. The whole concluded 
with a storm and shipwreck. Sailors were seen floating in 
the water, then sinkinj^ in the surge. One of them rose 
again, and, reached a rock. Boats put off to his relief, and 
perished in the attempt. The Uttle figure was seen display- 
ing the greatest agonies. The storm subsided ; tiny per- 
sons appeared upon the top of a projecting clifF, near a 
watch tower, and lowered a rope to the little sufferer below, 
which he caught, and, after ascending to some height by it, 
overwhelmed with fatigue, lost his hold. After recovering 
from the fall, he renewed his efforts, and at length reached 
the top in safety, amidst the acclamations of the spectators, 
who, moved by this enchanting little illusion, took much 
interest in the apparent distress of the scene. 

Upon quitting the theatre, we found a real storm with- 
out. The lightning flamed upon us from every quarter, 
and was succeeded by loud peals of thunder. Whilst we 
were contemplating the tempest from the balcony of Ma- 
dame S , a ball of fire fell very near us, and filled the 

room with a sulphureous stench. A servant soon after- 
wards entered, almost breathless, to inform his mistress, 

Madame R , who was of the party, that the fire-ball 

had penetrated her house, which was close adjoiiimg, with- 



^40 'iL'HE STJlANGER IN FRANCE. 

FILTRATING AND PURIFYING VASES. 

out having effected any injury. Madame R laughed 

heartily, and observed ^ " Well, it is very droll that the 
** lightning should make so free with my house when I am 
** not at home.** This little sprightly remark dispersed 
the gloom which had overshadowed most of the ladies 
present. All the large houses in Paris are well protected 
against the perilous effect of electric fluid, by conductors, 
which are very judiciously disposed. 

An invention has lately made its appearance in Paris, 
which is as full of utility as it is of genius. A house has 
been lately opened for the sale of filtrating and purifying 
vases, to which the ingenious constructor has given the 
most elegant Etruscan shapes. They are capable of refi-* 
ning the most fetid and corrupt water, by a process, which, 
m its operation, lasts about four minutes. The principle is 
the same as in nature. The foul water is thrown into the 
vase, where it passes through various strata of earth, which 
are compressed in a series of little apartments, which retain 
its offensive particles, and from which it issues as clear and 
as sweet as rock water. This discovery will prove of infi* 
nite consequence to families who reside in the maritime 
parts of Holland, and to many inland towns in Fiance, 
where the water is frequently very bad. I most cordially 
liope that the inventor will meet with the remuneration 
which is due to his humane philosophy. 

After having experienced a most cordial display of kind- 
nesses and hospitalities, I prepared to return to my own 
country, ** i ha f. precious sfone set in the silver sea,** I had 
to part with those, who, in the short space of one fleeting 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. g4i 

A FAREWELL 

month, had, by their endearing and fluttering attentions, 
rivetted themselves to my affections, with the force of a 
long, and frequent, and cherished intercourse, who, in a 
country where I expected to feel the comfortless sensations 
of a foreigner, made me forget that I was even a stranger* 
Amongst those who excited a considerable share of my re- 
gret upon parting, were the elegant and charming family of 

the S '*s. As I was preparing to take my leave, 

Madame S said, ** You must not forget us because a 

few waves divide our countries.'* 

*' If he will lend me his pocket-book,*' said one of her 
lovely daughters, I will try and see if my pencil will not 
preserve us in his memory, at least for a little time.'* 

I presented it to her, and in a few minutes she made an 
elegant little sketch, which she called ** The affectionate 
Mother." Amiable young artist ! may time, propitious to 
the happiness of some generous being, who is worthy of 
such an associate, hail thee with the blissful appellation ! 
and may the graceful discharge of those refined and affecting 
duties which flow from connubial love, entitle thee, too 
much esteemed to be envied, to the name of the modern 
Cornelia I 

Several Englishmen, whilst I was at Paris, met with 
Very vexatious delays in procuring their passports to enabld 
them to leave it, from a mistaken course of application. 
Instead of applying to M. Fouche, or any other municipal 
officer, I would recommend them to procure their passports 
from their own ambassador, and send it to the office of 

Gg 



^42 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

MESSAGEKIE MALE KISSING STAGE PASSENGERS. 

Moris. Talleyrand for his endorsement ; by which means 
they will be enabled to quit the republic in two or three 
days after their application. 

Having previously determined to return by the way of 
Lovyer Normandy, upon the beauty and luxuriance of 
which I had heard much eulogy, about half past five 
o'clock in the morning of the 21st of Prairail, I left my 
hotel, and proceeded to the Messagerie, from which the 
diligences, all of which are under the control of the na- 
tion, set out. The morning was very beautiful. I was 
much entertained before I mounted that cumbrous vehicle, 
which was to roll me a little nearer to my own coast, -by 
viewing the numerous groups of travellers and their friends, 
who surrounded the different carriages as the horses were 
tacklin^y to them. In different directions of my eye, I saw 
about thirty men kissing each other. The women in 
France never think their prerogatives infringed by this 
anti-anglo mode of salutation. Some shed tears at parting ; 
but the cheek down which they trickled, never lost its 
colour or vivacity. All were animated ; every eye looked 
bright ; there was a gaiety in their very grief. " Bon voy- 
«' age, bon voyage — Dieu vous benisse, Dieu vous benisse," 
reiterated on all sides, from sprightly faces, stretched out of 
the window frames of the massy machine, as it rattled 
through the gates of the yard, to the incessant crackings of 
the postilion's long lash. I soon afterwards found myself 
seated in the diligence for Cherbourg, in company with two 
ladies, and three gentlemen, who were all polite and pleas- 
ing. In the cabriole, forward, was a French captain in the 
army, who had been in Tippoo's service at the time of the 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 243 



MAL MAISON. 



surrender of Seringapatam. He looked abominably dirty- 
in his travelling habiliments ; but that, in France, is now 
no just indication of inferiority or vulgarity. 

We passed by the Place de la Concorde, upon the sta- 
tues and buildings of which, and the gardens of the Thuil- 
leries, the fresh and early sun shone most beautifully. My 
merry, but feeling fellow travellers, waving their hands, 
addressed a short apostrophe to these suburb objects, and 
exclaimed, ** adieu ma tres jolie ville — ah 1 tres jolie villc 
adieu." 

For near three miles after leaving the barrier, we passed 
through plantations of roses, which supply the markets of 
Pans with that beautiful flower, which, transferred thence, 
adorn the toilets, the vases, and the bosoms of the fair Pari- 
sians, and form the bouquets of the petite maitres ; on each 
side of the road were cherry trees, in full bearing, which 
presented a very charming appearance. We soon reached 
the water works of Marli, which supply the jets d'eau of 
Versailles. They are upon a vast scale, and appear to be 
very curious, A little further on we passed Mai Maison, 
the country, and chief residence of the First Consul and his 
family. It is an ancient house, embosomed in beautiful 
woods and gardens. At the entrance are large military- 
lodges, for the accommodation of a squadron of the consu- 
lar cavalry, who mount guard when their general is here. 

At St. Germain's we breakfasted upon pork cutlets, 
excellent bread, wine, and cherries, for twenty sols, or ten 
pence English. At Mante we had an excellent dinner, of 
several dishes, for thirty sols, or one shilling and three pence 



@44 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

FOREST OF EVREnX. 

r - 

English, Soon after we had passed Mante, we left the 
higher Norman road, and entered a country extremely pic- 
turesque and rich. We were conducted through the forest 
of Evreux, by an escort of chasseurs. This vast tract of 
land is infested by an immense banditti, who live in large 
excavations in the earth, similar to the subterranean apart- 
ments of ithe celebrated robbers, in whose service Gil Bias 
Was rather reluctantly enrolled, and generally assail the 
.traveller, with a force which would render common resist- 
ance perilous and unavailing. This forest, in the course 
of the year, furnishes considerable employ for the guillotine 
of Caen, where the tribunal of justice is seated. The ap- 
pearance of our guards was terrific enough to appal such 
valiant souls as once animated the frames of Prince Hal, 
and his merry friend Ned Poins. They wore Roman Hel- 
mets, from which descended, to the bottom of their backs, 
an immense tail of thick black horse-hair, their uniform 
^as light green, and looked rather shabby. 

We passed the forest without any molestation, and sup- 
ped at the town of Evreux, which is very pleasant, where 
we halted for about four hours. As we were afterwards 
proceeding, I prepared myself to enjoy a little sleep, and 
as I reclined tor this puipose with my hat over my face, 
in a corner of the carriage, I overheard one of my fellow 
travellers observe to the other, " the EngHshman is sleep- 
ing," to which he replied, " no, he Is not sleeping, he is 
<=' only thinking, it is the character of his nation." 

The French cannot bear the least appearance of thought ; 
They have a saying, *' un homme qui lit ne sera jamais 
dannereux.'* 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 945 

LOWER NORMANDY. 

The next morning we breakfasted at Lisleux, an ancient 
town, in which are the remains of a fine convent, which 
formerly belonged to the Order of the Capuchins. For 
four or five miles before we approached the town, the 
laughing and animated faces of groups of peasantry, all in 
their jubilee dresses, the old mounted upon asses, and the 
young walknig by the sides of them, hastening to the town, 
announced to us, that a fair, and merry making, was to be 
Jield there, on that day, Lisieux was quite in a bustle. 
About six o'clock in the evening of the same day, we ar- 
rived at Caen, the capitctl of Lower Normandy. My fare 
to this city from Paris, amounted to thirty livres, including 
my luggage. 1 had not completed my dinner at the Hotel 
de la place, before an English servant entered my room, to 

inform me, that his mistress, Mrs. P , who, with 

her daughters, and another young lady, had the rooms over 
mine, presented her compliments to me, and requested me 
to take my coffee with them that evening. I must confess 
I was at first a little surprised at the message, for the En- 
glish are not very remarkable for politeness and attention 
to one another in a foreign country. 

After I had finished my dessert, I made my bow to Mrs, 

P , and her family, who proved to be verj^ pleasant, 

and accomplished people, and were making the tour of 
France with English servants. They had been in Caen 
near three weeks, where they had a large acquaintance of 
the first respectability. This unexpected introduction be- 
came additionally agreeable, upon my discovering at the 
Messagerie, that the diligence for Cherbourg would not 
proceed till three days from the time of my arrival. Ihe 



SAG THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

CAEN HONOURABLE T. EHSKINE. 

next morning I rambled with my new friends about the 
city, which is large and handsome, and is watered by 
the river Orne. It is much celebrated for its lace trade. 

On that day I dined with IVJrs. P , and a French party, 

and was regaled with an English dinner, cooked and served 
up by her own servants. The filth of the French kitchen 
is too well known, to make it necessary for me to say how 
delicious such a dinner was. The French themselves admit 
that their cooks are destitute of cleanliness. 

The Convent of the Benedictines, which is converted 
into the palace of the prefect, is a noble building. The 
gardens belonging to it are well arranged. The promenade 
called de la Cour, is very charming, from which the city 
is seen to great advantage. The water of the Orne is ra- 
ther nauseous, but is not considered unwholesome. The 
Palais (le Justice is a fine modern structure. In its courts 
of law, I had again an opportunity of hearing the forensic 
elocut'on of Normandy. The gestures and vehemence of 
the orators here, as at Rouen, appeared to me to be tinctu- 
red with the extravagance of frenzy. But perhaps my ears 
and i'yes have been rendered somewhat too fastidious by 
having been frequently banqueted with the grace, anima- 
tion, and connmanding eloquence of the unrivalled advocate 
of the British bar ; who, when he retires from the labo- 
rious duties of the crowded and admiring forum, where his 
acute sagacity has so often unfolded the dark compact 
involutions of human obliquity, where his wit and fancy 
have covered with the choicest flowers, the dreary barren- 
iiess of technical pleading ; will leave behuid him that last"? 



*rHE STRANGER IN FRANCfi. tj^y 

. ^. . ... ^^- - 

CHARLOTTE CORDAY.— A BALL. 

ing and honoiirable respect and remembrance, which facul- 
ties so extensively beneficial, must ever excite in the minds 
of men who have been instructed, delighted, and benefited, 
by their splendid and prosperous display. 

In this city was pointed out to me, the house in which 
the celebrated Charlotte Corday resided, who, by her poniard 
delivered France of the monster Marat, on Sunday, the 
14th of July, 1793. There is some coincidence in the 
crimes and fate of Caligula and Marat, both perished by 
the avengers of their country, whilst in the act of approach-- 
ing their baths. Posterity will embalm, with its grateful 
remembrance, the patriotic heroism of this great, and distin- 
guished female, and in her own firm and eloquent lan- 
guage, will say of her, " that crime begets disgrace, and 
'' not the scaffold." 

On the evening after ray arrival at Caen, I was invited 
to an elegant ball, which was given by the lady of the pay- 
master general of the district, in one of the government 
houses. I had before witnessed the dancing of the higher 
orders of people in Paris, and from this reason was not sur- 
prised in contemplating the exquisite grace which was here 
displayed. The party consisted of near eighty persons ; 
amongst them were the judges of the district, and the prin- 
cipal officers quartered in the city and its neighbourhood ; 
the latter were attired in superb military dresses. Amongst 
the ladies were several beautiful well dressed young women, 
who exhibited their persons to great advantage. The grave 
and elderly part of the company played at buiUotte, which 



^48 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



is at present the favourite Ft*ench game. In France, to 
please and to be pleased, seem to be the two presiding prin- 
ciples in all their meetings. An elegant young officer, who 
had distinguished himself at the battle of Marengo, ob- 
serving that the musicians appeared to be a little fatigued, 
by the contribution of their exhilarating services towards 
the festivity of the eveningj supplied their placQ whilst they 
refreshed themselves, and struck up an English country- 
dance on one of the violins. The party attempted to dance 
it, but to show how arbitrary habit is, in the attempt, all 
those powers of grace, which they had before so beautifully 
displayed, retired, as if influenced by the magic of some 
unpropitious spirit. Amongst the party, was a little girl, 
about nine years old, who was dressed in the highest style 
of fashion, and looked like a fashionable milliner's doll. 
This little spoiled child was accustomed to spend an hour 
at her toilette every morning, and to be tricked out in all 
the ephemeral decoration of the haut ton. This little co- 
quette already looked out for admiration, and its foolish 
mother expressed the greatest satisfaction, when any one, 
out of politeness to her, paid attentions to the pert prema» 
ture nursling. Our entertainment concluded with a hand- 
some supper, and we parted, highly delighted, at the dawn 
of day. Nothing could be more flattering, than the atten- 
tions, which, as an Englishman, I received from every one 
present. 

After a few hours repose, I went with a large party to 
the church of Notre Dame j in which there is a very fine 
altar-piece. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 219 



THE KEEPEK OF THE SACHIUSTY OF NOTRE DAME 

The keeper of the sachrlsty, who was a very arch-looking 
little fellow, in spite of the solemnity of the place in which 
we were, made us all smile (even a young lady who was 
going to be confessed for the first time the next day, lost a 
considerable proportion of her gravity) by informing us, 
that during the time of terror, he had run off with the Vir- 
gin Mary, pointing to the Image, and that to prevent the 
detection of Robespierre's agents, he had concealed her in 
his bed for three years. Nothing could exceed his joy in 
having saved her from the hatchet or the flames, from 
which impending fate, she was restored to her former situa- 
tion in this church ; and was, when we saw her, by the 
extravagance of her sprightly and ardent protector, dressed 
in a white muslin gown, spotted with silver ; a little bou- 
quet of artificial flowers graced her bosom, and her wig 
was finely curled and powdered. The figure in her arms, 
which was intended to represent the infant Jesus, was dress- 
ed in a style equally unsuitable ; his hair was also curled 
and powdered, and a small cocked hat placed upon his 
head. 

Our delighted guide, whose eyes sparkled with self- 
complacency, asked us if we had ever seen a prettier Virgin 
Mary, or one dressed more handsomely. We were all 
much amused by the quaintness of this man's conduct, aU 
though I am confident he had no intention of exciting 
unbecoming sensations, for in saving this image, he had 
exposed his life. 

From Notre Dame, we went to the Abbaye aiii; 
Hommes, built by William the Conqueror. It is a large 

H h 



£50 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

BATTLE BETWELN TWO BLIND Bt-GGAKS 

lofty plain pile of building. The spires are well propor- 
tioned, and very high. The pillars in the choir, are, in my 
humble opinion, too massy. Preparations were here ma- 
kincffor the celebration of the great festival called the P>ast 
of God. We presented to one of the priests, who, in the 
sachristy, was adorning the cradle of our Saviour's image 
with flowers, some very fine moss roses, which in France 
arc very rare, which he received with great politeness. 
This festival before the revolution was always superbly 
celebrated. It was then renewed for the first time since the 
proscription of religion, during which, all the costly habits 
of the priests, and rich vessels, used in the ceremonies of the 
church, have been stolen, sold, or melted down. Near the 
altar, which has been shattered by the axe of the revolution, 
is the vault of the Norman conqueror. 

Upon our return to our hotel, we saw a considerable 
crowd near the bridge leading to de la Cour. Upon inqui- 
ring into the cause of this assemblage, we found it was owing 
to a curious rencounter between two blind beggars, who, iii 
total darkness, had been waging an uncertain battle for near 
six minutes. It appeared that one of them had, for several 
months, enjoyed quiet possession of the bridge, which hap- 
pened to be a great thoroughfare, and had during that time, 
by an undisputed display of his calamity, contrived to pick 
up a comfortable recompense for it ; that within a few days 
preceding this novel fracas, another mendicant, who had 
equal claims to compassion, allured by the repute of his 
success, had deserted a less frequented part of the city, and 
had presented himself at the other corner of the same bridge. 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 2M 



B\TTLE BlitWEEN TWO BLIND BEGGARS. 

where, by a more masterly selection of movino^ phrases, he 
soon, not only divided, but monopolized the eleemosynary 
revenues of this post of wretchedness. The original pos- 
sessor naturally grew jealous. Even beggars " can bear no 
*' brother near the throne." Inflamed with jealousy, he 
silently moved towards his rival, by the sound of whose 
voice, which was then sending forth some of its most af- 
fecting, and purse-drawing strains, he was enabled to deter- 
mine whetlier his arm was within reach of the head of his 
competitor, which circumstance, having v/ith due nicety 
ascertained, he clenched his fist, which in weight, size, and 
firmness, was not much surpassed by the hard and ponde- 
rous paw of a full grown tiger, and with all the force of 
that propulsion, which a formidable set of muscles afforded, 
he felled his rival to the ground, and not knowing that he 
was fallen, discharged many other blows, which only serv- 
ed to disturb the tranquillity of the air. The recumbent 
hero, whose head was framed for enterprizes of this nature, 
soon recov^ered from the assault, and, after many unavailing 
efforts in the dark, at length succeeded in opening one of 
the vessels of the broad nose of his brawny assailant, whose 
blood, enriched by good living, streamed out most copious- 
ly. In this condition we saw these orbless combatants, 
who were speedily separated from each other. Some of the 
crowd were endeavouring to form a treaty of pacification 
between them ; whether they succeeded I know not, for we 
were obliged to leave the bridge of batde, before these im- 
portant points were arranged, to join a pleasant party at 
Mons, St. J 's, an opulent banker at Gacn, to whom I 



THE STR'ANGER IN FRANCE., 



BAYEUX. liNNlJI 



bad letters of introduction from Mons. R- , the banker 

of Paris. 

After spending the short time, during which I was de- 
tained at Caen, very pleasantly, I resumed my seat in the 
diligence for Cherbourg, in which I found a very agreea- 
ble woman, her two daughters, two canary birds, a cat, 
and her kitten, who were, 1 found, to be my companions 
all the way. 

After we left Caen, the roads became very bad. Our 
ponderous machine, frequently rolled from one side to 
the other, and with many alarming creakings, threaten- 
ed us with a htavy and perilous overthrow. At length 
we arrived at Bayeux, where we dined, at the house of a 
friend of my fair fellow traveller, to which she invited me 
with a tone of welcome, and good wishes, which overpow- 
ered all resistance. We sat down to an excellent dinner, 
at which was produced the usual favourite French dish of 
cold turbot, and raw artichokes. After our repast, a fine 
young woman, the daughter of the lady of the house, in a 
very obliging but rather grave manner, poured out a tumbler 
full of some, delicious potent liqueur, which, to my no 
small surprise, she presented me with ; upon my only tast- 
ing it, and returning it, she appeared to be equally surprised 
and confused. Her mother, observing our mutual embar- 
rassment, informed me, that in France it was understood 
that the English were troubled with the ennui, or tristessc 
de coeur, and that they drank large draughts of wine and 
spirits to expel the gloomy malady. I softened this opinioti 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 25s 

REMEDY FOR ENNUI AGRICULTURAL SYSTEM. 

of our common character, as well as I could, for, I fear, 
without offering considerably outrage to truth, 1 could not 
■wholly have denied it. 

After dinner, we walked to the cathedral, which is si 
noble gothic pile, ancl, upon our return, found the diligence 
in waiting for us. My companions were attended to the 
door of the carriage by their hospitable friends, between 
whom several kisses were interchanged. J took an oppor- 
tunity, just before i mounted the step, of stealing one of 
these tokens of regard from the fair young damsel who had 
so courteously offered me the liqueur, at the same time tell- 
ing her, that in England, a kiss was always considered as 
the best remedy for the tristesse de cosur. — Away trotted 
our little Norman steeds ; and, notwithstanding they had 
come all the way from Caen, they soon carried us over 
the hills on this side of Bayeux. The eye communicated 
delight to the heart, whilst it contemplated the vast extent 
of corn fields, whch in this fertile province, undulated on 
all sides of us, in waves of yellow exuberance, over which, 
embosomed in trees, at short distances, peeped the peaceful 
and picturesque abode of the prosperous cottage farmer. 
The prospect afforded an impressive contrast to the impo- 
litic agricultural system, which has lately obtained in Eng- 
land, by which cottage farms are consolidated into ample 
domains of monopoly, and a baneful preference is given in 
favour of the rearing of cattle, to the vital and bountiful 
labours of the plough. A celebrated writer, who well 
knew in what the real wealth of a nation consisted, has 
observed, that he who could make two ears of corn grow 
upon a spot of ground, where only one grew before. 



254 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 



NORMAN ROADS ST. LO. 



would deserve better of mankind than the whole race of 
politicians. 

The high roads of Normandy are unnecessarily broad ; 
fcence considerable portions of land remain uncultivated. 
A spacious road, like every thing which is vast, excites an 
impression of grandeur ; but in this prolific department, the 
facilities of travelling, and the dignity of the country, might 
be consulted with less waste. This prodigality is perhaps 
attributable to the highways in France havino; shared but 
little of its legislative attention ; and accommodation ap- 
pears to have been sought rather by a lavish allotment of 
space, than by a judicious formation, and frequent and 
thorough, repair. 

The inns along the road are very poor, although over 
the door of almost every little cottage is written in large 
characters, " Bon Cidre de Victoire." There are also no 
regular post-horses to be met with. The countrv, on all 
sides of us, was very mountainous and luxuriant, and 
much resembled the southern parts of Devonshire. About 
seven o'clock in the evenins: of the same day, we arrived at 
St. Lo, which is, without exception, the cleanest and most 
charming romantic little town, 1 saw in France. It is 
fortified, and stands upon the top of a mountain, at whose 
base is expanded a luxuriant scenery of woods and villages, 
through which the riviere de Ville winds in beautiful mean- 
ders. The inhabitants of this town appeared to be rich 
and genteel. In the evening I supped at the table d'hote, 
where there were several pleasant people. At this town 
we slept, and set off the next morning very early, for Va- 



THE STRANGEK IN FKANCE 255 



CHtRBOirHG. 



logne, where we dined ; and in the evening, after passing 
a considerable extent of rich madow land, and descending 
a very steep hill, the freshness of the sea air announced to 
us our near approach to Cherbourg, where, at the hotel 
d'Angleterre, I was soon afterwards landed. For m)- place 
and luggage to this town, I paid twent)-four livres. My 
cxpences upon the road were very reasonable. Here I had 
the good fortune to find a packet which intended to sail to 
England in two days, the master of which asked me only 
one guinea for my passage in the cabin, provisions included. 
However, thinking that the kitchen of a French vessel, 
miirht, if possible, be more uncleanly than the kitchen of a 
French inn, I resolved upon providing my own refreshments 
for the little voyage. 

Cherbourg is a poor and dirty town. After having 
heard so much of its costly works and fortifications for the 
protection of its harbour, my surprize was not little upon 
finding the place so miserable. It is defended by three 
great forts, which are erected upon rocks in the sea. The 
centre one is about three miles off from shore, and is garri- 
soned by 1200 men. At a distance, this fort looks like a 
vast floating battery. Upon a line with it, but divided by 
a distance sufRcient for the admission of shipping, com- 
mences the celebrated, stupendous wall, which has been, 
erected since the failure of the cones. It is just visible at 
low water. This surprizing work is six miles in length, 
and three hundred French feet in breadth, and is composed 
of massy stones and masonry, v/hich have been sunk for the 
purpose, and which are now cemented by sea weed, their 
own weight and cohesion, into one immense mass of rock. 



g56 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



CHERBOURG ROMANTIC COUNTRY SCENE 



Upon this wall a chain of forts is intended to be erected, as 
soon as the finances of government will admit of it. The 
expenses which have already been incurred, in constructing 
this wonderful fabric, have, it is said, exceeded two millions 
sterling. These costly protective barriers can only be con- 
sidered as so many monuments, erected by the French to 
the superior genius and prowess of the British navy. 

Whilst I was waiting for the packet's sailing, I received 

great civilities from Mons, C , the banker and American 

Consul at Cherbourg, to whom I had letters from Mons. 

R . I rode, the second evening after my arrival, to his 

country house, which was about nine miles from the town. 

Our road to it lay over a prolific and mountainous country. 

From a high point of land, as we passed along, we saw the 

islands of Guernsey, Jersey and Alderney, which made a 

beautiful appearance upon the sea. Upon our return, by 

another road, I was much pleased with a group of little 

cottao^es, which were embosomed in a beautiful wood- 
en ^ ^ 

through which there was an opening to the sea, which the 
sinking sun had then overspread with the richest lustre. 



As we entered this scene of rustic repose, the angelus bell 
of the little village church rang ; and a short time afterwards, 
as we approached it, a number of villagers came out from 
the porch, with their mass-books in their hands, their 
countenances beaming with happiness, and illuminated by 
the sinking sun, which shone full upon them. The charms 
of this simple scene arrested our progress for a short time. 
Under some spreading limes, upon a sloping lawn, the 
cheerful cottagers closed the evening with dancing to the 



tHE StRANGlSil IN FHANCE. 057 



EXCELLENCY OF NOKMAN HORSES. 

sounds of one of the sweetest flagelets I ever heard, which 
was alternately played by several performers, who reheved 
each other. In FrancCj every man is a musician. Gold» 
smith's charming picture of his Auburn, in its happieif 
times, recurred to me : 

*' When toil remittinj^, lends its turn to play, 

** And ail the village train, from labour free, 

*' Led up their sports beneath the S])reading tree." 

The cross roads of France are very bad ; but, to mf 
surprise, although w^e never could have had a worse speci- 
men of them than what this excursion presented to us, yet 
the Norman hunter upon which I was mounted, carried me 
over the deepest ruts, and abrupt hillocks, without showing 
the least symtom of infirmity which so much prevails 
amonsfst his brethren of the Devonshire breed. The Nor- 
man horses are reniarkable for lifting their feet high, and 
the safety and ease with which they carry their riders. 

in the morning of the day in which the packet was to ^ail, 
a favourable breeze sprung up ; and, after undergoing the 
usual search of the revenue officers, in the execution of 
T^hich they behaved with much civility, I embarked, and 
h- - adieu to continental ground. The vessel had the ap- 
pearance of being freighted with hot bread, with which the 
deck was covered from one end to the other. This im^ 
mense collection of smoking loaves was intended for the 
supply of six men, and one woman, during a passage 
■^^hich we expected to accomplish in thirty hours^ ot 
less ! 

I i 



^5S 'ME STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

SEA-SICKNESS — BRITISH AND FRENCH SAILORS ENGLAND. 

The faithful associate of our young captain, to whom 
she had just been married, either from motives of fondness 
or distrust, resolved upon sharing with him the perils of 
the ocean. 

The sea-sufferings of this constant creature, and the re- 
signation with which she endured them, sufficiently mani- 
fested the strength of her affections ; for she was obliged to 
keep below all the time, and could afford but very little 
assistance in reducing the prodigious depot of bread which 
•we had on board* 

Credulous mariners describe a species of the fair sex^ 
(I believe the only one) who appear to much advantage upon 
the briny wave ; but the nature of our commander's lady 
not happening to be amphibious, she gave such unequivo-* 
cal proofs of being out of her proper element, that my 
tvishes for shore increased upon me every minnte. 

During our passage^ I could not help contrasting the 
habits of the English with the French sailors. The British 
tar thinks his allowance of salt beef scarcely digestible with^ 
out a copious libation of ardent spiritSj whilst the Gallic 
mariner is satisfied with a little meagre soup, an immode- 
rate share of bread, and a beverage of water, poor cider, or 
spiritless wine. 

At length, after a passage of a day and a night, in 
which we experienced the vicissitudes of a stiff breeze, and 
a dead calm, we beheld 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE, gog 



" ....That pale, that white-facM shore, 

** Whose foot spurns back the ocean's roaring tides, 
** And coops from other lands her islanders 3— 
**That water-walled bulwark, still secure 
** And confident from foreign purposes." 

After passing another tedious night on board, owing to 
our being becalmed within the Needles, I stepped upon 
the same landing-stone from which I first embarked for a 
country, where, in the centre of proscriptions, instability 
and desolation, those arts which are said to flourish only in 
regions of repose, have, by their vigour and unrivalled 
bloom, excited the wonder and admiration of surrounding 
nations ; where Peace, by her sudden and cherished re- 
appearance, is calling forth all the virtues from their hiding 
places, to aid in effacing the corroding stains of a barbarous 
revolution, and in restoring the moral and social character 
to its pristine polish^ rank and estimation. 



560 THE STKANGEn IN FttAKCE. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



Ti 



HE fact seems at first singular. Two of the greatest 
nations under Heaven, whose shores almost touch, and, if 
ancient tales be true, were once unsevered, call the natives 
of each other, foreigners. 

Jealous}', competition, and consequent warfare, have, 
for ages, produced an artificial distance and separation, 
much wider, and more impassable, tiiat nature ever intend- 
ed, by the division which she has framed ; hence, whilst the 
unassisted eye of the Islander, can, from his own shores, 
■with " unwet feet," behold the natural barrier of his con- 
tinental neighbour, he knows but little more of bis real 
character and habits, than of those beings who are more 
distantly removed from him, by many degrees of the great 
circle. 

The events which have happened in France for the last 
eleven years, have rendered this separation more severe, and 
during that long and gloom)" interval, have wholly changed 
the national character. Those who once occupied the 
higher class in the ascending scale of society, and who have 
survived the revolution without leaving their country, are no 
longrer able to display the taste and munificence which once 
distinguished them. In the capital, those who formerly 
were accustomed to have their court-yards nightl}^ filled 
^\n\h carriages, and their stair-cases lined with lucqueys, arf 



4'HE STRANGER IN FRANCE. £61 

GtxNERAL REMARKS. 

now scarcely able to occupy one third of their noble abodes. 
They cannot even enjoy the common observances of friend- 
ship and hospitality, without pausing, and resorting to 
calculation. A new race of beings called the ** noveaux 
enricnes,** whose services have been chiefly auxiliary to the 
war, at present absorb the visible wealth of the nation. 
Amongst them are many respectable persons. The lower 
orders of the people have been tauo;ht by restless visionaries, 
to consider the destinations of Providence, which had be- 
fore, by an imperceptible gradation of social colouring, uni- 
ted the russet brown to the magisterial purple, as usurpa- 
tions over those natural rights which have been impressed 
"Without illustration, and magnified by a mischievous mys- 
tery. In the fierce pursuit ot these imaginary immunities, 
which they had been taught to believe had been long with- 
held, they abruptly renounced all deference and decorum, 
as .per.jous indications of the fallacy of their indefinable 
pretensions, and were not a little encouraged by the disas- 
trous desertion of their superiors, who fled at the first 
alarm. In short,. the revolution has, in general, made the 
higher orders poor and dispirited, and the lower, barbarous 
and insolent, whilst a third class has sprung up, with the 
silence and suddenness of an exhalation, higher than both. 
Without partlclpatmg in the original character of either, in 
which the principles of computation, and the vanity of 
wealth, are at awkward variance. 

Until lately, the ancient French and the modern French 
were antipodes, but they are now converging under a go- 
yernment, which, in point of security, and even of mildness. 



^m THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



GENIiRAL HEMARKS 



has no resemblance, since the first departure from the an* 
cient establishments. The French, like the hbertine son^ 
after having plunged in riot and excesses, subdued by 
wretchedness, are returning to order and civilization. Un- 
happy people, their tears have almost washed away their 
offences — they have suffered to their heart's core. Who 
will not pity them to see their change, and hear their tales 
of misery ? Yet strange to relate, in the midst of their sighs 
and sufferings, they recount wita enthusiasm, the exploits 
of those very men, whose heroic ambition has trampled up- 
on their best hopes, and proudest prosperity. Dazzled by 
the brilliancy of the spreading flame, they forget that their 
own abode is involved in its desolation, and augments the 
gloomy grandeur oi'the scene. To this cause may perhaps 
be traced that singular union of grief and gaiety, which 
affords rather an impressive contrast to the more solemn 
consistency of English sadness. The terrible experiment 
which they have tried, has throughout, presented a ferocious 
contest for power, which has only served to deteriorate their 
condition, sap their vigour, and render them too feeble either 
to continue the contest, or to reach the frontier of their for- 
ftier character. In this condition they have been found by 
^, man, who, with the precedent of history in one hand, and 
the sabre in the other, has, unstained with the crimes of 
Cromwell, possessed himself of the sovereignty; and, like 
Augustus, without the propensities which shaded his early 
life, preserved the 7)ame of a republic, whilst he well knows 
that a decisive and irresistible authority can alone re-unite a 
people so vast and distracted ; who, in the pursuit of a fatal 
phantom, have been inured to change, and long alienated 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. «3(55 



GENERAL RENfARKS. 



from subordination. I would not wish such a governmentf 
to be perpetual, but if it be conducted with wisdom and 
justiccj I will not hesitate to declare, that 1 think it will 
ultimately prove as favourable to the happiness, as it has 
been propitious to the glory of the French. A govern- 
ment which breathes a martial spirit under a thin appear- 
ance of civil polity, presents but a barren subject to the 
consideration of the inquirer. When the sabre is changed 
into the sceptre, the science of legislation is snort, simple, 
and decisive* Its energies are neither entangled in abstract 
distinctions, nor much impeded by the accustomed delays 
of deliberation. 

From the magnitude of the present ruling establishment 
ill France, and the judicious distribution of its powers and 
confidence, the physical strength can scarcely be said to re- 
side in the governed, 

A great portion of the population participates in the 
character of the government. The bayonet is perpetually 
Hashing before the eye. The remark may appear a little 
ludicrous^ but in the capital, almost every man who is not 
near sighted, is a soldier, and every soldier of the republic 
considers himself as a subordinate minister of state. In 
short, the whole political fabric, is a refined system of 
knight's service. 

Seven centuries are rolled back, and from the gloon* 
of time behold the crested spirit of the Norman hero ad- 
Tance, " with beaver up," and nod his sable plumes, m 
grim approval of the novel, gay, and gaudy feodality. 



204 tub: STRANGEU in FRANCE. 



GENERAL, REMARKS. 



If such an expectation may be entertained^ that time will 
replace the ancient family on the throne, 1 am far from 
believing that it can offer much consolation to the illustrious 
wanderer, who as yet, has only tasted of the name of sove- 
reignty. U the old royalty is ever restored, it is my opin- 
ion, and I offer it with becoming deterence, that, from 
personal hatred to the present titular monarch, and the 
dread of retaliation by a lineal revival of monarchy, the 
crown will be placed upon the brows of one of thr co//^- 
terai branches of the expatriated family. The Prince de 
Conde is the only member of that august house, of whom 
the i rench sp -ak with esteem and approbation. 

The treasury of the French, is, as may be expected, not 
overflowing, but its resources must speedily become ample. 
The necessities of the state, or rather the peculations of its 
former factious leaders, addressed themselves immediately to 
the purses of the people, by a summary process completely 
predatory. Circuitous exaction, has been, till lately, long 
discarded. The present rulers have not yet had sufficient 
time to digest and perfect a financial system, by which the 
establishments of the country may be supported by indirect, 
and unoffending taxation. Wisdom and genius must long 
and ardently labour, before the ruins and rubbish of the rev- 
olution can be removed. Every effort hitherto made to 
raise the deciduous credit of the republic has been masterly, 
and forcibly bespeaks the public hope and confidence in 
favour of every future measure. 

The armies of the republic are immense ; they have 
hitherto been paid, and maintained by the countries which 



ttt£ STRANGER IN FllANCfi. ^g^ 



GENERAL REMAKtCS. 

they hive sub lued ; their exigencies, unless they are employe 
ed, will in future, form an embarrassing subject of consid* 
eration in the approaching system of finance. This mighty 
body of men, who are very moderately paid, are united by 
the remembrance of their gloryj and the proud consideration 
that they constitute a powerful part of the government ; aa 
impression which every French soldier cherishes. They 
also derive some pride, even from their discipline : a mili- 
tary delinquent is not subject to ignoble punishment ; if he 
offend, he suffers as a soldier. Imprisonment, or death, 
alone displaces him from the ranks. He is not cut down 
fainting, and covered with the ignominious wounds of the 
dissecting scourge, and sent to languish in the reeking wards 
of hospitals. 

In reviewing the present condition of France, the liberal 
mind will contemplate many events with pleasure, and will 
Stuspend its final judgment, until wisdom and genius shall 
repose from their labours, and shall proclaim to the ytople^ 
** behold the work is done.'* 

It has been observed, that in reviewing the late war^ 
two of the precepts of the celebrated author of " The 
Prince," will hereafter be enshrined in the judgements of 
politicians, and will be as closely adhered to, as they have 
been boldly disregarded by that great man, who, till lately^ 
has long presided over the British councils. 

Machiavel has asserted, that no country ougrht to declare 
war with a nation, which at the time, is in a state of internal 

K k 



256 THE stranger" IN FRANCE. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Gommotion ; and that, in the prosecution of a war, the refu- 
gees of a beUigerent power, ought not to be confidentially 
trusted by the opposite nation which receives them. Upon 
violating the former, those heterogeneous parties, which, if 
left to themselves, will always embarrass the operations of 
their government, become united by a common cause ; and, 
by offending against the latter clause of this cautionary code, 
a perilous confidence is placed in the triumph of gratitude 
and private pique, over that great love which nature plants 
and warmly cherishes, in the breast of every man, for his 
country* 

In extenuation of a departure from these political 
maxims, it may be urged, that the French excited the 
war, and that in the pursuit of it, they displayed a compound 
spirit, which Machiavel might well think problematical, for 
whilst that country never averted its eye from the common 
enemy, it never ceased to groan under the inflictions of un- 
remitting factions. 

Rather less can be said in palliation of the fatal con«* 
fidence, which was placed by the English government in 
some of the French emigrants* 

I have mentioned these tmhappy people in the aggregate^ 
with the respect which 1 think they deserve. To be pro- 
tected, and not to betray, was all that could, in fairness 
and with safety, be expected from them ; it was hazarding 
too much to put swords in their hands, and send them i& 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE 2f)7 



GENERAL REMARKS 



their own shores to plunge them in the breasts of their own 
countrymen : in such an enterprise 

« The native hue of resolution 

** Is sicklied o'er with the pale cast of thought." 

The brave have not frequently wept over such a victim as 
^ombrieuU 

Whether the experiment of repelling those machinations 
which warred against all established order, and all sanc- 
tioned uaage, by a novel and unnatural opposition, is attri- 
butable to any other cause, than that of a misjudging prin- 
ciple, must be decided by Him, whose mighty hand sus- 
pended the balance of the battle, and whose eye, can, at a 
glance, pierce through the labyrinth of human obLquity, 
however compact, shaded, or concealed. 

If the late minister is chargeable with a prolongation 
of the war, if he is responsible for having misplaced his 
confidence, and if brave men have perished by the fatal 
delusion, he will find some, if not ample consolation, in 
reflecting, that, by his vigilance and vigour, he has saved 
his country fiom the miseries of a revolutionary frenzy, 
which has rendered even our enemies, the objects of our 
sympathy and compassion. 

Such is the narrowness of our nature, that we know 
not how adequately to appreciate our preservation from an 
intercepted evil : it is indistipctly seen, like a distant object. 
The calamity must touch before its powers and magnitude 
can be estimated. The flames of the neighbouring pilcj 



QQS THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

GENE'AL REMAKKS. 

must stop at our very doors, before our gratitude becomes 
animated with its highest energies^ 

If Providence were to unfold to us all the horrors 
which we have escaped ; — if all the blood which would 
have followed the assassin's dao-orer, were to roll in reekuisc 
Streams before us ;— if the full di play of irreligion, flight, 
massacre, confiscation, imprisonment, conflagration and 
famine, which would have graced a revolutionary triumph in 
these realms, were to be unbarred to our view, how should 
we recoil, horror struck, from the ghastly spectacle 1 With 
what emotions of admiration and esteem, should we bend 
before the man, whose illumined mind and dignified resolu- 
tion, protected us from such fell perdition, and confined the 
rava<3-es of the *' bellowing storm" within its own barrier. 

The dazzling and perilous claims of the Rights of Man 
in the abstract, have had a long and ample discussion before 
the sanguinary tribunals of another country ; and the loud 
decree of an indignant and insulted world has pronounced 
their eternal doom. Other contests may arise ; but the 
powers of a pro[)het are not necessary to assert, that such 
rights will form no part of their provocation. 

In France, I was repeatedly asked my opinion of the 
probable stability of the peace. The question was always 
addressed in this rather curious shape : " Thank God, we 
*' have peace ! Tf^i/l your country let us enjoy if ?* — My 
*« answer was, ** You may be assured of it ; for it will 
^« not cease to be prepared for war." 



THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 



269 



GENERAL RtMARKS. 



Alas i the restless spirit of ambition seldom lon^ delio-hts 
in repose. The peaceful virtues, under whose influence 
Nations flourish and mankind rejoice, possess no lasting cap* 
tivations for the Hero. The draught of conquest maddens 
his brain, and excites an insatiable thirst for fVesh atchieve- 
ments ; — He 

** Looks into the clouds, scorning the base degrees 
*♦ By which he did ascend." 

May that extraordinary Being in whose hands the fate of 
millions is deposited, reverse the gloomy picture, and re- 
store to a country, long wasted by revolutions and warfare, 
and languishing in the midst of the monuments of her a]o- 
1-y, the benign blessings of enduring tranquillity. But if 
this hope prove fruitless, if all the countiies of continental 
Europe are destined to be compressed into one empire, if 
their devoted princes are doomed to adorn the triumphs of 
the Chief of that mighty republic, uhich now towers above 
the surrounding nations of the earth, like the pyramid of 
the desert, what have we to fear even though the ocean 
•which divides us should become the soiditm* element ? 

When an enlightened Frenchman is asked what he 
thinks of his government, his answer is, "We want re- 
pose.** For this alone, a stranger to the recent occurren- 
ces of the world, would think he had toiled, just as valetu- 
dinarians take exercise for the purpose of securing sleep. 
Even those who have profited of eleven years of desolation, 
are ready to acknowledge that war is not pastime, and that 
a familiarity with its horrors does not lessen them. The 



270 THE STRANGER IN FRANCE. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

\ 

soldier, drooping under the weight of booty, pants for the 
refreshing shades of his native village, and for the hour 
which is to restore him to his alienated family. 

I am satisfied, that both in France and England, one 
desire pervades all classes of people, that two nations, so 
brave, and so worthy of reciprocal esteem, may at last 
grow wise and virtuous enough to abstain from those ebul- 
litions of furious hostility, which have stamed so many 
centuries with blood. 

Peace is the gem with which Europe has embellished her 
fair but palpitating bosom ; and may disappointment and 
dishonour be the lot of that ambitious and impolitic being, 
who endeavours or who wishes to pluck it from her ! 




GEORGE MILL, 

A^o . 1 04 , Baltimore Street^ 
BALTIMORE ; 

HAS A'LWAYS ON HAND, A LARGE AND GEN- 
ERAL ASSORTMENT OF 

STATIONARY: viz. 



JL^ ARGE Drawing and Writing Paper, of various kinds* 

1 hick and thin Folio Post. 

Best Letter Paper, thick and thin, plain and Vellum Hot- 
pressed ; Gilt and Mourning. 

Foolscap Paper, No. 1, 2, 3, and 4. 

Port Paper, Superfine and second class. 

Blotting, Pissue, and Cop3'--press Paper. 

Letter Files and Laces, Card Racks, Leaden and Marble 
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Merchants* Account Books ready made, or made up to any 
pattern. 

Ledgers, single or double Ruled for L.S.D. or dollars and 
cents, of imperial, super-royal, or smaller sized paper, 
with or without cross lines. 

Journals, 



Of Imperial, Super-royal, 
Royal, Medium, Demy, 
and Foolscap, cross rui'd 
or plain. 



Day Books, 

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Account Current Books, 

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Receipt and Bank Books. 

Bills of Lading Books. 

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Bank Check Books, of various sizes, and for the different 

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Cyphering and Copy Book?, of different shapes and sizes. 
Best Dutch Quills, No. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. 
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Black and Red Ink powder, and Liquid Ink, 
J^nknives and Desk knives, a large and elegant assortment* 



G.miVs CATALOGUE OF STATIOTsfAUY* 

Superfine lied and Black Sealing Wax. 

Best Vermillion and Coloured Wafers, 

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Ivory Paper Knives and Folders. 

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Tablets of A ;s-skin in morocco, and money Purses. 

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The Map of the World, from a new Plate on Mercator's 
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Susquehanna Canal, &c, &c* 



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